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How close is too close for scope mounting?

I'll add, that you could easily double that clearance with a shim in both rings. Or just in the front one if adjustment allows. jd
 
slm9s said:
That spacing is my goal.

+1

The closer you get the scope to the bore of the rifle, the more elevation adjustment your scope will have remaining for shooting long range after zeroing the rifle. All of my hunting rifles have scopes mounted extremely close to the barrel. The only disadvantage to mountung them that close is that if you want to put a scope cap on the front, you will have to shave the cap so it can slide on the objective bell. Dont want the scope cap rubber touching the barrel either.
 
I’d rather be able to close my eyes and settle in behind the rifle in a most comfortable shooting position, and then when eyes open, already be looking dead centered through the middle of the scope at my target. Provided adequate clearance, wherever that places the objective bell relative to the barrel will do nicely.
 
OleFreak said:
I’d rather be able to close my eyes and settle in behind the rifle in a most comfortable shooting position, and then when eyes open, already be looking dead centered through the middle of the scope at my target. Provided adequate clearance, wherever that places the objective bell relative to the barrel will do nicely.

Target rifles are different. I think scopes should be mounted higher on them when shooting from a bench.

For hunting rifles, i think they should be low because it provides a quicker sight picture when shouldering the rifle. Especially when shooting off hand.
 
I ended up putting the next higher rings on. I feel much better now and cheek weld is still good. I can put my scope coat on now. Thanks for the replies.
 
Just this observation in case a newer guy reads this.

Shimming only the front will induce a bind in scope alignment. It will also reduce the amount of vertical adj. Simple physics. I can't see how maybe a .010" or so shim, which would be imo beyond a good contact fit for the lower half of the scope tube would help enough to make any difference.

When shimming, you reduce the ID of the ring, so they would be less than 1.000 dia/.500 radius. By reducing the radius, then there will be only two points tangent until the tube is crushed enough to fit = BAD. This is what many are working so diligently to avoid with lapping or using the gimbal principle inserts. Not a good practice with the ring or shimming the base up from the bottom - same principle.
 
IMO, proper scope height is dictated by the stock design more than anything. Raised or Monte Carlo style cheek pieces raise where your eye is, and in doing so, raises where the scope needs to be for proper fit. When it fits..it's right. A properly mounted scope is just as fast as open sights.--Mike
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
IMO, proper scope height is dictated by the stock design more than anything. Raised or Monte Carlo style cheek pieces raise where your eye is, and in doing so, raises where the scope needs to be for proper fit. When it fits..it's right. A properly mounted scope is just as fast as open sights.--Mike

Well said
 
It looks optimal to me.

*As Long As Your Stock Allows You To See Through It Properly. But that's another parameter altogether that you didn't ask about.
 

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