Honing a neck sizing die

[30xs]

I am in the process of building a 6BR on a remingotn 700 action. I am chambering it with a .272 neck. I was wondering what diameter the die should be honed to. I will be using Lapua brass with no turning and Berger 105 VLD bullets. I do not have brass at this time to see what my loaded diameter is so I figured I'd ask around. Thanks in advance. Tim

 

[tightneck]

I personally don't want to get stuck with only one neck tension possibility. I use bushing style dies and full length size every time. A die that is tailored to the chamber will give you minimal sizing, better accuracy and longer case life. For the 6BR, its hard to get a better die than the ones offered by Harrell's precision. You send them a couple fired cases and get a die that matches your chamber. You can get Wilson or Redding bushings to use in the die and vary the neck tension to suit. The proper bushing size,s) can be determined by measuring the outside neck diameter with the bullet or bullets you plan to shoot seated in the case. Then take .002" or .003" off that dimension to get the bushing size. As cases are work hardened,fired several times), they become less elastic and the original bushing size used won't hold the bullet as tight. Thats the reason that I like to get several bushings. Assuming a loaded neck measuring .270" for example, I like to have bushings measuring .266", .267" and .268".

 

[30xs]

The only reason that I am interested in this is that it is supposed to keep the donuts from forming in the brass. Bushing dies do not size all the way to the shoulder junction. I read this on this site and was wanting to get it right the first time. I understand I'd be limited to one tension, but I could just purchase another neck die to go with the one I have, since I already have this one. Would I be better off selling this one and purchasing a bushing dies set?

 

[tightneck]

Donuts are not caused by dies or die bushings. They are caused by the flow of brass forward from the shoulder into the neck. They can also be created by improper neck turning. Since your not going to be turning your necks, you won't have to worry about it too much. I would suggest to you that the very best sizing die is the one that matches your chamber. Factory dies simply can't accommodate ever chamber since there are so many different reamer prints out there. A custom die can be made by many gunsmiths as well as die makers to minimally size your cases while keeping them very straight. Oversizing brass causes the brass to stretch and flow more than it should and can create donuts at the neck shoulder junction and also kills cases much quicker. Most of the gunsmiths out there making custom dies are pretty proud of them, so they get pretty pricey. The Harrell brothers make several different size dies in the BR and PPC configurations. They match your fired cases to the right die and for a cool $70, you have a nicely fitted die. I have a couple of them and am very happy with them, haven't heard anyone else complain about them either.

 

[30xs]

Will the Harrell's work in a standard press like a rockchucker? Or, are they designed for an arbor press? I was just trying to get my dies on the way in anticipation for the arrival of my rifle. I don't mean to offend you by questioning your answers just trying to better understand, picking your brain so to speak. By the way, I do not have an arbor press if this helps in die selection.

 

[tightneck]

The Harrell's die's are standard 7/8X14 threaded dies. No problem with the questions. If these forums had been around when I was starting to embark on the accuracy journey, I'd have a whole lot more money right now. Well thats probably not true...but I might have another BAT action. The forums are a great place for sharing ideas and I've learned a TON of stuff from the other members here as well as other sites.

 

[Forum Boss]

Personally, I'm a big fan of non-bushing honed-neck FL dies. You get very straight necks with low run-out, with a crisp neck-shoulder junction, with no build-up of brass under the bushing which CAN,with time), affect neck tension. IF,big IF) the die maker does its job right, a honed die is a simple, elegant solution. For a no-turn 6BR shooting Berger 105s, I'd try a Forster honed to .267".

But, as others have noted, if you want to play around with tension, a Harrell's bushing die is a very good choice.

See:

 

[30xs]

So the Harrel's is a bushing die, correct? Is it better to FL size every time or neck size? I can see where the harrels being .002 thousands smaller than the chamber would be less stressful on the brass and does sound good. I may hang on to the Forester dies set though, can always send it off to be honed after I determine the best tension for my gun.

 

[Clark]

I had my Forster 6mmBR die honed out by Forster from .259" factory to .265" my choice.

 

[Preacher]

So the Harrel's is a bushing die, correct? Is it better to FL size every time or neck size? I can see where the harrels being .002 thousands smaller than the chamber would be less stressful on the brass and does sound good.
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Yes the Harrells die is a bushing die, but it is also a full length die and works very well.

 

[dennisinaz]

I have both types and I really like the honed out full length die. Mine are from Redding but they won't let you decide what to hone them to. They are a lot smarter than any of us reloaders and will tell you that. They require a couple of fired pieces of brass and will then hone the die to what THEY think is acceptable. I have a 300 H&H and a 30-06 and both cut my runnout to .001 or less. A bushing die is for BR and only sizes part of the neck. I think some rounds prefer the whole neck to be sized and this is where the honed dies are preferable. Redding charged me $20.