Homemade ejector tool helps to stop throwing cases….

[VaniB]

…..into the next county. lol.

Yes, a Brownell’s tool is available, but if you are new to the sport and/or enjoy building stuff like I do, this can save you $40 or more from buying those commercial versions, while also keeping you hidden in your garage or shop a little longer. ( and away from house chores). Some newer shooters might find this thread enlightening as they might not have been aware of the option of shortening the Remington 700 ejector spring inside the bolt about 1/8” or so to prevent fired cases from being thrown and getting lost. I built this tool for my Remington 221 fireball which allows my costly Lapua cases to now fall out on the side of my rifle and onto the bench….. as long as I do my part and pull the bolt out slowly.



Here’s a few photos of the tool I made. I advise the newbies to check into youtube to get an understanding of the Remington 700 bolt, ejector plunger, spring, and retainer pin. Keep in mind that with any tool, the ejector is still under tension and you need to safeguard against it popping out and getting lost. BTW, in a couple of my photos you will see a brass case mounted at the bottom. You can disregard it; It serves as a snug fitting brass peg to slip into an open-empty bolt, but you DON’T need to remove the firing pin & shroud to work on a Rem 700 bolt ejector.

Mods; Yes I checked about putting this in the "projects & questions" forum. But those scientists there are discussing serious gunsmithing and machining topics. (..... and NOT about mousetraps like this. lol )

 

[jepp2]

might not have been aware of the option of shortening the Remington 700 ejector spring inside the bolt

You are actually better off to replace the stock spring with a lighter force spring. I did buy the tool, but before that I just got the wife to hold a pin punch to keep everything in place when I drifted the roll pin back in place.

But you get high marks for your creativity!!

 

[TIMO]

I made one from a BFA, use a cutoff case head to fit the bolt and compress the ejector. Also made an adapter the work with the AR15 bolt.
Tim

 

[ridgeway]

I simply hold my finger on front of bolt. Never had one get away...

 

[jdh47]

There's a lot of ways to skin the cat. Some more complicated than others.

 

[6ShotsOr5?]

I made one from a BFA, use a cutoff case head to fit the bolt and compress the ejector. Also made an adapter the work with the AR15 bolt.
Tim

Okay, I’ll ask, what is your abbreviation BFA? Bolt Fudgin’ Apparatus?

 

[rockrat]

Blank Firing Adapter

What size is the punch for the retaining pin for the ejector?

 

[TIMO]

I simply hold my finger on front of bolt. Never had one get away...

Sir,
BFA is short for Blank Firing Adapter, it was used on the M16A2. A leftover from my time in the Army.
I hope that helps.
Tim
Tim

 

[TIMO]

Can't remember, maybe 1/16" punch.

 

[bobm]

...a 1/16" punch will do the job OK. An .080 #46 drill shank has a slip fit of about .003

 

[XTR]

I just stick an empty case in the extractor to hold the ejector down and drive out the pin, then take Turns off of the spring till it works like i want.

 

[VaniB]

I just stick an empty case in the extractor to hold the ejector down and drive out the pin, then take Turns off of the spring till it works like i want.

I simply hold my finger on front of bolt. Never had one get away...

There's a lot of ways to skin the cat. Some more complicated than others.

Silly me! How did I ever forget that I use to do this job like some of you guys. Yes, I did it without any special Brownell/Sinclair ejector tool that have been bought by the thousands. I concede that I'm still just as cheap today, and so I finally made a tool out of scrap thread-rod and wing nuts. But, I was always kind of funny about wanting to have the right tools for an easier job.

You know, I look at the names of those people that posted on this thread which I had opened thinking it might especially be useful to newbies. Not one of these guys names was among the 6 "likes" I got. But they sure did take the time to post a contrarian view. Ok, you guys win.

NO MORE TOOLS TO MAKE A JOB GO EASIER!! And here is the new reminder sign I just hung at my workbench so I don't ever forget that! ......lol

 

[Gun Smith]

I used to use a piece of brass rod in a lathe chuck, and compress it with the tailstock to remove the ejector cross pin. Same deal for removing the firing pin cross pin, putting the front end of the firing pin in the chuck. I made a gizmo to fit on the back of the bolt out of Aluminum to cradle the end of the bolt. It was slotted to allow the sear to slide back when compressing the spring, to allow driving out the cross pin. I think I got
the idea from one of the Brownells Kinks books if I recall.

 

[Just Say Moe]

I just love homemade engineering!

 

[Shooter13]

I made one from a BFA, use a cutoff case head to fit the bolt and compress the ejector. Also made an adapter the work with the AR15 bolt.
Tim

Well aren't you the talented one!!

 

[TIMO]

 

[Just Say Moe]

…..into the next county. lol.

Yes, a Brownell’s tool is available, but if you are new to the sport and/or enjoy building stuff like I do, this can save you $40 or more from buying those commercial versions, while also keeping you hidden in your garage or shop a little longer. ( and away from house chores). Some newer shooters might find this thread enlightening as they might not have been aware of the option of shortening the Remington 700 ejector spring inside the bolt about 1/8” or so to prevent fired cases from being thrown and getting lost. I built this tool for my Remington 221 fireball which allows my costly Lapua cases to now fall out on the side of my rifle and onto the bench….. as long as I do my part and pull the bolt out slowly.



Here’s a few photos of the tool I made. I advise the newbies to check into youtube to get an understanding of the Remington 700 bolt, ejector plunger, spring, and retainer pin. Keep in mind that with any tool, the ejector is still under tension and you need to safeguard against it popping out and getting lost. BTW, in a couple of my photos you will see a brass case mounted at the bottom. You can disregard it; It serves as a snug fitting brass peg to slip into an open-empty bolt, but you DON’T need to remove the firing pin & shroud to work on a Rem 700 bolt ejector.

Mods; Yes I checked about putting this in the "projects & questions" forum. But those scientists there are discussing serious gunsmithing and machining topics. (..... and NOT about mousetraps like this. lol )

Ingenious! You could name it "third hand."

 

[D Coots]

I used to use a piece of brass rod in a lathe chuck, and compress it with the tailstock to remove the ejector cross pin. Same deal for removing the firing pin cross pin, putting the front end of the firing pin in the chuck. I made a gizmo to fit on the back of the bolt out of Aluminum to cradle the end of the bolt. It was slotted to allow the sear to slide back when compressing the spring, to allow driving out the cross pin. I think I got
the idea from one of the Brownells Kinks books if I recall.

Price of lathes have increased too much in 2 years for me to use this method....

 

[hpshooter]

Don't quite so easily!! You used what was at hand (and free) to make the task easier for you and help prevent possible loss of the plunger and spring.

Don't think anyone was trying to start a "mine's bigger/better than yours" discussion or criticize your idea. I'd guess at least 10 viewers made mental notes of all the approaches that will be helpfull to them somewhere down the road.

 

[TIMO]

Well aren't you the talented one!!

Gone fishing
Tim