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home made annealer

  • Thread starter Thread starter RW
  • Start date Start date
I want to start to order the parts fo a home made case anneaker and i have a question as to the rpm of the drive motor as to 25 rpms to 64 rpms ? I was just wondering if with the variable speed control if it matters? I tried an AC motor with a variable speed control and it didn't have that much of a range of rpm's. I know it would be very beneficial to have the part number and the manufacturer. I know I can get these but it would be nice, Thank You,RW
 
A variable frequency drive will give you full control of your motor speed. They let you set the speed from a crawl all the way up to full speed
 
Here's a video to the one I built.. I'll get you some details on the motors and speed controllers once I get home. Mines all dc after the wall plug.

 
Fascinating ... could you send me the information as well?
I also would like the source that you get what appears to be UHMW for the case feeder? It looks to be 1 1/2 to 2 inch diameter and only about 3 inches in length with a slot milled in it, wi50shootr it looks like you have two slot milled in you feeder with one filled in. I wouldn't want to buy 36 inches of it! Any help would be greatly appreciated, RW
 
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I also would like the source that you get what appears to be UHMW for the case feeder? It looks to be 1 1/2 to 2 inch diameter and only about 3 inches in length with a slot milled in it, wi50shootr it looks like you have two slot milled in you feeder with one filled in. I wouldn't want to buy 36 inches of it! Any help would be greatly appreciated, RW
You can buy small pieces on Ebay. Matt
 
You can buy small pieces on Ebay. Matt
Yes, and you can take a forstner bit (in a drill press of course) and drill the slot; no need for a milling machine. It helps if you clamp a piece of wood on the outside of the drum because the center of the bit should be right on the outside edge of the cylindrical feed drum The temporary piece of wood fastened on the piece of plastic will keep the bit from wandering because you will be drilling half plastic and half wood. That technique will ensure a nice straight slot matched to the size of the case. I just used a really tight wrap of duct tape to hold the wood up against the plastic cylinder and I took a great deal of care to make sure the feed drum was exactly vertical before I started drilling.
 
Some details on the machine. I used a 30rpm gear reduced motor for the case feeder, the lower ratio helps with some extra torque when the cases are piled up. The small rollers run on a 60rpm gear reduced motor. Both motors are on speed controls independent of each other. I use a small electromagnetic solenoid and a limit switch tripped by the feed roller to kick the case out. To vary the time the case is in the flame you speed up or slow down the feed roller. All else falls in place afterwards. The different slots in the brown roller are for various case sizes. One thing I would do different is how the case is set on the rollers. The case falling can be kind of tricky to get set, it's a bit Rube Goldberg in my opinion. Id probably have the feeder be a gate and let the case roll onto the rollers in the next version. For now this one works pretty slick and I don't feel like building another. I bought the motors on Amazon, they vary from $10-15 each. Motor controllers are about $15 each. The two rollers where the case sits on are driven by a single motor and through some o-rings and sheaves the rollers are driven. Everything in the back is machined in aluminum plates and has bearings. I don't have any pictures of it.
 
I want to start to order the parts fo a home made case anneaker and I have a question as to the rpm of the drive motor as to 25 rpms to 64 rpms ? I was just wondering if with the variable speed control if it matters? I tried an AC motor with a variable speed control and it didn't have that much of a range of rpm's. I know it would be very beneficial to have the part number and the manufacturer. I know I can get these but it would be nice, Thank You,RW

The only thing I have to add for your consideration is the type of motor/speed controller you select. You have a choice between an AC or DC power system and either of will support a motor speed control. The issue, IMO, is how accurately the speed can be controlled. I believe you're better off with a frequency controlled motor because voltage/current controlled motors are, in my experience, more susceptible to linearity fluctuations in the resistive adjustment component(s) they rely upon.
 
RPM
I did the math like this. By design I lose 1/4 of the round pan roughly as the case drops in at 3oclock but rides/cooks at 6oclock. So the remaining 3/4 of the pan needs to turn 6sec or so. This means 1rpm in 8 sec. 60sec / 8 sec = 7.5rpm. Do the math for yours with the fastest cook time you think you need. You can always slow it down but cant speed it up.

This speed controller will let me slow the motor down to a complete stop. Its probably not good for the motor or the speed controller but its infinitely adjustable. Put a zip tie on the adjust knob to act as a needle and mark speeds. Its easier to see with a 4 in tail sticking off the knob.

Amazon
15 Rpm motor http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1KXV3Q/?tag=accuratescom-20
Speed Controller http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HTZSK5Q/?tag=accuratescom-20
Motor Mount http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHRIK2G/?tag=accuratescom-20

This cost around $30. I used a old power adapter from a cordless phone and just cut the tip off and screwed it into the speed board. Bought a straight wall cake pan and used an old aluminum street sign as the stand and base. It wont win a beauty pageant but it works great. I never built the auto case select as I figured I would spend more time building the selector than I would save over just feeding the unit by hand. I set a case on the shelf and let it drop in on its own.
 
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RPM
I did the math like this. By design I lose 1/4 of the round pan roughly as the case drops in at 3oclock but rides/cooks at 6oclock. So the remaining 3/4 of the pan needs to turn 6sec or so. This means 1rpm in 8 sec. 60sec / 8 sec = 7.5rpm. Do the math for yours with the fastest cook time you think you need. You can always slow it down but cant speed it up.....Snip.............
Each "Skip" design machine is slightly different, but typically the feed ramp holds the case at the 4:00 o'clock position and the stop rod is at the 5:30 o'clock position. When the case drops into the pan, it falls down to the stop rod immediately; much faster than the rotation speed of the pan. So, without actually trying to measure the amount of "lost" time, I would estimate that the loss is more like 8% or 9% of one 360 degree annealing pan cycle. Certainly less than the 25% loss in your calculation.

No matter really. If you Google "DIY annealing machine" and find the thread on the AR-15 forum, the recommended parts will give you plenty of adjustability. I run my pan at a setting between 32 (out of a hundred) and 24, depending on the caliber and neck thickness; turned cases take a bit less time.
 
Great project for the DIY'er. Looking at this practically for those with limited time and skills, the parts list on the thread and total project cost was $150. I think you can buy an Annealeez for $125 more and skip the work. Just good to understand you can have the same thing if you don't have the skills or time.
 
Great project for the DIY'er. Looking at this practically for those with limited time and skills, the parts list on the thread and total project cost was $150. I think you can buy an Annealeez for $125 more and skip the work. Just good to understand you can have the same thing if you don't have the skills or time.
I just looked at the video and it seemed it would be hard to control the temp with the Annealeez. I believe it would be much easier setting a time on the motor, like on the Skip. It also would be more repeatable. Matt
 

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