Help with neck turning

[tonedaddy]

I finally got a gun I need to turn the case necks on the brass before loading. I full length sized the cases then I am using a Sinclair model 1000 and the adapter that holds the case in the drill. The necks are not coming out as smooth as I thought they would be. The brass is Lapua and I am turning them down from .013 to 0125. I have tried making the drill go faster or slower and it still seems they have ridges in them.

Any tips on making them come out smoother? Thanks in advance for your help?

 

[LHSmith]

You MUST use the expander from Sinclair that is specifically matched to the pilot on the cutter....the expander on the FLS die won't work.

 

[243ack1971]

What LHSmith said.

Plus try using a cordless screwdriver instead of a drill. The drill probably spins the case too fast.

 

[jlow]

First, you need to expand the necks with the mandrel that is supposed to be paired with the turning guide.

Turning slowly is always better than fast. Make sure you don't take a big bite i.e. one big turn to get down to 0.0125 and lots of Imperial wax. Big bite will generate too much heat which will cause your brass to expand and make you cut more and unevenly than you intend. Best is to take one or two turns to get close to where you want to be and take that last bit off with a small bite.

 

[Preacher]

What everyone else said, plus go really, really slow when pulling the case out of the cutter.
Going from .013 to .012.5 should not be a problem in one pass, just go slow during the cutting part..

 

[LHSmith]

For a HS steel cutter ~180 rpm is best. That comes from Ken Markle of K&M Precision. When I ordered my first cutter, I, being cheap, did not order the expander with it. Ken sent his sales brochure with the neck turner with a note " You really should use this expander iron and necessary adapter with your new turner...it will make life a lot easier. That was an understatement. Thanks to Ken, I did not screw up any expensive Lapua brass my first time out. Since then...that's another story.

 

[tonedaddy]

I am using the expander mandrel and lots of lube. I will switch to the cordless screwdriver and try that.

 

[Acme7]

Try this link. I have read it several times as i am just about to start this process.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/featured/complete-precision-case-prep/

 

[mikecr]

I full length sized the cases then,,

Just expand new necks & turn

 

[jlow]

What everyone else said, plus go really, really slow when pulling the case out of the cutter.
Going from .013 to .012.5 should not be a problem in one pass, just go slow during the cutting part..

Generally true but even with Lapua, you are going to have some that are significantly thicker and those are the ones you will have problem with if you assume that you are only going from 0.013 to 0.0125. That is the main reason to do an initial modest cut, followed by one that gets you close to where you want to be, and finish with a small final cut. This is what I do when I want my final necks to not vary by more than 0.0003". The guys who are in a hurry and try to do the whole thing in one cut are usually the ones that have problems.

 

[LHSmith]

Speed and feed.....feed the cutter s-l-o-w-l-y into the brass, then s-l-o-w-l-y back out, the slower -the feed - the smoother the finish (provided your cutter is installed the right way, and the cutting edge is not worn).
To finish, run the neck into 000 or finer steel wool- then blow out the inside with compressed air.
Ditto, not a good idea to run the fls expander in first, nor is a good idea to neck turn once the cases are fired.
What kind of gun is it that you feel you must neck-turn?

 

[Lapua40X]

nor is a good idea to neck turn once the cases are fired.

I've read this statement before and I still can't see why taking .0005 off of an unfired case is any different than taking .0005 off of a fired case? As long as the case neck fits the mandrel without being sloppy and my neck sizing die is the correct size the end result should be the same.

 

[CatShooter]

nor is a good idea to neck turn once the cases are fired.

I've read this statement before and I still can't see why taking .0005 off of an unfired case is any different than taking .0005 off of a fired case? As long as the case neck fits the mandrel without being sloppy and my neck sizing die is the correct size the end result should be the same.

I have taken cases that were fired 4 to 6 times, and turned them again... and there was no problem.

 

[spclark]

...nor is a good idea to neck turn once the cases are fired.

Sorry but I take exception to that.

I've been twice-turning necks for years now (first cut on brand new brass then another, shallower cut after a couple firings) & have had absolutely no problems with cases.

What can be an issue is making sure that fired necks are sized ONLY with the proper mandrel for a good fit with the turner's mandrel so I can cut the full neck length down to the shoulder. I do this operation as the fourth step in prepping for reloading after the cases have been decapped, SS-media wet-tumbled, thoroughly dried then annealed.

Only then do cases get F/L sized with the proper neck bushing for desired neck tension, whether they've also had another go under the turner's cutter or not.

 

[armaster]

As said previously, it is the feed rate not the rotational rpm that makes them smooth. You need to feed them in and out slowly.
The whole once and done theory is bad. I turn them after every firing and they need it. The brass continues to grow and flow every time you fire it. (Note: I don't change the cutter setting once it's set-up.)
My process is:
Stainless tumble
Anneal
Lube
Re-size
Expand
Trim
Neck turn
Stainless tumble
I have recently been annealing again at the end with good results.

 

[jcampbellsmith]

I use a cordless drill and a zip chuck. I apply a drop of light oil to the mandrel on the Sinclair cutter before starting to cut each case. I wouldn't turn anything without some liquid for lubrication and cooling. Once I take the case off the mandrel, I hold some plastic steel wool against the case neck just to smooth it off.

However, I now try to avoid neck turning any cases by using good quality brass.

Regards

JCS

 

[spclark]

I apply a drop of light oil to the mandrel on the Sinclair cutter before starting to cut each case. I wouldn't turn anything without some liquid for lubrication and cooling.

That may be adequate for a few cases but to do a better job you ought to invest in a supply of thread-cutting oil & use that instead. Look around for a local machine shop that'll sell you a quart from their barrel. Be better stuff than what you can get at most hardware stores which is frequently not really decent cutting oil.

It's better at lubing the parts that slide across one another as well as better at cooling the cutter itself. You need lube inside AND outside when neck-turning or you'll dull the cutter PDQ as well as get brass build-up on the mandrel inside and the cutter's working edge.

 

[ireload2]

Are your cases actually rough to a finger nail?
If you drag your nail down the neck does it feel like a phonograph record assuming you are that old?
Some times a turned finish will appear rough optically when it is not.

To reduce tool or cutter marks you need a cutter with a little radius on the leads edge of the cutter.
Then you need a reasonably high RPM at least 150 to 200 and the feed rate should be smaller than the corner radius on the cutter.