Hello everyone I’m new here just started reloading a couple months ago, I’m having some issues with my Browning AB3 in .243. Before I started loading i had some 100gr Winchester factory ammo which shot quite terribly avg about 2.25” at 100yards, I assumed this was poor ammo. I tried some loads using the 75 Vmax over 45 and 46Gr of H4350 aswell as 37Gr of IMR 4064 and all yielded average groups of 2” at 100yards. Looking for some advice on where to go, I’m thinking of picking up some more factory loadings to see if I can find something the rifle likes, let me know if you have any ideas. Rifle is a 20” 1:10 twist loads were with Winchester once fired and Ginnex LR primers. Thanks.
Help with .243 load
- Thread starter NathanA
- Start date
DLT
Silver $$ Contributor
First I’d let someone else shoot the rifle. See if it’s you or the gun. !!! Next check scope, rings, and mount
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
The accuracy issue you are having may not be your reloading skills or your lack of load development. The ab3 is an entry level rifle, so cheaper stock/trigger. The lighter barrel is prone to heat distorted groups, so if these are hunting loads, shoot slow/keep barrel cool. Trigger weight, type of support you are shooting off, wind, scope/ring quality and fit(for you) all can affect the results on target. For reloading, consistent charge weight, bullet seating depth/tension and case sizing/prep are what you can do better than factory rds. Reviews for the ab3 seem to point to accuracy greater (larger) than 1 moa at 100 yards. 2" groups are very acceptable for deer and larger game with good wind calls and shots of reasonable distance. I would use Nosler/Sierra data for reference as they note best accuracy charge weights, so you have a route to work up during load development.
Thanks for the replies, I do shoot a lot and am pretty confident in my ability I shoot my .300mag sub moa and pretty commonly shoot out to around 600yards with it. I was shooting off a bipod and rear bag for the groups only doing one group of 3 and letting the barrel cool for 10ish mins between each group. I checked torque on action screws and everything scope wise, I do have a trigger spring in it too which brings the pull down to a very manageable weight. I am kind of thinking the rifle may not be as capable as I was hoping but if I could get at least into the low 1” I’d be ok with that. I’ll definitely check out Nosler or sierra I’ve been using Hornadys manual so far but been looking at getting other for multiple reference. As for my reloading I don’t have a powder dispenser so I hand weigh each one to .1 of a grain which is all my little scale will do.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Both responses you got are very good advice given. Since I started writing this i saw your response so I have to assume you know how to shoot but don’t laugh many do not!…. As was pointed out it’s an entry level rifle,… what scope are you using?… is the parallax adjusted properly?… as far as reloading if your new to it I strongly suggest you find a skilled mentor,… I did not and I made a lot of mistakes!… luckily I’m still here. The guys on here can definitely help you however there’s nothing like hands on. I mean a mentor that’s shot competition that knows how to properly measure , knowledgeable in all the ins and outs of it, a few sessions with a guy like that can really make all the difference,….. good luck and welcome to the forum sir
Wayne
Wayne
Thanks, Scope is an older vortex strike eagle always paralaxed properly, never used it on any other center fires but it held zero well on my .22 trainer for some months. I’m hoping to maybe meet some people through the precision side of things starting out with rimfire.
Fast14riot
Gold $$ Contributor
When new to reloading, or even a new chambering cross reference several manuals to try and find a consensus for charge weights for a given powder and bullet weight, some manuals will list most accurate charge too.
Also, the main site here has lots of good cartridge info covering a wide range of bullets and powder.
Also, the main site here has lots of good cartridge info covering a wide range of bullets and powder.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
Wimpy, flexing stocks and bipods are problematic for shooting groups/load development.
Been shooting the 243 Win since the mid to late 60's and tried many combos of bullets and powders over those years.
IMR 4350 and 4064 are two of the best powders I have ever tested in the 243 Win. The 75 Vmax shoots well in my 243's but that doesn't mean they will shoot well in yours. The best bullet I ever shot in the 243 is the 85 Sierra BTHP. Midway currently has them in stock after a very long hiatus. Another bullet I would try is the Nosler 80 grain BT or 90 BT depending on the intended use.
Unless the rifle is solidly bedded and the barrel free floated, it is difficult to obtain consistent accuracy. My Browning A and X Bolts are both factory bedded / free floated and shoot extremely well despite the less that optimum triggers. If the rifle in question is an economy offering, I would have the action bedded. It is not expensive, especially pillar bedding which I found to be effective.
It is difficult to obtain tight groups with sporter weight barrels if shot in sustained fire sequences. The money shot for a hunting rifle is the cold barrel shot. All my range practice and load development employ cool / cold barrel shot testing.
Load development off a bipod induces another variable and in my experience is not the best way to evaluate the best load.
If you are cleaning to bare metal which seem the fade today, it may take several rounds to re-condition the bore to establish consistent POI. I have witnessed this in numerous fellow shooters over the years.
As you can see, there are many issues which could be causing your larger than desired dispersion. However, a 2" group at 100 yards is certainly capable of taking a deer with proper shot placement.
IMR 4350 and 4064 are two of the best powders I have ever tested in the 243 Win. The 75 Vmax shoots well in my 243's but that doesn't mean they will shoot well in yours. The best bullet I ever shot in the 243 is the 85 Sierra BTHP. Midway currently has them in stock after a very long hiatus. Another bullet I would try is the Nosler 80 grain BT or 90 BT depending on the intended use.
Unless the rifle is solidly bedded and the barrel free floated, it is difficult to obtain consistent accuracy. My Browning A and X Bolts are both factory bedded / free floated and shoot extremely well despite the less that optimum triggers. If the rifle in question is an economy offering, I would have the action bedded. It is not expensive, especially pillar bedding which I found to be effective.
It is difficult to obtain tight groups with sporter weight barrels if shot in sustained fire sequences. The money shot for a hunting rifle is the cold barrel shot. All my range practice and load development employ cool / cold barrel shot testing.
Load development off a bipod induces another variable and in my experience is not the best way to evaluate the best load.
If you are cleaning to bare metal which seem the fade today, it may take several rounds to re-condition the bore to establish consistent POI. I have witnessed this in numerous fellow shooters over the years.
As you can see, there are many issues which could be causing your larger than desired dispersion. However, a 2" group at 100 yards is certainly capable of taking a deer with proper shot placement.
Thanks for the input, the barrel is free floated but with the cheap plastic stock it’s very possible it’s having contact. I was thinking about pillar bedding and will probably look into that. Next time I get a chance to shoot I’ll take my lead sled with me and give that a try instead. I usually do a 3 shot group for fouling after cleaning my barrel but I’m not 100% certain that is enough either, just what I’ve done in past.
To check for free float, you can take a dollar bill or a thin strip of a paper towel, etc. and slide it down the barrel. If it binds, it is not free floated. You may feel some resistance but, it should not bind.
Coyotefurharvester
Silver $$ Contributor
Lead sled is a recoil reducing mechanism, not good for optics,stocks or groups.
Most factory economy stocks will benefit from a bedding job. My Remington's 700 and 7's never shot to their full potential until I free floated the barrel and had the action bedded. In some cases, I replaced the stocks with stocks having bedding blocks but that can be a rather expensive option.
I am not a fan of Lead Sleds. The theory of they sound good but in actual practice they create and unnatural reaction of the rifle to recoil. While the 243 does not have significant recoil, I have seen scopes destroyed using these devices albeit using heavier recoiling rifles.
If you are just beginning in the shooting sports, I recommend that you purchase a high-quality front and rear rest. For hunting rifle applications load testing, the best I have tried is the Caldwell tack driver front rest and the owl ear rear rest filled with sand or shot. This provides a stable platform which allows the rifle to recoil naturally without twisting or stress on the scope. The various high quality tripod front bench rests are also good.
One last point, if the rifle is intended for deer hunting, a 2" moa rifle is quite adequate for most hunting situations at reasonable distances.
Probably should have have mentioned earlier but my hope for the rifle was a medium-longish range capable coyote gun 500yards type of thing, hence the Vmax. I am gonna pick up some different bullets in the 80-95 Gr range and give those a try and I’ll try shooting off a rest to see if the bipod was screwing accuracy. Thanks everyone for all the input so far!
DLT
Silver $$ Contributor
On the bad hard to find list though
Jeff Porter
Gold $$ Contributor
I had good luck whacking and stacking coyotes with the 58 V-Max in a .243 on an old Mauser 98 long action. I used a max load of H414 at 3800 fps that grouped under 0.75" at 100 . I typically kept it under 350 yards and used a 5" point blank kill zone ( +/- 2.5" radius) where I just held middle of fur out to 300 and held top of the back from 300-350. I may have been able to settle in and dial up with a scope with exposed turrets or a BDC type reticle but could usually coax them in a lot closer than that.
I burned out that barrel and put a .308 barrel on that action and picked up a Model 7 predator in .243 but never got it to group as well as that old Mauser with that hand load. The Model 7 shot the factory Superformance 58V max about 0.75"-1.0" so I hit the easy button and bought several boxes of that and just use it now.
I burned out that barrel and put a .308 barrel on that action and picked up a Model 7 predator in .243 but never got it to group as well as that old Mauser with that hand load. The Model 7 shot the factory Superformance 58V max about 0.75"-1.0" so I hit the easy button and bought several boxes of that and just use it now.
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