HELP! Forearm Screw for Tikka T3X

[Dogman45]

I was checking the torque specifications to insure that they were all 44" lbs on my new TikkaT3X and the head on the damn forearm screw sheared off.

The only function the screw serves is to install an optional forearm but it looks like crap not having one on a brand new gun.

I looked at the parts diagram and, of course, the screw isn’t listed.

Does anyone know where the thread specification or know if some one would be willing to sell me that screw off a discarded T3X stock?

Thanks,
Ken

 

[joshb]

Try taking the stock to a local hardware store and find one that fits. Probably metric. I’d love to help but mine is up at a hunting camp.

 

[Dogman45]

Many thanks for the reply. I actually found a spare that I have. Now my issue becomes getting the remainder of the screw extracted. Since there isn’t any of the screw to "grab" with pliers and I don’t have the equipment to extract it, I will have to send the stock out to a gunsmith.

I’m really hacked off. This is a brand new, never gun. I was following manufacturer guidelines to check the torque settings of all the stock/action screws prior to shooting. The torque specks are 44" lbs. I used my "trusty" Wheeler Fat torque driver and low and behold this happens.

If I were a glutton for punishment, I would send it back for warranty repair but I never have had any satisfaction dealing with Beretta USA. I’m sure they would say that I over torqued the screw. For the sake of my mental health, I will just bite the bullet.

Sorry for the rant.

 

[drover]

I was following manufacturer guidelines to check the torque settings of all the stock/action screws prior to shooting.

If I were a glutton for punishment, I would send it back for warranty repair but I never have had any satisfaction dealing with Beretta USA. I’m sure they would say that I over torqued the screw. For the sake of my mental health, I will just bite the bullet.

I am at a bit of a loss of how "stock/action" screws" could be confused for the fore-end screw.

This is the instructions from the manual -
"installation is carried out in reverse order. Tighten the receiver screws to a torque of 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) in metallic trigger guards and max. 5Nm (44 in-lbs) in plastic trigger guards. Make sure to put metallic recoil block (B) in place into stock and pull barreled receiver backwards before tightening the receiver screws in order to remove the slack from the recoil lug."

It appears that you may have misinterpreted the instructions and do not understand the difference between a fore-arm screw and an action (receiver) screw.

drover

 

[boltfluter]

Many thanks for the reply. I actually found a spare that I have. Now my issue becomes getting the remainder of the screw extracted. Since there isn’t any of the screw to "grab" with pliers and I don’t have the equipment to extract it, I will have to send the stock out to a gunsmith.

I’m really hacked off. This is a brand new, never gun. I was following manufacturer guidelines to check the torque settings of all the stock/action screws prior to shooting. The torque specks are 44" lbs. I used my "trusty" Wheeler Fat torque driver and low and behold this happens.

If I were a glutton for punishment, I would send it back for warranty repair but I never have had any satisfaction dealing with Beretta USA. I’m sure they would say that I over torqued the screw. For the sake of my mental health, I will just bite the bullet.

Sorry for the rant.

Since the screw that is left has no tension on it, sometimes you can turn it with a metal pic. Good luck!

Paul

 

[Dogman45]

Drover,
You are exactly right. This one is on me - I should have re-referenced the manual. I’m officially a bone head.

The manual states exactly what you quoted. Sometimes, I do stupid things and read so much stuff off the "net" I get sources scrambled in my head. I remember reading some where, phased "action/ stock screws are torqued to 44" lbs.

 

[Dogman45]

Another question: Is the brass threaded insert the type that has external threads and screws into the stock or is it fluted or actually molded into the stock? I’m thinking it might be the screw-in type because I’m seeing a hex shape and a 4mm hex fits it.

Has anyone successfully removed one of these inserts?