Help Choosing 6BR Dies for .272 Neck

[bronco_buster]

I'm a new to the caliber guy. Just bought a Criterion 6BR barrel with a .272 neck. I've been researching reloading dies, I am looking for conventional dies for a single stage press, but I'm having a difficult time deciding which to get. What I want is a set of dies that I can just use right out of the case, while at the same time being of good enough quality to realize the benefits of the caliber...these will be used for a range toy, no world championship competitions, so I don't want to overspend, nor do I want to be left with an el cheapo set that seats bullets crooked. I have read a bit about bushing dies, but have also heard concerns over "doughnut" formation, so I dont know if I should consider those, full length sizing dies or standard neck sizing dies. I'm also a new reloader, so beside reloading a couple hundred rounds of 308 and 223, I don't fully speak the language yet...but I'm learning...I say this because the whole 6BR Remington versus Norma designation has been frustrating and confusing, but I think I get the idea, that for the most part they are interchangeable if modern. I would just appreciate a good education aimed at the new reloader who is learning the caliber. Yes I've read the main 6br article, and a lot of the forum, but I'm just looking for advice given the current products on the market and the current neck size dogma. Thanks.

 

[mbkmkk]

I am new to the 6BR thing too, but for an over the counter set of dies, I really like the Foster set I just bought. This was the first Forster dies I bought and they are nice for the price, used. I am a Redding fan but these seem a little nicer.

 

[AndyTaber]

I am new to the 6BR also. I just recently put the finishing touches on the stock and have put 160 rounds through it so far. Amazed at the accuracy even while forming my brass. I had looked at dies last year when upgrading my re-loading equipment for my .223 and decided on Redding and duplicated things for the 6BR.

I decided on the Full Length "S" type for resizing and the Competition seater. There are many pro and con opinions on full length vs neck sizing and I came to the conclusion that both are right. If one were clearly the absolute best then other would quickly go away. I am striving for consistency in my loads, so they are as close to the same every time. So, for me, full length sizing is appropriate.

I don't think you will go wrong with either the Redding or the Forster dies. They are both a quality product. I really do like the micrometer setting on the competition seater. I have a note book on every bullet I load and mark down the setting on the die. Makes it very simple to quickly change setups.

Good luck with the new gun.

Andy

 

[fdshuster]

Redding Type S FL bushing neck sizing die, for my .272" chamber necks use .267" and .268" bushings. Die is adjusted to just barely (.001 or .002 max) bump the shoulder back with each sizing. Seldom have to trim case lengths & when I do it's just a few thousandths. Lapua brass life is in the high 30's count. Have never thrown one away for a neck split, case head seperation, or enlarged primer pockets. Do prefer the Forster Micrometer Benchrest Seater die, and as Andy said, I also keep a written record of all the various settings for proper seating depth with each bullet type used. Simple, positive and fast bullet seating every time. The big advantage with the bushing dies is that you are not overworking your brass case necks as will happen with the standard sizing die and the expander. Donuts are not a problem unless you are seating the bullets deep enough for the full diameter to contact the donut at the neck/shoulder junction. If they do, then I use the KM carbide cutter to remove them. Just a few of the things that have worked for me, for a long time now. I'm sure there are many other procedures that also work, maybe even better.

 

[bronco_buster]

So the bushing dies sound like a good way to go. Is the main advantage of those dies over a standard full length totally in the adjustability of the die? I guess what I mean is, if you find out that the neck tension is best at .269 (sounds like at .272 this is the number), then are you better off with a custom honed die from Forster/Harrells to that specific size; versus the bushing die, or are they both equivalent with no clear winner? That neck tension number should remain static shouldn't it? I mean, the bushings dont deform or wear differently do they?

Is it standard practice to mic the brass necks when you reload 6BR? Also, do I have to worry about the decapping pins or have those small diameter issues been resolved by the die manufacturers?

Thanks!

 

[mbkmkk]

I don't think you will go wrong with either the Redding or the Forster dies. They are both a quality product. I really do like the micrometer setting on the competition seater. I have a note book on every bullet I load and mark down the setting on the die. Makes it very simple to quickly change setups.

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I had the Forster Micrometer Competition Seater Die.

Andy is correct, and it has made my life much easier by keeping a log on each bullet.

 

[AndyTaber]

The bushing dies allow you to set the exact amount of neck tension that your barrel likes. The Redding sizing die comes with the propper size decapping pin for the BR case. I also have followed the resounding sentiment that the sizing button be removed - it is not needed or desired. This die also allows you to determine the amount of shoulder bump you want. all of this is toward the goal of not overworking your brass. As long as you stick with one brand of brass, once you have determined the bushing and settings, there is usually no reason to change.

Myself, I don't like to decap the primer with my sizing die so I use the Redding small decapper die with the optional 17/20 caliber rod. This is the proper (small) pin for the BR case. I have a few sizes of the neck bushings. As your brass ages and gets a little work hardened (If your using Lapua brass this will be many, many firings) and you may have to change the bushing to a different size.

In my humble opinion, with a no turn neck, the custom honed dies are a little overkill.

 

[fdshuster]

bronco_buster: Do the math, .272" case neck dia. when firing to .268" (if you choose that size) when sizing and you can see that you are working your brass a maximum of .004"/ .002" per side. For my .272" necks I have .267", .268" & .269" bushings .(plain steel at about $12 each), but .268" is what I use the most. As the brass gets more loadings I may go down one size. I have used a tubing mic on my no-turn Lapua brass, but it's so consistant in neck wall thickness, it quickly becomes meaningless. The 6BR die set should be supplied with the smaller dia. decapping pin, but check it out before using. If it's too large it will stick in the flash hole & pull out of the decapping rod. I knock the primers out with a hand punch. Takes a little longer, but I have control of where the spent primers go, not all over the floor.

 

[bronco_buster]

Why not use the die's decapper? Does this have something to do with the dies, the caliber, or do you guys do this for other calibers as well?

 

[fdshuster]

"bronco": My main reason for hand punching is to control where the primers go. I use a shellholder with the case head sitting on top, knock out the primer, and it's trapped within the shellholder. I have yet to find a press mounted decapping system that will capture all the spent primers. Also if that thin decapping rod contacts a primer flash hole that is off center, the rod will be bent, or at least the pin will be. For a large amount of cases I will usually use a dedicated RCBS decapping die, and I have modified one of my small, lightweight presses so it does trap the majority of primers.

 

[expiper]

Hi bronco....the bushing die is the way to go ...becaause....yes bushings do wear out...I have wore out several....the carbide/nitride are a lil better...but not worth the $$ to me...just get a cupla different ones +/- a thou or 2....and the brass (different wt and brands of bullets vary too) does change/wear a lil....and lot to lot (new Blue Box brass for instance) variances will drive you nuts....get a die that the bushing/neck tension can be changed......Roger

 

[fullersson]

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=626300

This is what I use. These are a very nice set of dies. Your bushings should be .001-.003 under the size of a loaded round. Neck tension is like anything else everyone is doing something different. This is what works for me.