Sounds like quite a project,glad it had a happy ending...cool that you had no leftover parts,I always hate when that happens.good info thx all ! Mitotoyo can't be calibrated as the better Starrett, tho.
I had to slide / remove the dial + assembly 1 -- completely from the other set assembly 2 ( geared rack).
Then reengage the gears/pinion 4-5 times - trial & error until they were within .005" at closed position.
Then loosen the 3 screws backside to fine tune the rack. Then tighten the back screws while at 0.00 in closed position.
Matches my Starrett digi measurements exactly. and no parts left over.
Now I'm going to smash a maul into some doug fir 18" rounds...
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Right Johnbearman.Mitutiyo used to pit a small piece of copper shim stock in your case. It is a weird shape and what you do if you had it is drive the pinion up onto the copper foil and slide one way or the other to reset your zero. I have the same one and it came with the tool and had to use it occasionally to reset my zero.
Mitutiyo used to pit a small piece of copper shim stock in your case. It is a weird shape and what you do if you had it is drive the pinion up onto the copper foil and slide one way or the other to reset your zero. I have the same one and it came with the tool and had to use it occasionally to reset my zero.
Thanks for the info! I just fixed my Mitutoyo caliper that I thought was toast.All i've ever used is Mitutoyo calibers and they have all calibrated the same way. Any small straight rigid item (bent paper clip) will work if you don't have the tool that came with the caliper. There should be a small hole (may be square) either at the top of the dial or at the bottom. You slide the caliper open until the dial needle is lined up on zero, insert the tool and apply downward pressure, hold downward pressure and slowly close the caliper. Release the pressure, dial should stay at zero. You can check the calibration with gage blocks or any known measurement.