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Heavy varmint on Tikka action

Hi all
This question has been asked a bit yet I want to gauge what everyone is doing
So I can get a heavy varmint or m24 barrel
I do not want to modify the action face
I need the heaviest possible barrel
Which contour would work better ?
Is better to turn down the shank (to what OD?l
Or to just let it look goofy
 
How would you modify the action face?
They cut back the chamfer-roll shape on the Tikka action face. Otherwise, if you leave the Tikka action alone the barrel shank needs to be about 1.150".

A heavy Varmint barrel starts out at 1.250". If you turn it down to 1.150" it'll look close to a straight diameter. The M24 starts out at 1.200". This is closer to where you need it but after turning the shank down to 1.150" you'll still have a rather long straight diameter length.

Personally, I like to leave the Tikka action alone.
 
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Here is a picture of a Tikka Action. Explain what has to be “modified”.
keep in mind, Tikka Actions are known for having very true action faces. If you decide to remove that bevel in the front, be sure who ever does it knows how to do it correctly.
IMG_2806.jpeg
 
On my tikka I just got on trade the aftermarket barrel it came with (6xc)
was turned to 1.125 and was a strate taper to .875.
I trued the action face although it probably didn't need it and chambered a heavy Palma for the 6bra and had to turn the shank to 1.185 to keep it even with the receiver flats.
 

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Hi all
This question has been asked a bit yet I want to gauge what everyone is doing
So I can get a heavy varmint or m24 barrel
I do not want to modify the action face
I need the heaviest possible barrel
Which contour would work better ?
Is better to turn down the shank (to what OD?l
Or to just let it look goofy
Had this same situation. Wanted to run a HV profile and didn't want to modify an action as I already had other barrels chambered and it would effect their head space.

What I did was chamfer the shoulder of the barrel down at 45deg so the face of the action and the shoulder of the barrel are the same diameter. I wouldn't say it's elegant but a lot nicer that the photo Aaron posted and it allows me to keep swapping existing barrels. As others have said, even if you face the action it's still not pretty trying to mate a flat sided action to a round barrel.

This is working for a 28" HV with a brake out to 1200yds.
 
Can't see much value in worrying about the looks of the barrel to action interface if it isn't supposed to be an artwork gun as well as a shooter, and ones with fat barrels aren't usually considered for much, in the way of artwork, unless it's something like an 1885 or Stevens 44, etc with an octagon barrel and exotic wood.
 
Can't see much value in worrying about the looks of the barrel to action interface if it isn't supposed to be an artwork gun as well as a shooter, and ones with fat barrels aren't usually considered for much, in the way of artwork, unless it's something like an 1885 or Stevens 44, etc with an octagon barrel and exotic wood.
All machines and mechanical things are art to me.
 
I guess I am the odd man out. The barrel action junction on a Tikka doesn't bother me especially when 80% of it is covered by the stock and the scope.
 
I built a pretty good HBR rifle on a Tikka action, about 37 years ago. As I recall, I turned the shank to 1.150. It took a little effort to fit it to the Lee Six Hunter stock. That action was as straight as any I had used and much straighter than the typical Remington. WH
I've built quite a few on tikka's Will.M55s,590-5s,T3s.ive found M55s are really good,I've had some which are right on the money.you could not rework them and make them any better.if one doesn't want to turn off the chamfer to suit the barrel shank.just turn the barrel shank to suit the chamfer..simple really.
 
I started with an MTU Brux having (originally) a 2,75” length shank, and turned the shank down from 1.25” to 1.20”. You can kind of see in the pic of the rifle how long the shank became.
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I've built quite a few on tikka's Will.M55s,590-5s,T3s.ive found M55s are really good,I've had some which are right on the money.you could not rework them and make them any better.if one doesn't want to turn off the chamfer to suit the barrel shank.just turn the barrel shank to suit the chamfer..simple really.
older 595 I think original cal is 30-06. I see the 590-5s, assume this is included?
 

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