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heavy gun calibers

Well I new to the br game and I shoot 1k. I started with a Savage in a 6br. Now I got have a BAT in a Dasher and wanna turn my Savage into my heavy gun. My plan is to run a 1.25 barrel with a brake since it won't be a "true" hg. I have a 6.5x47 reamer or one of my smiths has a 284 reamer. I shoot at Byers and we shoot 3 hg targets so heat is a issue, so my brilliant plan is to run a caliber that isn't to crazy hot. Which one of the 2 calibers would you pick or would suggest? My Savage doesn't eject br cases and I have done wuite a bit of tinkering and just can't it get it to do it every time so I would like stay away from the brs.
 
Sell your Savage action and no I don't want to buy it, order another Bat and do another dasher. Seemed to me I saw a 6X47 that shot good out there.

Gordy Mitchell
 
Hoier said:
Well I new to the br game and I shoot 1k. Now I got have a BAT in a Dasher and wanna turn my Savage into my heavy gun. My plan is to run a 1.25 barrel with a brake since it won't be a "true" hg. I have a 6.5x47 reamer or one of my smiths has a 284 reamer. I shoot at Byers and we shoot 3 hg targets so heat is a issue. Which one of the 2 calibers would you pick or would suggest?

I don't know if it's always windy there but, my one trip to Byers was very windy. If that's usually the case, I'd pick the .284 for the heavier, high BC bullets available.

-Rick
 
Nick,
If you're interested I would loan you may 7mmx300 RSAUM reamer I think it has an edge on the 284 win. The reamer is set up for 300 Nosler brass necked down to 7mm- no turn .318 neck.
I think the case capacity of the 6.5x47L is a little short for the 140gr bullets. I would prefer either the 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5x 55 Swede imp. if you're looking at the 264 bullets.

If interested PM me and I'll get you my phone # if you don't have it.

If you are hanging the barrel off the receiver I would go with a tapered barrel on the Savage action instead of the 1.25" cylinder. If you use a barrel block then stick whatever diameter you want on it.

James
 
I did what you are talking about. Shot a s.5x47 Lapua last year and a .284 Shehane this year. My 6 Dasher beats them both.

Terry
 
dmoran said:
To beat barrel heat, the bigger the diameter the more it will dissipate heat.
Going to a 1.450" barrel verses your 1.250" concept would be a substantial increase to conductivity and barrel heat dissipation. It would yield around a 15% increase to conductivity.

Another way to look at the 15% gain:
Say it is a 90-degree day with a 1.250" barrel, having a 1.450" instead would equate it to around a 75-degree day.

To take it even a step further yet, a 2" diameter barrel would yield around a 38% gain to conductivity over a 1.250" barrel.

On another note, picking a caliber that primarily uses "faster" burning powders will produce less barrel heat then ones that are more "slower" powder dominate.

Happy Shooting
Donovan Moran

Hey D... A 1.25 weighs 10 lbs (29") and a 1.45 weighs 13lbs (same 29" length) Looks like the 1.45 weighs 30% more than the 1.25. Acording to Kriegers website. I'd say that your 15% number is way low. It's the extra mass of the 1.45" that acts like an additional heat sink. But you are 100 % correct.....bigger is better when fighting heat.

Tod
 
The thicker the steel is, the longer it takes to heat it. Once it has absorbed the heat, it takes it longer to give it up. The thinner barrel heats up much faster, but also cools much quicker. Heat a piece of 1-1/2" plate with a rose bud, and also a piece of 1" plate to the same temperature. You'll be able to pick up the 1" plate MUCH sooner than you will the 1-1/2" plate. Or, cut two pieces of tin foil the same size. Fold one piece in half so that it can be easily handled. Roll the other piece in a ball. Lay them in the heat in direct sunlight or in an oven. Move them out of the sun or oven. Guess which piece will be cooler to the touch after 30 seconds ;D
 
JRS said:
The thicker the steel is, the longer it takes to heat it. Once it has absorbed the heat, it takes it longer to give it up. The thinner barrel heats up much faster, but also cools much quicker. Heat a piece of 1-1/2" plate with a rose bud, and also a piece of 1" plate to the same temperature. You'll be able to pick up the 1" plate MUCH sooner than you will the 1-1/2" plate. Or, cut two pieces of tin foil the same size. Fold one piece in half so that it can be easily handled. Roll the other piece in a ball. Lay them in the heat in direct sunlight or in an oven. Move them out of the sun or oven. Guess which piece will be cooler to the touch after 30 seconds ;D

You are also 100 % correct, but...it takes way more calories of energy (# of shots fired) to get the thicker piece to the same temp as the thinner.....therefore, given 'X' calories (again, #of shots fired..in this case 10) the thicker piece will be much cooler at the end of those 10 shots. Also, with a greater serface area the thicker will also cool faster, given that you are starting at a lower temp. Heating the thicker piece to the same temp as the thinner will take more energy (# of shots), and thus, will take longer to cool than the thinner piece....much more energy to dissapate.

Hey D,

Looks like we posted at the same time!!

That swooshing sound your heard was all of that math going way over my head at over 3000 FPS. Just call me GUMP for short. ;D

Double match point 1.45. ;D
 
In theory, that is true. However, in reality, it isn't.
Another example comparing apples to apples:

Two weld test plates- 3/8" plates vs 1" plates. Both have 22-1/2 degree bevels. The 1" plates have a larger surface area. Both welded at the same time, using the same heat setting on the welding machines. The 3/8" plate welded out flush to surface, the 1" plate welded with the same amount of passes, but WELL short of the plate surface. Apples to apples. In 45 minutes, you'll be able to handle the 3/8" plate with your bare hand. The 1" plate will continue to be quite warm for a considerably longer period of time, even though it had the same amount of passes and a larger surface area. This comes from actual experience, having fabricated and welded on pressure vessels at nuclear power plants all over the country. It's the nature of steel and heat.
 
True Donovan, but, no matter, the heavier barrel takes longer to cool even though it is not as hot as the thinner barrel. It will absorb the heat at a slower rate due to thickness, but it will also give it up at a slower rate due to thickness. We don't use heavy barrels vs thinner barrels for their thermal qualities, but in fact, due to the harmonic properties if you will. The age old light vs heavy to reduce vibration. You seem to have a problem with those who disagree with you. Actual experience, rather than what you have heard or read, would help you greatly. Pick up a thermal gun somewhere and measure the temperature of a light barrel and heavy barrel after shooting the same number of shots through them. Same caliber, same bullet, same powder and charge. Let them sit for 60 seconds or so. Now that I think about it, I'll have my wife check one out from the plant today. One of the luxuries of being a Structural Engineer at an operating nuclear power plant ;)
 
The barrels are made from steel Donovan, not aluminum. You want heat dissipation, slide a thick tight fitting aluminum tube over the barrel ;D I truly hope you don't really believe the bore is expanding in something that thick Donovan. If that were true, and you were running a 10 shot string in a hurry, the bullets would end up all over the target due to the expansion causing a difference in pressure in the barrel with each shot. Come on :o
 
Donovan:
I did not suggest an aluminum barrel. My statement was in reference to a tight fitting aluminum shroud. Something similar to the shroud on an extremely accurate air gun. What it boils down to is this..... Knowing your gun, ability to read the conditions and above all else, marksmanship. Big barrel, thin barrel, heat, minimal heat, etc, etc, etc are nothing more than another excuse IMHO. When I was in the Army, 75th Ranger Regiment many years ago, cold barrel, hot barrel, wind, heat streamers, none were an excuse for a poorly placed shot. We practiced with many, many rounds through the same small barrel on a daily basis, whether cold or hot barrel. Excuses were unacceptable. Practice makes perfect! One other thing I will add Donovan: Though we have our differences in opinion, nothing I have said was meant to offend you. With that said..... If I have offended you, I apologize to you :)
 
I am in the process of having a HV-gun built. It is a barrel-blocked with a 1.450" diameter barrel. I choose to go with the 1.450" barrel to help control barrel heat and the gains that gives to bore expansion from having a cooler barrel through the duration of a record string.

8)
 
So lets get this strait.....size doesn't matter. Taking an example from above, just more exagerated.....a chuck of steel weighing 20,000 pounds and a chunk weighing 2 pounds. Give them both a 30 second blast with your torch....wait 60 seconds....then measure the temp with a heat gun. They will be the same temp.



GOT IT!!! ;)
 
No, they will not be. The thicker steel will absorb more heat in the same length of time. That is , unless the 2 pound piece is the same thickness as the 20,000 pound piece and the heat is concentrated in the same place. Simple physics.
 
Pick up a pc of 30-06 brass from a bolt gun and pick up a pc of 30-06 brass from a M1 Garand, which one is hotter to the touch?
 
This whole post reminds me of 1 of those tests I took in school , Where it says read the entire test before doing anything and the last sentence says do nothing but put your name at the top of the paper . Great information though but some people are missing the point .
 

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