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Heavy bolt lift on empty chamber...

My Ruger Precision 6.5 has what I consider an unusually heavy bolt lift. This is felt with an empty chamber as well. When I close the bolt, then lift, it's very heavy. If I close it again without pulling bolt back, just lifting bolt up then down and up again, it's quite light and 'normal' feeling. So I'm curious about the springs, bolt intervals, but that's not an area I have any experience. Just noting that it appears to be a lot of the tension, heaviness, during this initial lifting of the bolt.

I've never had this sort of issue, only own a few bolt rifles, but a new issue. Is this something that a gunsmith can fix? I'm using this rifle for PRS and similar styled steel matches. As of now, I have to take weak hand off rifle and grab butt stock or top of rifle while cycling the bolt. This creates a situation where I'm constantly reacquiring my target in scope.

Thanks for any suggestion.


Dan

NC
 
Dan,

Normal with a three lug as the distance you have to cock the firing pin is reduced so it requires more effort. All three lugs are like this to one degree or another.

It's easier when you haven't dry fired because the pin s already cocked.

Chris
 
They are a good value for what you get. Rugers idea of precision leaves much to be desired but im glad theyre stepping up. I bet after you cycle it a few thousand rounds itll get better
 
Your Ruger is a cast POS & nothing Ruger manufactures should be allowed to include precision or accuracy in it's description.

The Barnard "3 Lug" bolts cycle just fine!
The BAT 3 Lug bolts cycle just fine!
The RPA's not so well,but better than an Uger!
 
Actually, it shot a 0.161" and is a consistent half MOA rifle with 139 Scenars and 42.2 gr H4350 20 thou off. My practice area goes to 985 yards and this gun makes short work of it all. I just was wondering if there was a way to smooth the bolt lift.

Dan
 
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Are you putting grease on the back of the lugs? Use something like TW25B on the back of the bolt lugs. Don't expect it to feel like a BAT. It is a $1,100 dollar gun.

The best thing you can actually do for it to make it "precision" is to re-chamber it with a quality barrel like a Brux, Bartlein or Krieger. The hammer forged barrel it comes with is okay to start out with, but I've borescoped it and I shrieked and decided to sell the barrel right then and there. I am actually pleased with the factory trigger and I think it is fine for tactical use.

I have a Ruger RPR, which I chambered up in 6 Dasher and I love it. Shoots consistent 5-shots in the mid 2's...108BT, 10K in the lands and Varget, going 2990 fps in a 28" barrel. With AI mags, I would need to make some mag modifications to cycle 100%, but with the Pmag AI 308 mags (the new ones), they feed really well.

20160114_220118_zpsji1eaj2z.jpg
 
I will try grease. Thanks. May try to disassemble bolt and polish a bit and then grease inside. Hope the bolt doesn't blow up. Hah. I'm not very familiar with bolt internals. Must be a video. Hah.

Dan
 
Beyond making sure that there is a film of grease on the back of the locking lugs, and more on the cocking cam, you could also disassemble the striker assembly (assembled firing pin, firing pin spring, cocking piece, and shroud) from the bolt and make sure that the shroud's threads are properly greased as well. Do substitute oil for grease in these areas.
 
Thanks guys. Bit embarrassing, but I just cleaned bolt and applied TW25 to back of lugs and cocking cam. Like an entirely different rifle. 75% improvement. I had not greased these areas previously. I also ordered a longer bolt knob from Long Rifles Inc which may offer a tad more mechanical advantage. But it was clearly a gun maintenance issue. Thanks for the assistance.

Dan
NC
 
As a general practice for all bolt action rifles, I grease the lugs and cocking cam each time that I clean the rifle. As I am doing so I glance an the shroud threads that are exposed in the area of the cocking cam to verify that there is grease on them. If you are in a dusty environment it is a good idea to take the bolt apart, clean it inside and out, and reapply grease in the appropriate areas every so often. It is also a good idea to have and use a lug recess and barrel chamber cleaning kit. One does not want to over apply lug grease, because you do not want it to find its way into the chamber or onto ammunition. If I am working with bolt grease in a container I use something like a match stick to apply the merest film to the back of the lugs and remove any extra with the corner of a piece of paper towel. Bolt grease that is sold in syringes is another handy option, that is worthwhile when working outdoors because it sharply reduces the likelihood of grit being blown into your grease container while it is open and in use. One trick that I learned recently is to hold the trigger when inserting the bolt so that the rifle does not cock, and maintain forward pressure on the bolt as it reaches its forward limit and is turned down so that the rear faces of the lugs do not have the grease wiped off before they have a chance to transfer some to their respective lug seats. When I read this, it was one of those slap forehead with open palm while thinking "Why didn't I think of that before?" moments.
 
I actually have been doing the "hold the trigger back" method for some time after putting grease. I too, do this every time I clean the gun. Can't remember where I heard it either, but it was about a year ago on one of these online forums.

TW25B and Slip2000 EWG in a syringe are my favorite ones to go behind the locking lugs
 
Your Ruger is a cast POS & nothing Ruger manufactures should be allowed to include precision or accuracy in it's description.

The Barnard "3 Lug" bolts cycle just fine!
The BAT 3 Lug bolts cycle just fine!
The RPA's not so well,but better than an Uger!

Hey Dans40x welder not all of us can afford, or want, $1,200+ actions. Sounds like the OP's Ruger Precision is working just fine.
 

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