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headspacing help

Guys,

Sorry for bringing up a topic that gets covered a lot, but I've read a lot of posts and I'm still confused about something. I understand that too much headspace is dangerous, but what is the issue with having your headspace on the tight side. If you are headspaced under SAAMI spec and the bolt closes with minimal resistance what issue does this cause? I want to set my gun up for minimal headspace, but I don't want to put myself in danger if I'm overlooking something here. Disclaimer: This is my private gun,6BR using Lapua brass) that only I shoot with my reloads, and would be headspaced back to SAAMI spec if I were to ever sell it. If the bolt will close, and I'm under SAAMI spec what danger does this cause?

Thanks in advance,
Bill
 
As long as the bolt will close without any undue pressure your in good shape, even if you had to lean on it, it will still be OK, but if they are getting that tight, you need to full length them, or at least bump the shoulder so they will chamber normally.
A little bit of pressure to close the bolt is better than it just falling of it's own accord...
 
If you get it too short you may not be able to bump the shoulders back. I did run into this one time. Even with the shellholder hard up against the die I was not touching the shoulder. Since it was a Savage I just moved the bbl out a few though and took care of the issue.

If this had been a Remington I would have ground some matl off the top of the shellholder.
 
Thanks for the input. I failed to mention that this is a Savage target action. I'm taking the barrel off to have the freebore lengthened for the 105s. I headspaced to SAAMI spec originally, but since I only shoot reloads using lapua brass I was going to headspace off either new brass or my fired cases that I already have. My thoughts were to headspace off of the new brass so I would have minimal case stretching from the get go, and then to set my dies to bump the shoulder back from there. Is this the preferred method?

Thanks,
Bill
 
You can accomplish the same thing buy setting up your dies up for a snug fit. That way you won't have to full length size every time and you'll always be able to bump the shoulder back when needed. And your brass will be usable later in a different chamber.

RJ
 
Set your headspace using fired brass that has been resized in your die. If you use unfired brass, you may set the headspace too short for your die to size the case.
 
If you have a bushing to measure the case datum length [ or the Hornady kit ] then you can measure the Go gauge and several of your unfired cases to see what the typical length actually is. If you don't have a way to make this measurement then you should acquire one.

I also believe in bumping back the shoulders .001" everytime.
 
I also have read a lot about setting the dies to set the shoulder back but am confused about that process. I have FL dies and when it gets to the shell holder that is it right? I hope I do not seem to ignorant but am I missing a step or what else can be done to do this. I use small base dies for my 223 and that works wonders on my AR's. I sometimes have issues with reloaded rounds for my Win. model 70 270 in having to tight a fit even after FL sizing. Any advise is very much appreciated.
T
 
Without some way to measure the datum length you have NO idea how much you are bumping the shoulder back. See pic below

BRreloadingcasegaugeandjamfinder.jpg
 
Take a look at the Redding Competion Shellholder Set....The five shell holders varies the length of the cartridge in + .002 of an inch steps. + .002, .004, .006, and .008 --Start with the +.008 and try to chamber the round, if the case is to long try the next smaller shell holder .
 
Rayjay,

What headspace tool are you using? I saw a Hornady in Sinclair, but didn't know if it was a good tool.

Thanks,
Bill
 
That little brass bushing came with my Harrell's 30BR sizing die. I have since bought a lathe and now make one up anytime I acquire a new cartridge. Once you get used to using them as an aid to adjusting the sizing die there is no going back to just running the shellholder up against the bottom of the sizing die.
 
I can contest that the above method that rayjay has shown works, he help me a couple of year back with these same instructions. Sinclair bullet comparator body #09-1000 sells for 14.95 and the caliber inserts sell for 6.95 each. I was surprised to find just how many of die set were in need of some adjusting.

RJ
 
The most important thing a shooter needs to know about headspace is the actual chamber clearance that YOUR handloads will have in YOUR particular chamber. This tool displays exactly that.

headspaceBC400.JPG


Check it out on our website . . . .

- Innovative
 
For the cost of a cheap set of dial calipers and a little brass bushing I can tell that the case in my pic is a fired case. I adjust my sizing die so the shoulder is set back about .001".
 
rayjay,

You're right, and anytime you can save money that's a good deal. But you'll need an infinite number of bushings to do what this tool will do, and this gauge provides uniform downward pressure for getting consistent measurements. No need to balance a case on the blade of calipers either. Sometimes it's worth a few bucks to have the best tools.

- Innovative
 
Hi Rayjay...the lil' tool that you are using is the type that I have been using since the 70's with much success...some people even use a Wilson bushing that is bigger than the neck dia for the same purpose....I like the siplicity of it, and nuthin to adjust. Roger
 
rayjay,

You're right, simplicity is a very good thing. Both methods use the exact same principal. Just compare the size of your handloads to one of your fireformed cases. I've used your technique for almost 30 years, and it's a cheap way to get the job done. However, our gauge is not nearly as rickety, and at $89.95 it's a pretty good deal.

- Innovative
 

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