Head Space

[Eraser]

Just got my barreled action back from the smith. .223 cut with PT&G ISSF reamer.
Going to get my feet wet in 600yd F-TR. Go to the range to workup some potential loads and fire form brass, everything went well. Got home, measured the brass to get an idea of the head space, and checked that measurement against a go-gauge, no difference, they both measured the same. Inserted the go-gauge and could not begin to close the bolt. I'm not sure what's going on.

Question is, what are my options? Is there a work around this beside sending it back? I tried bumping the brass back to virgin brass dimensions but the sizing die will not allow it.

 

[dnellans]

Your assessment above is correct, if you can’t close on a go gauge, you’re below sammi spec and you can’t size brass unless you get a custom die made.

If the smith let a rifle out of the house that wouldn’t close on the go (most folks want a tight close, but a close never the less) then i’d probably find a new smith to fix the problem unless original has a very good explain for how this happened.

I guess it’s worth checking your go gauge just in case it’s out of spec first or is mislabeled and is actually a no-go, but if you can’t close on factory brass (which is undersized) that’s a double check that the chamber isn’t right.

sorry for the bad news

 

[K22]

I'm confused - did the fired case extract without issue? Does the fired case chamber without issue?

Do you have a bump gauge and caliper?

Measure the fired case (primer removed) - bump the shoulder back about .001" and check in the rifle. It should fit if you set the die correctly and measured accurately.


Not sure what the go / no gauges have to do with the cases and sizing thereof - the gun smith should have chambered the rifle using these gauges to check for the correct head space in the rifle. If the gauge doesn't chamber then something is a miss with the rifle.

 

[jepp2]

what are my options?

1. start with calling your smith and asking where he set the headspace.
2. if it is short chambered and you are willing to live with it, you can always take a few 0.001's off the top of your shellholder. Shellholders are pretty cheap and soft, and it is easy to remove material. Dies are very hard and cost more.

Don't take this personally, but do you know how to use a stripped bolt to check headspace? Sometimes best intentions don't always yield the desired results.

 

[Eraser]

Not sure what the go / no gauges have to do with the cases and sizing thereof - the gun smith should have chambered the rifle using these gauges to check for the correct head space in the rifle. If the gauge doesn't chamber then something is a miss with the rifle.​

Going to call the smith for more info.​

 

[Richard Jones]

Would like to know what he says about it when you return it...............

 

[243winxb]

Small base die? Custom die? Both may be a fix? If sending it back is not to your liking.

 

[243winxb]

Got home, measured the brass to get an idea of the head space and checked that measurement against a go-gauge, + .001 difference compared to the virgin brass. Inserted the go-gauge and could not begin to close the bolt.

Does the virgin brass chamber?

A comparitor is used to measure fired brass & compare it to full length sized brass. The same head to datum measurement would be ok. Fired brass springs back.

Before using a go gauge, the extractor and ejector should be removed .

Just in case your new to reloading?

 

[Eraser]

1. start with calling your smith and asking where he set the headspace.
2. if it is short chambered and you are willing to live with it, you can always take a few 0.001's off the top of your shellholder. Shellholders are pretty cheap and soft, and it is easy to remove material. Dies are very hard and cost more.

Don't take this personally, but do you know how to use a stripped bolt to check headspace? Sometimes best intentions don't always yield the desired results.

I just had a talk with the gunsmith, and he assured me, he did indeed check the headspace with a go-gauge. I have known him for over ten years and believe what he says. He also said "all go-no go gauges are not created equal and the one I used to check with may have a sharp corner at the shoulder/body junction not allowing the gauge to enter".
We also talked about surface grinding a shell holder if need be, as you suggested.
Time will tell.

 

[Kings X]

Does the virgin brass chamber?

A comparitor is used to measure fired brass & compare it to full length sized brass. The same head to datum measurement would be ok. Fired brass springs back.

Before using a go gauge, the extractor and ejector should be removed .

Just in case your new to reloading?

Removing the extractor is not the easiest thing to do. Small parts on sliding units go flying. Remingtons usually get bent and won’t extract very well. Pinned remingtons - not everyone can put the rivet back in right. M-16 - yes - piece of cake.
Best thing here is have smith bump to out to a tight No-Go or grind shell holder off. FIRST I would check both Go gauges at the same time. If his gauge is short, he needs to know it.

 

[243winxb]

Used to check headspace of the M16 rifle. If bolt closes on this field gauge, the rifle should be taken out of service and repaired. This type of gauge does not require the removal of the extractor and ejector like other gauges , when checking the headspace.