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GUNSMITHING PRICES?

I am having a rifle built by a local "shade-tree" gunsmith. He quoted me prices on each process of the build. The only price that didn't sound correct is the recoil lug pinning. What is the "going rate" to have this done. Just wanting to know others opinions. Thanks in advance.
 
I would usually include that with the work of doing a complete job.
If I was to just charge for doing just that, I don't think $25.00 is out of line.
 
REDGUN:

Often you get what you pay for. Obviously you have not bought a mill, or drill press and/or the tooling one would need to do such a job correctly. Drill bits, center drills, in HSS or carbide are expensive. Taps also are expensive. Removing a broken bit or tap is a difficult and timely process. On the otherhand if one screws up what is the cost to repair or replace the damaged or destroyed action.

Twenty-five dollars per hole is a pretty standard price to pay for drilling and/or tapping a hole in an action. Have you tried to drill or tap and action lately.

Most gunsmiths have several thousand dollars invested into their business before they open their doors, ie: license, permits, insurance, utilities, inventory, not to mention machinery and tooling.

REMEMBER THEY ARE GUNSMITHS NOT SOCIAL SERVICES1

Rustystud
 
Nicely said Rusty. Parker Ackley once told me something that really hit home and I only met him twice. I framed it and hung it on the wall behind the customer's counter and never had a gripe from anyone. The sign read and I quote direct from Parker, "Another man's price may be cheaper than mine. He and he alone knows what his product is worth."
 
REDGUN, Gander Mountain has a fairly detailed price list for gunsmith services. You might check them out.

As for the pinning operation, I wouldn't do it at all on a Remington. To me the hole is an unnecessary defect in the receiver.

Good luck on your build, Tom
 
RustyStud, This person is a "shade-tree" gunsmith. No license, insurance, permits or inventory. He does have a lathe and the ability to use it though. He does "good" work, just out of his garage==really no overhead expenses.

The only reason I am having the recoil lug pinned is this is to be a switch barrel rifle.
 
Redgun,
I would run from a person like that. Why don't you buy a Remington Recoil lug locating tool. They are inexpensive. Don't need it pinned then. You can't pin one on a lathe without a great deal of trouble. It could be done though.
Butch
 
REDGUN, I wanted to be one of those "shadetrees" but am a retired weldor, not a machinest.

My advice would be to find out how this guy's rifles shoot before giving him your work. Talk to people that he's built rifles for. Also, look at his shop for cleanliness, etc.. Does he make up a job sheet and go over it with you and agree on the work to be done, the components to use and the price? You need to get a receipt from him if you supply a donor rifle. Does he have boxes to put your parts and components in that have your name on them and does he commit to a delivery date? I would think that a guy working out of his garage should be able to commit to no more than 90 days after receipt of all materials. It's also really good if his shop is close to you.

Aside from all of that, if he's already done work for you that was satisfactory, and his rifles shoot, your chances are as good with him as anybody else. I've owned 2 rifles that were built by very well known shops that were no better than factory guns.

Good luck on your build, Tom
 
Send rifle to Alan Warner and be assured it will be done right once and quality work.

Plus when or if you sell the rifle you will get more $ because people know Alan's work.

RHINOUT!
 
Redgun:

Does your "Shadetree Gunsmith" pin your action while you wait or do you drop it off and pick it up a few days later?

If you leave your action with him over night, he needs to have a license,FFL), period.

If the BATF finds out your "Shade Tree Gunsmiths" is conducting business without a license,FFL), they will charge both you and him with a federal felony.

Your talking about it on a public forum is not in your's or his best interest.

Rustystud
 
Rustystud, thanks very much for bringing this up. I have been thinking about working on other people's projects because I am retired now and I enjoy the work, but if it can't be done without a license, I've got to decide if I want to try to get one. I've been told it's a hassle. Meantime you have probably helped keep someone,including me) out of trouble.

I've also been wanting to build model live steam engines. That should keep me off the streets!

JRS is right, good comment.

Good shooting, Tom
 
I think it's important to evaluate anyone who performs work on your gun, at any price, whether they work out of a storefront shop or a tree house. I have had experience with "Certified Master Gunsmiths" who believe that they can throw a Rem 700 action into a three jawed chuck and in ten minutes have it trued, and advertise "action truing". He said there was no need to indicate it in, "how far off could it be". There is no requirement for testing for proficiency in many states for gunsmith certification. I have been licensed in New York and it was little more than a tracking system. I now work in Michigan, which requies nothing.
 
If the job was quoted as just doing the pinning,taking the barrel off and reinstalling) it isn't too bad. Otherwise if the pinning is done in the course of other work such as rebarreling then I'd think something in the line of $35 to $40 would be more appropriate.
 

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