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Guidance in removing a rubber butt pad on a rifle stock

jepp2

Gold $$ Contributor
Pretty basic question. I intend to refinish my Cooper MTV stock. Assume I need to remove the rubber butt pad. Just never have done that before. I also assume the screw heads will be phillips, will #1 or #2 work best? Anything I need to do to keep the rubber from wanting to twist with the shank of the screw driver when I back out the screws? Picture below shows it. Thanks for any helpful hints you may offer.

Cooper MTV Butt Pad.jpg
 
Try a little lube on your screwdriver. If that doesn't work, keep removing the screwdriver every couple of turns. Matt
 
They should have a razor X or slice , use a lot of lube on shank , remove one a few turns then go to the other , go back and forth between screws till the pad lifts . It may be stuck around the finished edge .
 
Leave the pad on and tape it off.

^^^ This...If you are going/needing to do any sanding on the stock you want the pad in place. If you take it off you will round over the edges of the wood a bit when sanding(even if you're carefull) and then when you replace pad it is gonna look like crap. Crap in like you can tell it was refinished by an amateur!!!! You can tape it off or whatever. Cannot recall ever having an issue with any finish not drying on the pad also. May take a bit longer. You can then take 0000 steel wool or such and carefully remove finish from pad if you don't like the looks. You can use painters masking tape on the new wood finish to protect it while carefully removing dried finish on pad. YMMV.

Also if you remove pad and remove and replace screwdriver bit many times you are going to chew up the rubber. I use paste wax for lube but it seems no matter how carefull or what you use the chances are better than not of leaving a more noticeable mark/hole than it is. So to avoid destroying or damaging pad or realignment issues when replacing if you can get it done in place you will be much better off in my experience of dozens and dozens of refinishes etc over the last 30yrs or so.
 
^^^ This...If you are going/needing to do any sanding on the stock you want the pad in place. If you take it off you will round over the edges of the wood a bit when sanding(even if you're carefull) and then when you replace pad it is gonna look like crap. Crap in like you can tell it was refinished by an amateur!!!! You can tape it off or whatever. Cannot recall ever having an issue with any finish not drying on the pad also. May take a bit longer. You can then take 0000 steel wool or such and carefully remove finish from pad if you don't like the looks. You can use painters masking tape on the new wood finish to protect it while carefully removing dried finish on pad. YMMV.

Also if you remove pad and remove and replace screwdriver bit many times you are going to chew up the rubber. I use paste wax for lube but it seems no matter how carefull or what you use the chances are better than not of leaving a more noticeable mark/hole than it is. So to avoid destroying or damaging pad or realignment issues when replacing if you can get it done in place you will be much better off in my experience of dozens and dozens of refinishes etc over the last 30yrs or so.
I just finished a old 700 bdl stock. The one with the metal butt pad. I removed it and used a sanding block to remove the finish on that end. 100 grit-150 grit- 220 grit. Those stocks were finished with some type of varnish back in the late 60s. I finish with boiled linseed oil. About 4 coats and 000 fine steel wool between coats. Finish with a coat of Johnsons Wax. Impress your friends. Robert.
 
I see the slot in the pad so it looks it is screwed on . Get a round Number 2 Phillips head use dish soap turn it left . You should be home free . Larry
 
If you are refinishing, leave the pad on. You will end up with the pad perfectly fit and you can carefully remove the finish from the pad with fine emery cloth or steel wool being careful not to touch the wood,
 

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