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Great bolt bushing service

Last year I built a target rifle in 6BR using a Howa 1500 action that PT&G had on sale for $250. (I use it for a 300 yard egg shoot at the local club) The gun has always shoot pretty good, but not great. The bolt had a huge hole for the firing pin and left moon-sized craters in the primers. Well, @Grimstod said he could do a bushing for me so I sent it off to him. It turned out to be a real pain in the rear to do because it would not fit in his 700 bolt fixture. So he went the extra mile and made a fixture just for the Howa bolt and did his usual magic on it. The gun shoots night and day better now! So if you are in need of bolt bushing and need it done right and with a reasonable turn around time, I can highly recommend @Grimstod for the work. (He is famous for his Savage bolt work, but he now does others too)
Thanks again Grimstod
John
 
I am curious as to why bushing the firing pin hole would make a rifle shoot better. I am not doubting your report at all, but I would like to know if you have an opinion as to what caused the change in accuracy.
 
I really don't know for sure, I can only guess. I think it is because with all the adjustments he does on the firing pin you get the exact same pin strike every time. Makes every primer burn at the same rate. That's just my guess, but I had the same results when he did my Savage bolt. It's not going to make a turd shoot like a world class rifle, but if you can get a couple of % better groups, that's all you can ask for. For what I am doing with it, if it can shave a quarter inch off a group at 300 yards it might be the difference between a hit and a miss. I'm hoping one of the big time gun smiths will chime in on this and let me know how far off base I am.
 
Last I knew grimstod was only doing savages that he could put in collets. Good to see he's expanded to bolts with handles. --Jerry
 
I am curious as to why bushing the firing pin hole would make a rifle shoot better. I am not doubting your report at all, but I would like to know if you have an opinion as to what caused the change in accuracy.

I am not familiar with the work that was done on the OP's rifle, so I cant speak to that. But I will say this, when I bush a firing pin I always grind the firing pin itself down and install the bushing long enough in length so that the pin is "guided" thru it's entire travel in the bolt by the bushing. Once done, you go from having a floating firing pin that is unguided, except for the often ridiculous clearance that the factory gives {which affords really no guidance at all} to one that has about .002" clearance the entire duration of it's fall in the bolt. You also go from having a well oversize firing pin hole in the bolt face to one that just fits the pin and is now centered properly. Imagine having a firing pin that falls nearly dead zero straight {within .001" in any direction}, and now hits dead center. Now consider that you don't have primer cup metal flowing back into and sticking in the oversize bolt face hole {causing the bolt to "click" on opening}. Remember, all this is going on before the bullet leaves the muzzle.
I had posted photos of all this on here once upon a time, but I think photobucket killed it all. I will be happy to post them again if you would like further clarification, I know the way I explain this is hard to follow.
As far as actual affect on accuracy...from the time the sear breaks until the time the bullet clears the muzzle is critical as far as "unstable" or "inconsistent" movement in the rifle is concerned. The striker assembly is the largest moving part during this critical time. It is always best for accuracy if we can stabilize and add consistency to this movement.
My own personal rifle, the one I have the photos of, was barreled, bedded and stocked with a new trigger prior to the work. Groups were measured before and after only the bolt bushing and the groups showed improvement. It was not my "opinion" that the groups were smaller it is a fact. I will not say that it will work on all rifles and I am not saying that merely making the firing pin hole in the bolt face itself smaller will accomplish the same results or not...every rifle is different.

Edit: if you really want to see a loose hot mess, take a look inside the body of a 700 bolt with a borescope...it looks like a bunch of wild chimpanzee's in heat bored it out with a dull bit brace and finished to size with a chisel and big hammer!!!! That is what the round collar on the firing pin is trying to center on and be guided by when the striker assembly falls and we haven't even made it to the firing pin hole yet......
 
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Often when I get a bolt in to bush that has a lot of rounds on it wear will be evident where it was impacting the bolt in the unguided re-entry into the hole. It is shocking how out of round these pins are worn sometimes. They do generally clean up when taken to the new diameter and once you capture the firing pin in the bushing it is guided and this wear is greatly reduced. Just one of the many advantages of bushing.

--Jerry
 
Msink

I would sure like to see pictures of the work you do on bolts.

Thanks
Hal

Certainly sir....I will have to do this in a couple posts because of the number of photos. In this first photo you can see the firing pin hole in the bolt face of a 223 Model 700. You can see that the hole itself is {for some strange reason} beveled. I purchased this rifle new and it was like this from the factory. P6060015.JPG
In this next photo I would like to show the results of having the firing pin hole beveled...primer cup metal flows into the bevel and causes the spent primers to have this "ridged crater". It also caused the bolt to stick a little on opening and click when it released from the bevel. P6060008.JPG
 
Here is a photo of several factory firing pins to illustrate the proper firing pin tip shape. The one all the way to the right, or third pin, is the tip with the correct configuration. You can see it is kind of slightly flattened, but still has a radius. The pin on the left or first pin is the least desirable of the three with a full half circle looking round tip. P6070022.JPG
In the next photo you can see the bushed bolt face. The bevel is gone and a new slightly smaller hole is bored dead center. The bushing is simply made from a bolt having #10-32 threads and screwed into the "machined to receive" bolt. It is left long with a slot to tighten it and machined flat to the face and then bored for the modified pin. The bushing is long/deep enough into the bolt so that the pin stays within it's confines it's entire length of being cocked and released to fire. P6260029.JPG
 
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The firing pin has to be modified now because of the depth into the bolt that the bushing penetrates. Here is a photo of an aftermarket "Speedlock" pin, the one with the red collar, which is a stock type configuration. Seen beside it is the modified captive pin used with the bushing.P6300031.JPG
Here is the end result...fired primers no longer show the severe ridge and cratering they previously had. P6260027.JPG
I am hesitant to show a target because folks could get the idea that "all ya gotta do" is have their bolt bushed and it will shoot one ragged hole. Nothing could be further from the truth.
If you PM me your e-mail address I can send you a article produced by Borden regarding the bushing of bolts which helps to explain better. Wish I had taken photos of the entire operation step by step....I will do so so I can post them next time I bush one. I do hope this has helped to illustrate some of what is going on. Of course, having a beveled firing pin hole is definitely not the only reason this operation is done, it just happened to be the reason this bolt was done.
Also, I write this thread as if I invented all this....nothing could be further from that either. I didn't "discover" any of it. This is all work done based on generous information from others, I am just passing it along hoping it might help someone to at least understand.
 

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Yup, out here on the plains of Eastern Colorado the wind pretty much blows every day. For our egg shoot we super glue rubber bands on the top of the eggs, and hang them from hooks. The harder it blows, the more they swing. Not as easy as it sounds.
I did a little more work with my tuner yesterday and got the gun shooting real small. Went out this morning and shot a .188" three shot group at 200 yards with a cold, clean barrel. Now I'm going to have to come up with a new excuse for missing! Thanks a ton!
John
 

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