Glass bedding

[Panama Evans]

This maybe a retorical question, but I figure I better ask then have to do the bedding twice.
I have a matching pair of savage 12F 6mm br's, and I have new bartlien barrels (same contour) being made for them. I'm replacing the bolt faces, lugs, and nuts. My question is this
Can I bed the rifles using the old barrels. I'd remove them, replace all the above parts, then bed the actions. Then once the barrels are here replace the barrels, and be finished.
I'm wanting to know if this could be a potential problem not using the new barrels in the fashion I'm contemplating. I'm just asking so I could do the bedding while I wait on the barrels, or should I wait. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Just be sure to totally float the barrel, particularly on a Savage, where you are switching barrels. Do not assume the same contour is "exact".
You can use any barrel while bedding, to center things up in the stock, just keep it out or grind the epoxy out of the barrel channel when done, and off of the barrel nut.

p.s. --Oh, and use the same recoil lug as you plan to end up using.

 

[Panama Evans]

Good advice. It shouldn't be a problem since the 12F's are free floating, and have preinstalled pillars that I plan on leaving. I'm going to grind out around them to keep the same height.
I do plan on using the new lugs since they are cnc machined precision lugs. I read that the original lugs aren't always precise, and the owner at southern precision recommended all new hardware anyways.

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

Good advice. It shouldn't be a problem since the 12F's are free floating, and have preinstalled pillars that I plan on leaving. I'm going to grind out around them to keep the same height.
I do plan on using the new lugs since they are cnc machined precision lugs. I read that the original lugs aren't always precise, and the owner at southern precision recommended all new hardware anyways.

I'm not sure we're on the same page...I'm referring to the recoil lug that goes between the receiver and the barrel.

Also, those pillars are never in flush IME. That's ok..just don't use them to square anything up to/with.

As for the factory free floating the barrel...yes, but you're bedding it. You are in control of where the bedding goes or doesn't. If it goes where it shouldn't, you can just grind it out under the barrel.

Bedding a rifle is a good DIY project but if you've never done one before, it wouldn't hurt to have someone help with the first time.--Mike

p.s.--It's all reversible and you can't really screw anything up that a good smith can't fix. Just be sure to dam up where needed, plug holes, and don't get it mechanically stuck. Again, nothing a good smith can't fix but might as well get it right the first time. It's cheaper to pay a smith to do it than it is to pay him to fix a screw up, usually.

You can do it, just use some common sense and watch where the bedding can get into.

 

[Panama Evans]

We are on the same page. Yes I'll be using the new recoil lugs to bed it with devcon. So are you saying to float the bedding above the existing pillars? Or what do you recommend as a process to ensure proper alignment with the action screws to pillars so I keep the proper alignment?

 

[drybean]

We are on the same page. Yes I'll be using the new recoil lugs to bed it with devcon. So are you saying to float the bedding above the existing pillars? Or what do you recommend as a process to ensure proper alignment with the action screws to pillars so I keep the proper alignment?

Wrap the alignment studs with tape so they center in your pillars

 

[gunsandgunsmithing]

We are on the same page. Yes I'll be using the new recoil lugs to bed it with devcon. So are you saying to float the bedding above the existing pillars? Or what do you recommend as a process to ensure proper alignment with the action screws to pillars so I keep the proper alignment?

Yes, won't hurt a thing to have the pillars below the wood a bit. I prefer to set the stock up in a mill, true everything up where I want it and then take the wood down to the pillars if it's not too far. This way I can align the barrel channel, center the screws up in the pillars(usually), have uniform bedding thickness, etc. Sometimes it's easier to replace the pillars.

You can use a few wraps of tape around the barrel to center it up in the barrel channel. But then, the screws may or may not be centered in the pillars. There's more than one way to skin this cat and most of them will be a significant improvement of the way it came. That's why it's sometimes easier to just make new pillars.