I purchased a Fulghum rest for 1000 yd BR about a month ago and have used it in 4 matches. I have it set up so the rest top DOES NOT PIVOT, it's in a locked position. I find when I shoot 40 rounds with my 6x47, continually pushing against the front stops, the top ALWAYS seems to work loose. The two small front brass screws that butt against the rest top don't seem to be doing their job of keeping the top rigid. Has anyone else using this rest experienced the same problem? Love the simplicity of the windage and elevation setup but the loose top is growing old.
Fulghum (Randolph) Rest
- Thread starter PMA3
- Start date
The top is supposed to spin freely. The brass screws should remain tight though. Make sure to push down on and hold the bag assembly when tightening the two brass screws. I have not had those brass screws come loose before but I let my top spin freely so that the stock doesn't get pinched in the bag.
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
I thought those rests were made for rimfire benchrest?
Dusty, I think they were originally built for rimfire but there are a lot of them being used for 600/1000. They are a little light on the back end and benefit from an add weight or a larger plate. They are very popular in my area for 600 yards.
As far as the top moving, it only spins. It doesn't move side to side unless you use the windage adjustment. When the top is allowed to spin freely, it eliminates binding between the forend and front bag, unlike the Sinclair competition rest.
As far as the top moving, it only spins. It doesn't move side to side unless you use the windage adjustment. When the top is allowed to spin freely, it eliminates binding between the forend and front bag, unlike the Sinclair competition rest.
bozo699
Gold $$ Contributor
Paul,
I haven't been on in a while, been busy with haying and cattle lately and didn't do much in the shooting world. I just saw your personal post to me and i will get back to ya, I can't now but will send ya pics. I added front legs to mine and it took all the rock out of it, the top pivoting has been no problem at all at 1000 yards as long as I set the back rest correctly the gun tracks very nice and goes back to battery (SP) I have to make lite adjustments in my 10 shot strings but I believe only because that ***#@@***** Lawton action never ejects correctly, I have corrected that problem with a P-1000 action but have not rung out yet, I hope to do well with the setup next year, I will post a pic of my Fulghum rest in the next few days if I can still remember how.
Wayne.
I haven't been on in a while, been busy with haying and cattle lately and didn't do much in the shooting world. I just saw your personal post to me and i will get back to ya, I can't now but will send ya pics. I added front legs to mine and it took all the rock out of it, the top pivoting has been no problem at all at 1000 yards as long as I set the back rest correctly the gun tracks very nice and goes back to battery (SP) I have to make lite adjustments in my 10 shot strings but I believe only because that ***#@@***** Lawton action never ejects correctly, I have corrected that problem with a P-1000 action but have not rung out yet, I hope to do well with the setup next year, I will post a pic of my Fulghum rest in the next few days if I can still remember how.
Wayne.
Thanks for the feed back fellows. I had Steve @ Randolph make me a custom front stop that firmly butts against the rest top and still gives me my desired stock overhang from the front rest top to the stop. I'm hoping that this modification, along with the two front brass screws pushing in from the other side, will keep the top in place...won't know until I try it out.
I have one of these rests, and love it! I use it almost exclusively in RF bench rest shooting (club level only), with the occasional foray into center fire (.223.) When I ordered it, I had some reservations about the swiveling top, too, but the Randolph folks suggested I try it. I did, and am now convinced it's the way to go. The only thing I don't like about the rest is the same problem you addressed, the little brass screws working loose. I just retighten 'em regularly, so it's not really a serious problem, but am thinking about trying either blue Loctite or clear fingernail polish on the threads to eliminate it entirely. Just haven't gotten around to actually doing it.
BTW, one other thing I've done is put some plastic tubing on the forend stop to make sure I don't mar my rifle stocks. I bought 5/8 clear tubing at Lowe's for 49 cents a foot. This worked, but was just very slightly loose. I was going to get some 1/2" to see if it'd be better, but before I did a shooting pard found a plastic tube that once contained .50 cal. Pyrodex pellets at the range & handed it to me. I immediately thought of the forend stop, so tried it out & it was a perfect fit--just trim to length! So if you have a Fulgham rest & some .50 cal. Pyrodex pellets, you need look no further for your forend stop cushions! If not, resign yourself to spending a quarter.
BTW, one other thing I've done is put some plastic tubing on the forend stop to make sure I don't mar my rifle stocks. I bought 5/8 clear tubing at Lowe's for 49 cents a foot. This worked, but was just very slightly loose. I was going to get some 1/2" to see if it'd be better, but before I did a shooting pard found a plastic tube that once contained .50 cal. Pyrodex pellets at the range & handed it to me. I immediately thought of the forend stop, so tried it out & it was a perfect fit--just trim to length! So if you have a Fulgham rest & some .50 cal. Pyrodex pellets, you need look no further for your forend stop cushions! If not, resign yourself to spending a quarter.
Lloyd,
I use the plastic tubing also but use a hair dryer to heat it up and expand it, then push it on the stops for a nice tight fit.
I sent a letter to Steve at Randolph offering a solution to the brass screws butting against the top. If he would drill two holes through the rest top into the plate that holds the top, locating them where the brass screws butt the top, he could "mate" the top to the plate and it should never loosen up, regardless of what caliber you're shooting. I'll post his response once I receive it...he was on vacation last week.
I use the plastic tubing also but use a hair dryer to heat it up and expand it, then push it on the stops for a nice tight fit.
I sent a letter to Steve at Randolph offering a solution to the brass screws butting against the top. If he would drill two holes through the rest top into the plate that holds the top, locating them where the brass screws butt the top, he could "mate" the top to the plate and it should never loosen up, regardless of what caliber you're shooting. I'll post his response once I receive it...he was on vacation last week.
Lloyd,
I wasn't smart enough to figure out the hair dryer trick either, I got that info from someone here on the forum.
I spoke with Steve this morning and he can modify the rest top to "mate" with the plate, thus ensuring no wobble or having to worry about the two small brass screws coming loose. I will probably go this route after I fire form 80 cases this fall on my "front stop modified version" first to see how it performs.
I wasn't smart enough to figure out the hair dryer trick either, I got that info from someone here on the forum.
I spoke with Steve this morning and he can modify the rest top to "mate" with the plate, thus ensuring no wobble or having to worry about the two small brass screws coming loose. I will probably go this route after I fire form 80 cases this fall on my "front stop modified version" first to see how it performs.
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