Freebore, how much is too much?

[RonS]

I have a well used Remington in .308 w/ 1:10 twist, that I have been shooting factory ammo only, Remington Express 150gr. Core-Lokt. So I decided to start reloading for it because I noticed my accuracy is starting to go deep south. The first thing I tried was having it re-crowned. Well that didn't change a thing using factory ammo, so I took the gun back to the gunsmith and showed him my targets and how wide the groups were, 2.5 - 3.0 @ 100 yards. He checked the gun again and told me the freebore was over .25" and I should think about a new gun that he just happened to have for about $1200.00. Well, is this too much freebore for a .308 WIN and if so, how can I save some money and continue to hunt and target shoot with one of my old favorites?

 

[fdshuster]

Ron: Consider re-barreling with a Krieger, Bartlein, Hart, etc. Total cost would be around $500 for the barrel blank & the gunsmith's installation & you could have chamber dimensions and the exact amount of freebore that you want.

I always think of a new barrel as a whole new rifle, and it sort of is, since the barrel is the single most important part.

 

[RonS]

fdshuster, thanks this rifle was handed down to me and I would like to do the same one day. The gunsmith I took it to wanted my old rifle plus $1200 for his rifle that he built. When I re-barrel this rifle it wouldn't be by by him.

 

[Nomad47]

Ron, I think you have made a wise decision.

 

[jscandale]

Ron,

If the rifle has some personal value to you, you can always find a factory take off barrel and have it installed so that you don't change the authenticity of the rifle. They are often for sale.

JS

 

[NorCalMikie]

Freebore over .25"? Some larger calibers won't shoot with the bullets jammed into the lands. Think about rolling your own ammo. You might come up with something a little more to your liking.
Shooting buddy has a HS Pricision in .308 with .110" freebore and it shoots bug holes with reloads. Won't shoot worth a hoot with the bullets jammed.
If it was me, I think I'd try different factory ammo and see what changes I could come up with. You may be surprised.
Load some longer rounds with the bullets seated closer to the lands (single feed) and see what happens.
If that doesn't show any improvement, then start thinking of as rebarrel. Don't make any sudden decisions about a rebarrel till you know it's going to make a difference.

 

[MGYSGT]

You could just have it rechambered if there is enough barrel and you want to keep everything original.

 

[RonS]

Hey guys, I tried reloading with some Sierra 175gr BTHP, with the bullet seated with a minimum bearing surface in the neck, I am still more than .150" from the lands & grooves. When I used my Hornady OAL gauge to obtain a seating depth for the 175gr bullets, the bearing surface was completely out of the OAL case with the bullet touching the L&G's. I think its time to say goodbye to the original barrel. Besides I think a 1:12T would suit lighter bullets better and a shooter length would fare better in the woods similar to an old 30-30 Winchester. What do you think?

 

[TRECustom]

Ron, I've never seen a factory Remington chamber with that much freebore. Saami std .308 Win freebore is .090". You didn't say if it was a 700 or if it had a factory barrel. I know nothing about the Rem pumps and semi-autos.

I wouldn't accept the long freebore diagnosis without an examination with a borescope. Depending on round count, it could be extreme throat erosion, or it was long-throated for heavier, longer bullets by whoever handed it down to you. Both are pretty unlikely unless it's a match gun. No matter, a borescope inspection or a Cerrosafe chamber/neck/throat casting will tell the tale. It would tell you if you could do a one or two full thread setback and get a new chamber and a new throat. If it really does have .250" of freebore, it would take 5 full turns setback to get all new freebore and throat. That's too much. Better to rebarrel with a good take-off or a custom barrel.

I used to load a lot of .308 ammo for match rifle and service rifles. Several rifles of both types shot 168gr Smkhp's seated .040" off the lands. They would still fit in the magazine and in M-14 clips, and were capable of shooting MOA out to 600 yds. (I usually wasn't). Iron sights.

On the subject of freebore, Weatherby factory freebore ranges from .162" for the .224 Wby to .756" for the .460 Wby! ....257 Wby thru .338 x .378 Wbys average about .365" freebore. I shoot .30 x .378, .340, .338 x .378, and .460 Wby. All are chambered with factory dimension reamers. (3/8" to 3/4" freebores). The .30 x .378 has shot a best of 5 rds into .204" at 100 yds. The .460 shoots MOA at 100 yds. The .340 is the best cold bore shooter I've ever owned. All but the .460 are homebuilts.

Bottom line for me on freebore is that it is necessary on the boomers, but I can't see more than about .125" freebore in a .308 Win. Any bullet needing more than that is heavier than optimum for the cartridge and will probably have to be single-loaded. Matchkings shoot in everything I own. For hunting, the Nosler Accubonds are the best in my rifles.

Incidentally, the perfect donor rifle to me is a Rem 700 that won't shoot. With a little TLC (and $$) they can be made to shoot bugholes.

I got too long-winded again, but maybe something in here will contribute to the good advice you've gotten in the other replies.

I'd like to know what you end up doing.

Tom

 

[RonS]

TRECustom, I don't think my uncle had any work done to it, but he and his sons did hunt a lot with it over the years. I think fdshuster hit the nail on the head, replace the barrel and don't look back. It does hold some sentimental value to me and I hope it does the same for my nephew when he inherits it from me.

 

[TRECustom]

RonS, +1 on the rebarrel if it is acceptable to you. I don't know where you are located, but when you pick a 'smith, get someone with good references from his customers. I have pulled rifles apart that were "custom built" that were a series of disasters. The only good thing I could find on some of them was that they didn't blow up.

Good luck, Tom

 

[wapiti25]

When you re-barrel keep the old barrel. The old barrel could be re-installed if the action is not modified too much. Oil the old barrel and put it away for latter. Good luck

 

[Steve Blair]

I have two .308 barrels chambered with my .280" freebore reamer. They both shoot really well. Of course, they were intended to shoot Berger 230 Hybrids for which they are nearly ideal. Think heavy.

 

[MarkS]

RonS,

I had a 308 Rem varmint Sp Heavy barrel. The length to touch the rifling was 0.25" over max length of what seat in the mag. I set the bullets out to touch the lands and it shot very well. You might try that, before the final rebarrel, as long as the bullets hold in the case. But a rebarrel would be the next step.

Mark Schronce

 

[Rustystud]

Most Factory Remington Barrels in .308 come with more throat than can be reached with medium to light weight bullets and remain under 2.808 SAAMI spec. for magazine feed. Factory barrels cost the manufacture about $35.00 to make. Most higher end barrel makers hunting rifle contours cost $250-$300.00 for the blank. Depending on what you do to the action your looking at $275.00 -$600. for truing, timing, chambering, headspacing, crowning, finishing, engraving and test firing.
There are plenty of good gunsmiths pick one with a proven record.
Nat Lambeth