Free-floating Barrel Channel Quetion

[Bulseyetom]

I just had a Remington Model Seven rebarreled to a larger diameter barrel. I have opened the barrel channel on the synthetic stock to where it is almost free-floated but there are a few tight spots. What can I rub on the barrel so that when I install the barreled action into the stock and then remove it I can see the places where it is rubbing? Thanks for any advice. Tom

 

[T 700]

shoe polish, hope that helps

 

[fdshuster]

Tom: When I run into that problem, I slide a piece of paper up the barrel channel to where it stops, and put a small piece of masking tape on the stock at that location. Then concentrate on that spot with 80 grit paper wrapper around the appropriate diameter wood dowell.

 

[wvscorpio]

Hey Tom, I'm sure there's something made specifically for the job, and don't laugh, but a coat of your better half's lipstick will work just as good.

 

[shortgrass]

You've heard of inletting black,,,, they make inletting gold/yellow, too. Leaves a nice, easy to see, mark on dark sufaces (wood or synthetic).

 

[broiler]

Inletting black works really well. That's what you use when you're inletting a stock blank. However, if you don't feel like buying any of it, the lipstick comment is legit, it works really well also. Just put it on the bottom of your barrel and when you take it out of the stock it will leave a mark in only the places where it touches.

 

[Killshot]

I found that using a 14" long piece of wooden dowel, either 1.250" or whatever size you need to get 1/8"barrel clearance, wrapped with sandpaper, will bore out the barrel channel evenly, avoiding the high spots altogether.

 

[4xforfun]

I use strips of emmery paper or sand paper in 1 inch by 12 (or more) inch strips. I slip the paper in between the stock and the bbl with the rough side facing out toward the stock and I "saw" my way up to the action. It the fit is just to tight, I loosen the action screws a bit. Once I get it cleaned out I will tighten the screws up a bit and do over untill I can saw my way to the action with the action screws tight.

Now, obviously this is NOT sand paper, it is just a regular piece of paper for demo perposes. I am actually out of emmery paper, but I get it in roles an inch wide by 50 feet.

Just grab an end with each hand, pull back and forth (saw) and work your way back to the action.

Good luck,
Tod

 

[queen_stick]

I found that using a 14" long piece of wooden dowel, either 1.250" or whatever size you need to get 1/8"barrel clearance, will bore out the barrel channel evenly, avoiding the high spots altogether.

anyone familiar with body work will vouch for that. ALWAYS use the longest sanding block possible. By doing so, high and low spots will show themselves without using some sort of 'marking compound." Although, I will admit it's VERY easy to take too much out in a situation like this (fitting a barrel into a channel while keeping very tight/uniform clearance). Using lipstick (very legit product for such use) or inletting black/gold is like using a guide coat in autobody... it allows you to correct those high.low spots that aren't visible .

4xforfun's idea is pretty slick too... I might need to try that the next time I mess around with a stock.

 

[Bulseyetom]

Thanks guys. I used inletting black years ago when I was working with stocks more but didn't really want to order any if shoe polish or lipstick type ideas were out there. I don't have the room to open the channel up too much as a #3 contour barrel is all that will work in this stock. If I had more room I would definitely use the trick using the barrel as a guide.......I would never have thought of that in a million years! Now I better tell my better half that I might have lipstick on my shirt tomorrow and it isn't from the divorced blonde down the street! Take care and good shooting to all. Tom

 

[itchyTF]

4x -
I'm surprised that the edges of the strips (grit intermingled with the cloth) wouldn't end up scratching the barrel.

 

[Bulseyetom]

The red lipstick worked like a charm and was easy to clean off the barrel when done. Thanks for the tips gentlemen. I will be heading to the range Sunday to see if the rifle shoots or whether I need to rebed the action. Take care and good shooting. Tom

 

[TheSnake]

These are great solutions but what the heck do you guys tell your wife? The lipstick my wife buys is expensive. ;D

 

[GrpShrinkr]

The best way I have found to free float barrel is to take a full sheet of 100-125 grit sandpaper and cut it in 1/4 sheets. Then get a piece of computer paper and cut it just a little wider than the sandpaper. With the rear action screw installed tight and the front action screw loose, place the sandpaper between the barrel and the barrel channel. Then put the computer paper between the back of the sandpaper and the barrel so the edges of the sandpaper cannot scratch the barrel.

Grasp both ends of the sandpaper with your thumb and fingers so the sandpaper is lightly snug around bottom and sides of the barrel. Move the sand paper forward and backward along the barrel channel from the recoil lug all the way to the front of the barrel channel. As you are sanding, keep tightening up the front action screw a little at a time making it just tight enough that you can still move the sandpaper back and forth. When the front action screw is fully tight and the sandpaper is still able to be moved without binding you are done.

You will end up with a free floated barrel and a barrel channel that perfectly matches the taper of your barrel (because you are using it as a template) with the clearance between the barrel channel and the stock approximately 0.025" or the thickness of two business cards.

Good Shooting to You All,

Jim Nasset
Aftermarket Innovations
http://www.rifle-accuracy.com

 

[doc gordon]

a lot of good ideas.you can also tape the barrel for protection.

 

[tenring]

PRUSSIAN BLUE