Free Float question

[DP003]

Hey guys, I usually mostly do reading on this forum but finally registered. I have a question about free floating a barrel. I recently got a new Krieger heavy varmint barrel put on my rifle. The old Remington varmint barrel was free floating no problem but this big tube pretty much just rests in the stock (bell and Carlson M40). It seems like I've been sanding and grinding forever and I can't get it to free float.

My question is how critical is it to have a free floating barrel. In my mind it would seem more critical for pencil tubes or at least it would just need to be consistent whether it was touching all the time or floating all the time. However, I'm no expert and I'm looking for wisdom. Just looking for the best accuracy.

I'm sure people will ask so this is the rifle set up:
Trued Remington 700 SA
24" Krieger 1-10" .308 with threaded muzzle for a can later (need approval from the Mrs.)
Bell and Carlson M40 stock
SWFA 5-20 HD scope
Jewell Trigger

Thanks in advance for the advice...

 

[CatShooter]

It is critical...

... keep on digging

 

[Larryh128]

+10 on Catshooter. Buy a bedding tool, makes life easy.

 

[roninfl.]

What they said and keep at it you'll get there.

 

[Toby Bradshaw]

The problem is that the HV contour is a LOT fatter than the Remington varmint contour, especially at the chamber end, where the 1.25" cylinder is 5" long in HV and only 2.2" long in Rem varmint. That makes for a big inletting job.

http://www.kriegerbarrels.com/Contours-c1246-wp3382.htm

But the barrel does need to float.

Also, the HV barrel is more than 2 pounds heavier than the Rem varmint barrel, so the balance of your rifle may need some adjustment to shoot well.

 

[bheadboy]

all of the above, HOWEVER, an easier solution i have used,is to take hardware store washer large enough to clear the action screws and set one on each of the stock "holes" at the screw locations, the bed with glass, the result is you raise the action about .020 and the bbl is clear.

Bob

 

[Lapua40X]

... It seems like I've been sanding and grinding forever and I can't get it to free float.

The word that caught my eye was "sanding". Sanding is the last step. You may also find it easier to use scrapers rather than grinders (which I assume are something akin to moto-tool). If you can find steel washers that replicate the size of your barrel at various intervals (I'd focus on 4 to 6 inches between measurements), including the barrel width at the chamber point, you can sharpen those along one side and use them much like a cabinet scraper to shape the stock recess. It takes a little practice but starting with the front portion of the forestock and working you way back with increasingly larger sizes can produce a nice job - certainly faster than sanding.

 

[DP003]

Thanks guys.... sanding was probably the wrong word to use there but I just kept working on it a few more hours and got it to float. I'll probably break it in and develop a load this coming week and see how she shoots.

 

[painter]

for what it is worth a piece of 40 grit sand paper stickey back stuck to a piece of 3/4 in pipe will do it in a little time then finish w/ 80 grit .stop in at a napa store or any body shop supply store

 

[22BRGUY]

Barrel gotta float....Is your action pillared already also?

 

[Raythemanroe]

I took a six point impact socket and I can't remember what size but I measured od and wrapped my chosen papper around it and went to town! I ended up with a nice round symmetrical barrel channel.

 

[K22]

All my Remington (factory stocked) rifles shot better some much better after free floating the barrel. Pillar bedding also improved several of my rifles.

Most mfg's now offer their rifles with free floated barrels from the factory. Maybe someday Remington will take the hint and get on board.