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Frankford Arsenal Co-Ax M Press

So I am on my 2nd FA press in 2 months.
1st one the LED lighting didn't work and Grafs replaced within a week since BTI couldn't replace directly as they didn't have any in stock.

So two issues so far with thr press.
1. Die Block. On the initial upward stroke during sizing, the block tilts backward until there is more case contact then levels out as it has pressure against the top.
2. If you use seating dies like RCBS competition or Gold Medal that have the shell holder post, you cannot use this in the universal shell holder as it was meant to sit in place of the shell holder on a single stage press or similar.

I've been contacting BTI on a weekly basis with updates and been in communication with Wade who is very knowledgeable but also new to the intricacies of the M-Press.
All I keep doing at the moment is sending pics of different issues as they arise so he can forward and show to the "Designer" who is onsite.
Hey "Designer", I know you tried to copy at best the Forster but YOU MISSED A LOT IN YOUR DESIGN.
Great concepts on the drawing board but I'm guessing your not a reloader!!!!

I haven't given up on this press yet.
Maybe I'll get a R&D commission from Frankford Arsenal.
 
I just about bought one then figured out I could not use my redding competition shell holders. Scratched that idea.
 
Hmmmmm. I noticed the, "die block" moving in a video and right away didn't like that. I don't know if the movement would cause any problems. I just didn't like it.
 
For those who like detailed comparisons . . . there's a comparison of 14 single stage presses at the ultimatereloader.com. If you haven't seen it, check it out, but beware of information overload. :rolleyes:
 
Pics to accompany my initial post.
These I have sent to BTI as well.
 

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To work around the die blocks, take two regular Hornady or Forster or larger style die rings, space them out to fill the space that the die block fills and then you can actually tighten them to completely fill the space which prevents pretty much all of the gap the blocks have. Alignment was great after that.

Also, I did find that using their locking screw helped a lot too. I initially didn’t use it (I don’t use it on my Forster) and just stuck the block in but after locking it in I seemed to get better alignment on mine. Seems they designed it to want to be locked in.

Both of these fixes worked for me. YMMV
 

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With this press you have to add $5 (for the blocks) to the cost of every die. That adds up quickly.

The block might not be drilled and tapped squarely and that might affect die alignment. Why introduce another part that might not be made correctly?

IMO I would just stay with the proven Forster Co-Ax press. Will also cost less in the long run.
 
reference: "IMO I would just stay with the proven Forster Co-Ax press. Will also cost less in the long run."

that would be the case if you could still get them from other vendors. At $515 from Forster, I don't know. It has been many, many months since they were available from vendors.
 
reference: "IMO I would just stay with the proven Forster Co-Ax press. Will also cost less in the long run."

that would be the case if you could still get them from other vendors. At $515 from Forster, I don't know. It has been many, many months since they were available from vendors.

I agree. I wouldn't pay that much for this press. I would give Forster a call and find out why they can't make them fast enough to satisfy demand. If they get enough calls maybe they will give the presses a little more priority.
 
I purchased one a few weeks ago, within 10-12 cycles of sizing brass the screws in the base where the shelll holder is mounted pulled out. They were not threaded the same as the screws. Graf & Sons were great, they offered me my money back or store credit, no questions asked. I got a MEC press and think it is great. I will have to agree that some design work needs to be done, Kudos to Graf for excellent service as always..
 
Mec and forget it, smoothest press I have ever owned. I almost bought the FA coax but die blocks were not available yet.
 
To work around the die blocks, take two regular Hornady or Forster or larger style die rings, space them out to fill the space that the die block fills and then you can actually tighten them to completely fill the space which prevents pretty much all of the gap the blocks have. Alignment was great after that.

Also, I did find that using their locking screw helped a lot too. I initially didn’t use it (I don’t use it on my Forster) and just stuck the block in but after locking it in I seemed to get better alignment on mine. Seems they designed it to want to be locked in.

Both of these fixes worked for me. YMMV
Smart man! That's an excellent workaround plus it can save money if you have extra die rings. I ordered the FA's CoAx press and their digital scale as they have an excellent online deal.
 
Watching him resize the cases, it looks like the upstroke requires more effort than with a Forster COAX.
The die block just takes the place of a locking ring, yes?
The die block moving during the resizing is the free floating part - same as on the Forster COAX.
 

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