So my range now allows steel shooting and I want to buy an 8 inch diameter plate. Looked at holders and came up with I'm sure not an original idea. Saw horse brackets and 2x4s. I can make it as high and wide as I want, some chain to hold the plate and I'm in business. Wood is cheap in case someone misses the plate. Anywhoo just throwing this out.
Frame for shooting steel targets
- Thread starter mousegunner
- Start date
the shrapnel from the bullets will eat the wood up in a hurry
Since the legs are angled out and the plate lies in the middle shouldn't be a
problem. When the bullet strikes, the plate moves back and splatter is directed down. I've seen a holder that's a vertical 2x4 and the plate at the top is angled down. Seems like that one would splatter the 2x4 more. Found a picture, like I said not an original idea.
problem. When the bullet strikes, the plate moves back and splatter is directed down. I've seen a holder that's a vertical 2x4 and the plate at the top is angled down. Seems like that one would splatter the 2x4 more. Found a picture, like I said not an original idea.
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Jarhead6870
Gold $$ Contributor
My "go-to" steel guy is Jake Vibbert at JC Steel. A very accomplished PRS shooter who knows what it take to make and support a good target. My target frames are made from rebar using brackets available from Jake. Affordable and easily replaced if damage should occur but honestly, I've not replaced any legs after thousands of rounds fired at targets used at matches at our club. As mentioned, wood gets eaten up quickly, steel is more than worth the extra cost.
JC Steel also has numerous targets available and shipping is very reasonable.
Link: https://jcsteeltargets.configio.com...t?cid=391&returncom=productlist&source=search
JC Steel also has numerous targets available and shipping is very reasonable.
Link: https://jcsteeltargets.configio.com...t?cid=391&returncom=productlist&source=search
Hang Fast Targets has a very easy way to hang steel targets. The T Post is the perfect platform that doesn't have a lot of parts, very stable and easy to transport. Multiple target plates can be hung on a single T Post. The plates are VERY reactive and have good sound due to the single point mount.
Plates hang naturally at a back angle to deflect splatter.
Plates hang naturally at a back angle to deflect splatter.
MGYSGT
Silver $$ Contributor
Don't use chain. Use strips of mud flaps. Mud Flap will take lot of hits before you break it. One flap makes 6 straps. You cut them with a circular saw into long strips a couple of inches wide. Drill a hole in both ends about 2 inches from the end. Use grade 8 bolts and washers on the nut side (back) to attach them. When and if you ever wear it out, simply unbolt and bolt new in it's place.
Good advice all around so far but this was the single thing I did to help keep me shooting without having to stop and go fix a target. I typically have a not quite experienced shooter with me and chains can be shot out very easily. I use out of commission fire hose and it can take a lot. Since I’ve done this 4 years ago, I haven’t had to replace the originals. Not portable but I drive t posts into the ground. Made some hangers by chopping down some 2x2 square steel and running an eye bolt though it.
powderbrake
Gold $$ Contributor
Here is a very easy, "no tool" frame for gongs. The chains attach to the rear of the target, and cause the target to hang at an angle. Frames and targets are available up to almost full size deer targets. The legs slide into pockets, the endplates slide onto the cross bar, and the chains fit hooks on the cross bar, so it can all be disassembled and put back into the box it was shipped in. With the ability to rotate the end plates, the frame can always be set solidly on uneven ground.
https://custommetalprod.com/gong-targets
https://custommetalprod.com/gong-targets
how about these? looks good. 2 flaps. https://www.northerntool.com/shop/t...MIiIH17dis4QIVHCCtBh1-2A_8EAQYBSABEgKN3vD_BwE
If the frame can be left in place, I'd suggest using chain link fence posts with a couple of L shaped brackets to connect the top bar. I put up a bunch at my last club and they can take a beating and are dirt cheap. I think I paid approximately $10-12 per frame. Just cut the posts to your desired height with about a foot extra and drive them into the ground, connect the top bar and hang your targets.
And they can easily carry the weight... I had a 2 ft x 2 ft, 3/8 inch thick, AR500 plate hanging from one for a year with no problem.
And they can easily carry the weight... I had a 2 ft x 2 ft, 3/8 inch thick, AR500 plate hanging from one for a year with no problem.
The Hang Fast System uses the plate to shield the hanger and chain from bullet damage. The only thing exposed is the Grade 8 carriage bolt head.
So you have a T Post and a plate with nothing else showing for the bullet to damage. Sure beats all that other stuff like 2 x 4's and sawhorses. Unless you like fooling around building stuff and buying expensive stands.... The T Post cost under 5 bucks.
moondog
Gold $$ Contributor
Mine is a bit different, I use JC steel plates.
Their single point hangers are awesome.
I use T-posts about 4 ft apart. Round or square pipe the fits over the T-posts. Drill
1/2 or 3/4 hole through pipe. Use 1/2 or 3/4 Re bar through the pipe and set it on the T posts. I use used conveyor belt or Fire hose as hangers. I don't have a close up of one, this is the best I have. 36" plate @ 1600
Their single point hangers are awesome.
I use T-posts about 4 ft apart. Round or square pipe the fits over the T-posts. Drill
1/2 or 3/4 hole through pipe. Use 1/2 or 3/4 Re bar through the pipe and set it on the T posts. I use used conveyor belt or Fire hose as hangers. I don't have a close up of one, this is the best I have. 36" plate @ 1600
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