Forster Press

[BillMcCall]

Does anyone use a Forster single stage for rifle reloading? Are you satisfied with the press operation? What kind of neck run out do your re-sized cases and finished rounds have? Are you using a one piece die, two piece or perhaps a body die and separate neck sizing operation? I'd welcome your opinion and any ups or downs you've had with the press.
Thx Bill

 

[Spotcheck_Billy]

I think that the Forster is a great press. Our club had one in the range house for years and it always worked well for me.

I don't like to repeat things that I don't know for a fact, but I seem to remember someone complaining that this press wasn't tall enough to handle some of the longer micrometer dies.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy one if it would handle those long dies.

 

[rstreich]

I don't like to repeat things that I don't know for a fact, but I seem to remember someone complaining that this press wasn't tall enough to handle some of the longer micrometer dies.

Apparently some of the older Co-Axes had a shorter yoke on the handle than they do now. Some of the micrometer dies won't fit under the old yoke. I think Forster has some kind of a deal to replace the yoke if you have the short version.

I love my Co-Ax for two features: the increased leverage and the easy swapping of dies. Changing the jaws,their substitute for a shellholder) can be a pain, but I like the principle of the jaws enough that I haven't opted for the shellholder attachment.

There are some things, like collet-style bullet pullers, that just don't work on the Co-Ax. So, I bought a Lee Classic Cast,based on Randy Robinette's reviews) as a supplement. It's nice having a second press available anyway.

 

[johnwhidden]

As stated above, there is a new handle for the presses that provides plenty of clearance. Redding competition seaters will work fine, too. I know that older presses can be retrofitted, too.

These things are great!

 

[Rem06]

i am very satisfied with mine. forster dies are great also.
not using shell holders anymore made my life easier.operation is very smooth.the handle issue is solved and the only thing i can add is an occasional spent large rifle primer will get stuck in the spent tube,but a small zipstrip,tywrap) or tapping easily clears that.

 

[Kabang]

I recently purchased one from Midway and the 2 guide rods immediately started galling at the end of the stroke indicating to me missaligned holes. I sent it back and the one I received in return had the handle set screw cross threaded and the guide rods were scared up before any use. Has anyone else noted severe quality control problems with their recent purchases?

 

[rstreich]

I recently purchased one from Midway and the 2 guide rods immediately started galling at the end of the stroke indicating to me missaligned holes. I sent it back and the one I received in return had the handle set screw cross threaded and the guide rods were scared up before any use. Has anyone else noted severe quality control problems with their recent purchases?

Nope.

What did you use for lube on the guide rods?

 

[Kabang]

It was pretty oily out of the box and I applied a liberal coat of Ballistol sportsmans oil at 1st and then spread some imperial wax, but the galling was in the same exact place on both guide rods and as it was digging into the metal, I don't think any kind of lubricant would have helped.

 

[BillMcCall]

kabang
After you straightened things out with Midway how did the press work for you?
Bill

 

[Kabang]

kabang
After you straightened things out with Midway how did the press work for you?
Bill

Well, it's not actually straightened out yet as I decided to send the 2nd one back for some unacceptable flaws. Quality control stuff.

I did use the 1st one to size a couple hundred .223 cases before the guide rods started galling and it worked fantastic. The way it accepts and holds the cases is ingenious and goes faster than with my Rockchucker. I would totally recommend it on a function basis.

 

[memilanuk]

I've got one on order from Midway; should be here Tuesday or so. It'll be interesting to see if it also has 'issues' as well.

 

[Magical_Merlin]

I love my Co-Ax!

 

[rstreich]

It was pretty oily out of the box and I applied a liberal coat of Ballistol sportsmans oil at 1st and then spread some imperial wax, but the galling was in the same exact place on both guide rods and as it was digging into the metal, I don't think any kind of lubricant would have helped.

Jeez, forgot about this thread....

I'm not saying this is the case, but I noticed when I got mine it was pretty oily also. However, after using it a few times, I could feel some resistance. I cleaned off the oil that was on it and relubed it with some assembly lube. It's run slick ever since. Maybe what they're shipped with is more for rust prevention than lube. I'll have to ask next time I call them.

 

[Clark]

I got an extra jaw assembly, and drilled, tapped, and countersunk into it for a Phillips flat head screw. I attach the jaws with two knurled cap screws.

I can now swap from large cartridges to .223 size jaws in seconds at the jaw level, just as one can already swap fast at the die level with this press.

I can be a bungling idiot, and still get jaws swapped quickly and correctly without dropping anything, springs flying or other reminders of my limitations.

 

[vonb]

That galling you are speaking of is a a simple alignment problem that can be fixed. Loosen the screws the top of the guide rods in the clamp...Next, run the press down and back to the top of the stroke...Now, tighten them up.

If those screws are tightening during the down stroke, things will bind up.

 

[Kabang]

That galling you are speaking of is a a simple alignment problem that can be fixed. Loosen the screws the top of the guide rods in the clamp...Next, run the press down and back to the top of the stroke...Now, tighten them up.

If those screws are tightening during the down stroke, things will bind up.

That's exactly what I thought, but when I when to loosen the screws on top, they were loose, so maybe that's what was causing it = the loose screws.

 

[rstreich]

I got an extra jaw assembly, and drilled, tapped, and countersunk into it for a Phillips flat head screw. I attach the jaws with two knurled cap screws....

Now that's what I'm going to have to do!

 

[Clark]

The only change is a 4-40 threaded hole with countersink on the bottom of the wear plate and a the two 10-24 screws are knurled.

They are fast now, and drop proof.
What do you need?
1) The 10-24 screws are used on the Forster bench primer, and are available at the hardware store.
2) The 90 degree countersink was easy, as none of the metal is hard.
3) The 4-40 flat head screw is at the hardware store.
4) The 4-40 tap and #43 drill you can get from EncoUSA.
I aligned the wear plate and housing for drilling with a .194+" and .195+ pin gauge.