First time using the die today loading 308 168 smk’s. Setting the die up is a challenge terrible instructions. Using my RCBS single stage with lock and load bushings. Left a couple rings on the bullet and seating depth was all over the place had to pull some bullets. Went back to the tried and true Hornady. Any tips for setting the Forster up?
Forster micrometer 308 die issues.
- Thread starter JJE
- Start date
Instructions seem clear to me. Did you clean the die?
Does the stem fit the bullet properly. Just thoughts to try.
nwmnbowhunter
Silver $$ Contributor
I honestly refuse to use their seater die. The seating stem is so weak it flares out and binds everything. Exact same scenario as you are describing.
Redding micro seater is way better.
Nothing wrong with your hornady either.
Forster sizing dies are good.
Redding micro seater is way better.
Nothing wrong with your hornady either.
Forster sizing dies are good.
BoydAllen
Gold $$ Contributor
I have one of these dies and it was easy to set up and works perfectly. I admit that I did not actually read the instructions but I have always had excellent luck figuring out how to use simple tools. What in these instructions did you find hard to understand?
"4.0 BULLET SEATING PROCEDURE
1. Create a prototype dummy round using the following
procedure:
A. Ensure the Micro Body (MODL-30SM, MODL-30LG) is
securely threaded to the Sleeve (O-30).
B. With the press ram and shell holder at their highest
points, screw the die in the press until the bottom of the
sliding Die Chamber touches the shell holder.
C. Continue screwing the die clockwise until you have fully
compressed the sliding Die Chamber. Next, back it off at
least one full turn because the Die Chamber should
never be fully compressed when seating bullets.
D. Tighten the Cross Bolt Die Lock Ring (DIE-G-10) by
using a 7/64 short arm hex key on the Die Lock Ring
Screw (6-32 X ½ ").
E. Loosen the Lock Nut and adjust the Bullet Seating Stem
up or down until the approximate seating depth is
obtained. Tighten the Lock Nut against the Micro Body.
F. Seat the bullet by inserting it in the resized, primed,
charged case mouth and slowly running it up in the Die.
G. Check the cartridge for proper length. Turn the
micrometer setting to fine-adjust to the desired bullet
seating depth. The micro head will adjust in 0.001”
increments for very precise bullet depth alterations. Each
full revolution of the Micro Head equals 0.025".
2. The die is now ready to reliably seat bullets to consistently
accurate depths. Create live rounds following steps A through
G"
KMart
Gold $$ Contributor
On the seating die, take the return spring out and when seating the bullet, use a slow easy stroke. Pushing the bullet in the neck quickly one time and slowly the next will give you seating lengths all over the place.
How are you measuring your seating depth? Base to ogive of the bullet or base to tip of the bullet?
How are you measuring your seating depth? Base to ogive of the bullet or base to tip of the bullet?
Is this a new die? Sounds like you need the VLD seater stem OR the stem needs a polish. I have not had this issue with the 168 SMK and regular BR seater though. I have had a similar issue with the 6.5. ELDM where my seating depth was sh$t with rings and all and a new stem solved it. Call Forster, they will take care if you. I am sure of it.
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Lone Hunter
Silver $$ Contributor
What would be the answer to post #6? KMart posted it. I had to get the VLD seater stem for the Redding dies to eliminate the ring. As posted above you might also have to polish the stem also.
Jeff Porter
Gold $$ Contributor
The method of drawing out the hollow point tip will have a lot of variation even in SMK , Hornady and Nosler match bullets. Not uncommon to see .010” bullet lengths with these OTM bullets. The bullet base to ogive is typically less than 0.002” so if your seater is on the profile of the bullet and not the tip your cartridge base to ogive should be consistent.
If you are running a compressed load in a Forster you can fracture the seating cup and cause the results you are seeing.
I’m running 42 gr IMR 4064 for 308 pretty standard load.
Gargoyle
Finder Outer
Maybe I need the Redding VLD stem?
I use seating dies from many manufacturers, like 4 or 5 different ones for just the 308...
Forester are thin in the seating stem, and can be swaged out or split from seating even slight to moderately compressed loads ...face off a portion the thin seating stem in your lathe, grind a small carbide boring bar on your diamond grinding wheel..best method...(or HS tool on your bench grinder) to match the profile of the bullet your seating...setup in your lathe with a bullet in a collet ...move the tool post to block out all light...regrind tool if necessary. Bore you faced off and thicker seating stem to match your bullet...
Put some lapping compound on the bullet and lap the seating stem in the lathe to a perfect fit to your bullet. Compressed loads leave no seating mark on VLD, ATIPS, OR ELDM with this method, and seating stems are strong. I do this or part of this method to many dies ...even the Hornady special ELDM seater.
Forester are thin in the seating stem, and can be swaged out or split from seating even slight to moderately compressed loads ...face off a portion the thin seating stem in your lathe, grind a small carbide boring bar on your diamond grinding wheel..best method...(or HS tool on your bench grinder) to match the profile of the bullet your seating...setup in your lathe with a bullet in a collet ...move the tool post to block out all light...regrind tool if necessary. Bore you faced off and thicker seating stem to match your bullet...
Put some lapping compound on the bullet and lap the seating stem in the lathe to a perfect fit to your bullet. Compressed loads leave no seating mark on VLD, ATIPS, OR ELDM with this method, and seating stems are strong. I do this or part of this method to many dies ...even the Hornady special ELDM seater.
Bill Norris
Back in the Day
I use the Redding Micrometer and the Frankford Arsenal Micrometer seating dies with good results. Heavily Compressed loads can cause issues with most seating dies with random lengths. I find it best once the ram has reached it's highest point hold for a few seconds of dwell.
There is another option I've done in the past with compressed loads on a Dillon progressive with some success but don't over do it.
You can pre compress the powder charge, "some", with a neck mandrel for your caliber that doesn't interfere with your neck tension (I machined a die) pushing the powder down into the neck farther with a solid mandrel.. before seating the bullet, with your bullet seating die, to that depth. Trial & error as to how much to compress with the mandrel, but just enough not to work your seating stem....but it gets dicy when the powder is compressed to a solid ...I fear the burn characteristics have changed, if over done..plus the powder colum pushes back on the bullet causing the COAL to "grow" & be inconsistent. But it's a proceedure that works if not over done, and may help your existing problem with the seating stem that you have....check out your existing seating stem for damage, & repair or replace if needed. Then try a light precompression of the powder charge with a mandrel then index to seating die, where no extra resistance should be felt when seating, but not over done with the mandrel...a balance between the mandrel not over compressing the powder, and the seating stem barley working to seat the bullet.
Sometimes these stems simply have a burr or rough spot on them at the point of contact. Chuck your bullet of choice in a drill, apply some sort of lapping compound, i.e., Brownells, Flitz, Happich, etc, to the bullet and polish the seater stem, held in your other hand, until you are satisfied. Satisfaction can be either (1), yes, this worked fine, no more marks on my bullets, or, (2), satisfied that this isn't going to work, but I haven't really hurt anything, time to send it off for a 'pro' job or buy a different stem. The drill and your hand become your 'lathe'.
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