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forming .20 Tactical brass

Hi Guys,
Using new .223 Winchester brass.
Sizing in a .223 Rem body die first,All Redding dies).Next, using the # 1 forming die,it crushes the case below the shoulder when the die is adjusted to the shellholder.Todd from the Woodchuck Den said to adjust the die to the shell holder,apply Imperial wax on the front third of neck and just below the shoulder,no lube on shoulder.Most of the time it forms them good,but it still wrinkles below the shoulder at times.Backing the die off a quarter turn forms without a problem but has a slight ridge or bulge at shoulder.Both adjustments work very well in the next step,in the FL die.I don't have the rifle yet,it's being built at this time.I'm thinking with the die backed of a quarter turn and it forms good in the FL die,I'm good to go.The bulge will iron out during fire forming.What do you guys think?
Thanks for your time!Gary
'
 
I see in another post,to run the brass through a .223 die and then use a .20 Tac seater without the stem.And follow with the FL die.I have a Competition seater die,should'nt be any difference from a standard seating die for sizing purposes?
 
Gary,

Sorry I don't have any experience with that cartridge. But, if your pocketbook allows, you can buy Lapua 20 Tactical brass from Dakota Arms now.

Otherwise, if you don't get good directions from other Forum members, try over at www.Saubier.com . There are many 20 Tactical shooters on that forum.
 
gnaymola said:
I see in another post,to run the brass through a .223 die and then use a .20 Tac seater without the stem.And follow with the FL die.I have a Competition seater die,should'nt be any difference from a standard seating die for sizing purposes?

Yep, that way works as well....more than one way to skin a cat!


I just formed some 20 TAC using IMI brass and my 17Mach 4 form #1. I ran it up into the die until I felt it contact the shoulder. It works like a champ, as the first step to forming the 17M4 is to neck it down to .20 cal. I didn't use any lube and no shoulder dents were encountered either. I'm willing to bet that the 20 TAC form die and the 17 M4 form #1 are the same die.

Regarding sizing, no difference concerning seaters.


It's shame that Lapua match 223 is $36/100 and the Dakota Tac20 using the same parent brass is $54/100.
 
I just formed 50 cases using new Win brass - I lightly lubed and ran them into the Redding form die - screwed in to hit the shell holder. Then I ran them into the FL die, screwed in to hit the shellholder. I didn't have any forming problems, and they fire form nicely. I wouldn't worry about the neck, as long as you can chamber them you should be good to go........

tom
 

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