For the guys that pre-bore as much of the chamber as possible....
- Thread starter LVLAaron
- Start date
I’ve chucked or used a collet to hold the reamer and indicated the back side to set the compound angle as well.
Not possible obviously if a barrel is in.
And if you know your tail stock I suppose you could grab the reamer with that and indicate the front side.
I’m going to try that next time.
Not really....stick the pilot in the bore and the rear in a center....dial in a flute.Using a chuck makes sense... it's gonna be hard to get the reamer between centers if a barrel is in the chuck
I bore just short of the shoulder and large enough till the reamer shoulder starts.
That’s workable
I set my angle before I dial in a barrel. I go straight in for threads, Don't use compound.Using a chuck makes sense... it's gonna be hard to get the reamer between centers if a barrel is in the chuck
DaveTooley
Gold $$ Contributor
Astonishing nobody can do the Trig.
Wut's That? Haha
Not really, I didn't do it all for a long time, But it does save a lot of in and out and wear and tear and time.
I just prebore to save time.
I missed that day.
xr650rRider
Silver $$ Contributor
And after you do, you still have to set your compound to 1° 6' 4.23", I think post #3 mentioned Joe Pie method which is the trigonometry method. After 15 minutes of .0001" DTI interative process.............you realize, It doesn't make 1 damn bit of difference. The reamer will cut and establish that angle pretty quickly.
I was at a kegger that day
BuffaloBill
Silver $$ Contributor
This is how I’ve done it.
These days it's a "Two Caker" for me!
Just drill in 1'' for most cartridges, use a drill about .030 smaller than the major diameter of the reamer. The pilot will still engage the bore for support and alignment. Then I'll bore the drilled hole taking out only .005-.010 to ensure the drilled hole is concentric and aligned. The reamer is supported in the bore and at the mouth of the chamber which is now true.. Ream away. I'm sure there are dozens of ways to skin this cat
paperpuncher
Gold $$ Contributor
I bore it .010 under the the body shoulder junction dia. about .050" from finish depth. Then bore out the back to let the reamer enter the chamber a bit but still clean up. I use the tail stock with a center to partially establish the chamber. Now I switch to the Bryant style pusher and finish the chamber. I used to taper bore to give the reamer a "purchase" so the back end wasnt wobbling around. I found that the above method, for me works just as well with less fuss.
ARCTAN(0.06526/20) = 0.186955°
I didn't bother since my compound only has notches at 1° increments.
Dan-Schenk
Gold $$ Contributor
I’ve been loving these bars. They’re relatively inexpensive and easy to hone using a diamond knife sharpener.
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