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Fl or not ?

Fairly new to case prep , do you fl size new brass before firing ? Also do you fl size after each firing ? Or just neck size?
 
I full length resize every time. There are lots of others that only neck size. The decision is somewhat dependent on what game you are playing. I suspect that ultimate accuracy in single-shot rifles is most easily attained by neck sizing only. The downside is sticky cases/ hard bolt lift when the body of the case has expanded to "overfill" the chamber after firing. Full length resizing with a die that is setup for your rifle's chamber maximizes reliable operation at the expense of some level of accuracy (maybe). Magazine fed, rapid fire conditions benefit from the reliability of full length sized ammunition. Bolt guns function well with neck sized ammunition. Non-bolt guns (pumps, lever action, semi-automatics, etc) function better with full length sized ammunition.

The real answer is strictly your preference and the game that you are playing.

Cort
 
what kind of gun ?
single loaded ammo or not
what is ammo use..hunting or target....
lots of questings before USEFUL ANSWERS
 
I full-length re-size every round but minimally. Whether match at 1000 yards or hunting and every competitor I know does the same.
 
stool said:
what kind of gun ?
single loaded ammo or not
what is ammo use..hunting or target....
lots of questings before USEFUL ANSWERS
Sorry, I shoot ftr 300,600, 900 and 1000 yards , yes I single load , ammo lapua brass , cci primers and berger 155 and 185 hybrids
Thanks
 
Hillhunter said:
Fairly new to case prep, do you fl size new brass before firing? Also do you fl size after each firing? Or just neck size?

Buy only ONE sizing die per cartridge size and Always FULL LENGTH size new brass and after each firing. A Redding Type-S F/L die or similar die with a bushing cavity will fulfill all your needs for a lifetime. A variety of bushing will help, when fine tuning with neck tension.
 
This subject was just done (to death) a few day ago.

Read the whole 6 pages - they will answer all your question... and then some!

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3840627.0

And you will get an idea of how contentious a subject it is.
 
Dear CatShooter

I'm sorry and hate to have to say this but it looks like only you and Saddam Hussein's cat are the only ones who prefer neck sizing only.

image001_zps438c9233.gif














Bazinga!
smilingpig_zps21367739.jpg
 
CatShooter said:
This subject was just done (to death) a few day ago.

Read the whole 6 pages - they will answer all your question... and then some!

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3840627.0

And you will get an idea of how contentious a subject it is.
After reading the full six pages , I presume fl size new brass and after each firing , is this correct?
 
Hillhunter said:
CatShooter said:
This subject was just done (to death) a few day ago.

Read the whole 6 pages - they will answer all your question... and then some!

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/index.php?topic=3840627.0

And you will get an idea of how contentious a subject it is.
After reading the full six pages , I presume fl size new brass and after each firing , is this correct?

That is not how I do it.
 
It seems everyone has there own idea on this , thanks for the reply, I will just have to decide myself when I get more experience reloading
 
Hillhunter said:
It seems everyone has there own idea on this , thanks for the reply, I will just have to decide myself when I get more experience reloading

In case you want info from people whose claim to fame is measured in something other than internet postings ...

Three NBRSA Hall-of-Famers have written books on the subject -- Tony and Faye Boyer, and Mike Ratigan. Jack Neary (another HoFer) has several YouTube videos on case prep and tuning tips. All of these experienced, successful shooters in the accuracy game FL size, every time, with dies that properly fit resized brass to their chambers. Their strategy demands smooth, fast reloading with minimal bag disturbance. This may or may not apply to your situation.

FL sizing with a proper die doesn't cost anything in case life or accuracy. I'm no HoFer, but have shot in the zeros in registered BR, and FL sizing worked fine for me. At competitive BR pressures, cases will get tight sooner or later. Usually sooner. No fix for that except to FL size or start with new brass.
 
Hillhunter said:
Fairly new to case prep , do you fl size new brass before firing ? Also do you fl size after each firing ? Or just neck size?

I not only FL size everytime, but I also treat brand new brass exactly the same as brass with an unknown history - FL size, trim as needed, etc.
 
the clue to FULL LENGTH sizing..is in the fine print
DIES THAT MATCH YOUR CHAMBER....commercial dies are pretty much a waste of time.

there is no need to fl size for ftr ....

lets stir up the pot some more......

consider annealing every time with a chamber matched fl die

you can get a die matched to your brass..




tobybradshaw said:
Hillhunter said:
It seems everyone has there own idea on this , thanks for the reply, I will just have to decide myself when I get more experience reloading

In case you want info from people whose claim to fame is measured in something other than internet postings ...

Three NBRSA Hall-of-Famers have written books on the subject -- Tony and Faye Boyer, and Mike Ratigan. Jack Neary (another HoFer) has several YouTube videos on case prep and tuning tips. All of these experienced, successful shooters in the accuracy game FL size, every time, with dies that properly fit resized brass to their chambers. Their strategy demands smooth, fast reloading with minimal bag disturbance. This may or may not apply to your situation.

FL sizing with a proper die doesn't cost anything in case life or accuracy. I'm no HoFer, but have shot in the zeros in registered BR, and FL sizing worked fine for me. At competitive BR pressures, cases will get tight sooner or later. Usually sooner. No fix for that except to FL size or start with new brass.
 
I shoot F-Open, not F-T/R, but I would advise to F/L size every time. F/L sizing does not hurt accuracy at all, and I believe it might even help it. Neck sizing only will give you hard to chamber cases, and even worse, hard to extract cases. This will upset your setup break your concentration when you are trying to read flags and keep an eye on conditions.
 
I load for both F-Class disciplines. I full length size with properly adjusted factory dies with neck bushings. I adjust the dies for about .001 shoulder bump. Many of us believe it is important to support the case body when sizing necks. I also leave the tiniest amount of "float" in the neck bushings. Consistency is a huge part of accurate shooting and starting off with the proper procedures lessens the learning curve.

BTW, don't be put off asking questions, regardless if the question has been asked before or not. Many new members join the forum daily. Some of the guys with high post counts like to belittle questions if it has been done before. We are all here to learn and share.

Scott
 
If you neck size only, the only aspect of the case you are managing is the neck tension. Everything else is in an unknown state until such a time as you decide things are too tight and have to FL size to get everything consistent again.

Why not just skip the indeterminate and go right to consistent? I've never understood why there is any debate.

FL size with a properly adjusted bushing die every time. It's more consistent and less complicated to boot.

-nosualc
 
I shoot F-TR at 1000 yards; .308 Win, Lapua brass, 180gr JLKs, Varget and LR Russian primers.

I full length resize at every loading, AFTER the first loading. I only use a mandrel to round out the mouths on my virgin Lapua brass out of the box. Beyond that mandrel, Lapua virgin brass requires no other preparation steps; there is nothing worthwhile you can do to it to make it better. Let the virgin brass fire-form, find its proper size.

After the first firing, I measure the brass and then set my Redding Small Base Full Length S-Type bushing die to push the shoulder back about .001 from the fired dimension and then I lock it down for that batch. A batch for me is 500 rounds which I will load about 8 times and then a barrel change occurs and I start all over again with a new batch.

I anneal every time before resizing. I trim every 2-3 loading but that will change to every time once the Giraud on order comes in.

To paraphrase what Erik so wisely said, the last thing you want to have are cases that are hard to extract. I can open the bolt of my rifle with my thumb and the it slides back nicely. When I load the next cartridge, the bolt closes effortlessly and I do not have to break position at all. I can fire as fast as the target is scored, if I need to.

Also, full length sizing every time ensures that my cases are the same, load after load after load. Consistency is critical to me.

It's easy to recognize the neck sizers on the line; they are the ones who use a mallet to open their bolt. ;)
 
GO READ THE REPLIES....
some of the guys CLAIMING to FULL LENGTH resize very clearly say they are only BUMPING the shoulder .001......
that is NOT fl sizing.....that is partial sizing.
now ask these guys how they determine, time after time what .001 is ??
because the brass work hardens and will not respond the same ..........

i'll stick with my original answer
 

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