Fixed stock issue with Ruger American touching barrel

[Steelfingers]

Common, with these plastic stocks, the free floating barrel touch on the left fore end and front lower fore end. The lower touching is noticeable more when rifle resting on bi-pod.
Got the dremel out and took a bit off the bottom and left side of stock. Looks a bit rough but will clean up with fine sand paper later.
As you can see, I now have a free floated barrel (as it was designed). Pic is taken with rifle fore end on rest and have perfect clearance.

 

[jpx2rk]

I had to remove some material from the webbing/cross tie supports inside of my RAR fore end as well.

 

[Steelfingers]

I had to remove some material from the webbing/cross tie supports inside of my RAR fore end as well.

Thanks for replying JPX. How could you tell the webbing/cross tie supports were touching? I thought about that when I was working on mine. Wish I had just trimmed a bit. No way it could hurt it. Might just go ahead and do it tomorrow before I take it out.
Was it the ones at the very front of the fore end? Or did you do a few back?

 

[DHuffman]

Thanks for replying JPX. How could you tell the webbing/cross tie supports were touching? I thought about that when I was working on mine. Wish I had just trimmed a bit. No way it could hurt it. Might just go ahead and do it tomorrow before I take it out.
Was it the ones at the very front of the fore end? Or did you do a few back?

Take a dollar bill and holding each end bring it up to the bottom of the barrel and pull the ends up so it slides between the stock and barrel and see if it goes freely all the way back to the recoil lug. You'll feel the resistance where it's touching.

 

[Steelfingers]

Take a dollar bill and holding each end bring it up to the bottom of the barrel and pull the ends up so it slides between the stock and barrel and see if it goes freely all the way back to the recoil lug. You'll feel the resistance where it's touching.

Thanks. Appreciate the response.

 

[DHuffman]

Thanks. Appreciate the response.

No problem, I've almost bought an RAR or RAP several times but could never get past the stock.

 

[Steelfingers]

Plan on changing stocks anyway. Either the LSS or Boyd's At one. When I do, I'm going to try a swirl dip paint job on the factory stock. I've been curious about doing one of these and that would be a great excuse.
Might even do some experimenting on the stock, like firming up the fore end with epoxy in the channels.

 

[jpx2rk]

Mine was actually "crushing" or bending a small flap of the webbing over and left a slight rub mark on the bottom of the barrel, matched the spots up.

 

[DHuffman]

Plan on changing stocks anyway. Either the LSS or Boyd's At one. When I do, I'm going to try a swirl dip paint job on the factory stock. I've been curious about doing one of these and that would be a great excuse.
Might even do some experimenting on the stock, like firming up the fore end with epoxy in the channels.

Plan on changing stocks anyway. Either the LSS or Boyd's At one. When I do, I'm going to try a swirl dip paint job on the factory stock. I've been curious about doing one of these and that would be a great excuse.
Might even do some experimenting on the stock, like firming up the fore end with epoxy in the channels.

Best mod to these "Tupperware" stocks is throw them in the trash just as soon as you can swing something better! Time is better spent tuning a good stock IMHO!

 

[Steelfingers]

I think you're right about giving up on this stock. Took it to the range today and figured out two things. 1. This stock sucks. 2. My gun hates 140 grain Hornady Black Box 6.5 creed.
I sure like the Boyd's At one stock, made for the Ruger American short action. It looks great, with great options and price. Just not sure about the stock because it's only been available for a few months. Can't find any reviews from people that have used them and if they were satisfied. Pro's and Cons are slim.
This is a bench gun and that's what I'll be using it for mostly. Would like to know what mods will need to be done to optimize it.
On the other hand, I've considered the LSS Chassis. I know this will run like a scalded cat but it's hard to rationalize spending twice the price of the gun on chassis and stock. (LSS runs about $400.00 without stock, grip or tube).
I really need some feedback from you guys. Lots of talent here and maybe you, or one of your shooting friends can give me some thoughts.
I would greatly appreciate any help I can get.
This was intended to be a middle of the ground budget gun. Ended up putting a Timney trigger and some good glass on it but this stock issue is really holding me up.
It's the Ruger American Predator in 6.5 creed and it's my first in this cal. I know zero about the creed but did my homework/research and think I made a good selection even though it's not showing up as results.
Here's a pic of a quick trip to the range after trimming the stock to not touch the barrel at 100 yards.
Group one, lower left, were cold shooting. Center is after getting settled. Top right next shots, then lower right (shot a few here) and then ended top left with the barrel pretty hot.
I'm a very good shot with either rifle or handgun. Have been shooting for over 50 years. Just perplexed as to what to do.
Again, thanks for any help, suggestions and feedback on the two stock options I'm considering.

 

[Steelfingers]

Posted the wrong pic. This is the one today.

 

[DHuffman]

I checked Choate's website and seeing nothing for your rifle I would get the Boyd's and if you don't feel capable of doing a good bed job on it I would pay a good smith to do it. I put an old Mosin Nagant in a Boyd's tactical once and even without bedding, shooting spam can mil surp ammo it was a great improvement.

If you haven't tried several different types of factory ammo with it I would do that first. You may not of found the ammo it likes yet. Your stock may be fine, I doubt it but you never know until you try all available factory offerings or do several load work ups reloading.

 

[savagedasher]

You can't hurt it by taking to much out. It's already junk. Larry

 

[Steelfingers]

I've already tried the 120 match that it likes and shoots well. I suppose to go to a friends house to load a few different to test out, but I don't wan't to start that process until I get everything on line with the gun.

 

[DHuffman]

I've already tried the 120 match that it likes and shoots well. I suppose to go to a friends house to load a few different to test out, but I don't wan't to start that process until I get everything on line with the gun.

I would be shooting the 120 match round then and using that as a round to judge improvement in changes made.

Chasing 1 hole accuracy with a factory barrel can be frustrating to say the least and I'm not knocking anybodys budget/project rifle but there is usually only so much accuracy to be had with a $400 rifle. I've started out with enough cheap Savages to make that statement.

You start with a cheap rifle, buy a stock, barrel, glass, maybe get some action work done, shoot hundreds of rounds in load development. Then if you're on your game you can consistently shoot the one hole (all holes touching) groups.

These guys on the Internet shooting 1 hole groups with cheap rifles and factory ammo "all day long" may be exaggerating a little.

If it will shoot that 120 match sub .6 or .7 consistently I would be shooting it.

 

[DHuffman]

You can't hurt it by taking to much out. It's already junk. Larry

Good advice here!

 

[Steelfingers]

Thanks. I know my limitations and my guns limits. I am impressed with the Ruger and still learning about the 6.5. Just trying to get the optimal performance out of the build. After that, I will probably upgrade to a true precision bolt...or maybe not.
The internet has it's good parts too. This site is on the internet. That's good.
But as far as these guys shooting aces and sub's at 300, I don't bite.
I've shot enough, with good and bad guns, to know what's real world. Reviews are good and mod demo's are even better. That's why I was hoping for some first hand knowledge on the At one. The LSS is great, but it should be at the price. The Boyd's is less than 200 delivered. The boyd's has interchangeable grips that are suppose to be more like a tactical rather than a hunting grip. Don't know how much more, but more.
I tend to ramble and I'm doing it now.
Suggestions/reviews on the At One or Lss Chassis appreciated.
Thanks to all.

 

[savagedasher]

Thanks. I know my limitations and my guns limits. I am impressed with the Ruger and still learning about the 6.5. Just trying to get the optimal performance out of the build. After that, I will probably upgrade to a true precision bolt...or maybe not.
The internet has it's good parts too. This site is on the internet. That's good.
But as far as these guys shooting aces and sub's at 300, I don't bite.
I've shot enough, with good and bad guns, to know what's real world. Reviews are good and mod demo's are even better. That's why I was hoping for some first hand knowledge on the At one. The LSS is great, but it should be at the price. The Boyd's is less than 200 delivered. The boyd's has interchangeable grips that are suppose to be more like a tactical rather than a hunting grip. Don't know how much more, but more.
I tend to ramble and I'm doing it now.
Suggestions/reviews on the At One or Lss Chassis appreciated.
Thanks to all.

Stockey stock arent all bad . Larry

 

[Steelfingers]

Stockey stock arent all bad . Larry

I don't think they make one for the Ruger American center fire.

 

[savagedasher]

I don't think they make one for the Ruger American center fire.

Call them Larry