Fitting barrelled action to barrel channel

[memilanuk]

Hello all,

I've got a barreled action that I'm having trouble fitting in the stock I have been using. Previously the action (Savage 10FP) fitted with a L-W 24" varmint contour barrel fit in the barrel channel of the stock (Stockade Prairie Dog Special). More recently I purchased a 28" pre-threaded-n-chambered barrel that is nominally also a varmint contour, but its a bit heavier further down the length (what I wanted at the time).

The problem is that the new heavier contoured barrel contacts the barrel channel close to the tip of the stock.

If it were a wood stock, I would have already opened it up a tad, re-sealed it, and been back to the range already. Being as its a fiberglass stock... I'm a bit apprehensive about doing much sanding on the stock for fear of sanding through the 'glass.

I've had one person say "don't worry, it's not really structural in that area".... and pretty much every one else looks at me like I'm insane for even considering it.

What other options do I have? Bed the action 'up' a little to give the barrel enough clearance? Something else?

Thanks,

Monte

 

[WayneShaw]

Do what that person said, sand it out for clearance a little oversize and mix some epoxy to reseal it. There isn't much structural value there.

 

[Kenny474]

First off, call Stockade and see what they have for a solution. They may be able to modify it for you, that way you know the stock has not been compromised in any way. Having the guys that built it modify it will be the way to go, if they will do it. Then you know that whoever is working on it knows exactly how the stock is built, exactly what materials to use to get the best results and also has the equipment to bring it back to factory specs as far as finish is concerned.

If it were me, and I wanted to do it myself, I would open the barrel channel up a bit, going a bit further than necessary, and then either re-glass it and add a layer of Devcon or just add a layer of Devcon. Or use body filler with fiberglass in it (Bondo Hair) and coat it with Devcon after. I personally wouldn't raise the action any higher than it is, as that will raise the center of gravity and possibly change how it rides the bags.

The stock is foam with fiberglass laid over it, so it's not hollow. All you will really lose is the gel coat that is over the fiberglass if you try it yourself.

But your best bet is to call Stockade and see if they will modify it or can tell you who will.

Stockade Stocks: 308-432-5114

 

[memilanuk]

The stock is foam with fiberglass laid over it, so it's not hollow. All you will really lose is the gel coat that is over the fiberglass if you try it yourself.

I don't have any experience with fiberglass... but I imagine that it's probably not totally beyond me. The big question in my mind was how much strength (if any) I would loose by breaching the original fiberglass shell. If there's no major concern (at least given the location... I may consider taking on the project myself.

But your best bet is to call Stockade and see if they will modify it or can tell you who will.

I'll have to give Kevin a buzz. I've had the stock for a number of years, so my first reaction wasn't to bug him with something that popped up later on.

 

[Kenny474]

I don't think you will lose much, if any, structural integrity where it is towards the end of the stock.

How long is the area to be relieved, and how deep do you need to go?

If it's a small area that's not very deep, you could mix some J-B Weld and use that to fill the area and just sand and file it to shape after and touch up the paint.

Another material you could use is Quick Steel, though I am not sure it's the best for the job if it's a large area to be filled. It's an epoxy that comes in a tube and is basically a "stick" of 2 part epoxy with steel dust mixed in. It's kind of like thick dough and dries rock hard.
I have used quick steel for all kinds of projects and repairs. It dries hard as a rock, and can be drilled, tapped and machined if necessary.

If the area is a bit larger, or you don't like the other 2 products, you can use Bondo-Glass. It is plastic body filler with short strand fiberglass mixed in. It's easy to use and inexpensive. Just follow the directions on the can and have several grades of sand paper, from 80 or 100 up to 400 grit, to finish it after it dries.

Bondo glass is a good product and dries very strong as well. You will also need some regular bondo to fill any small voids left in the bondo-glass. Don't use spot putty. The stuff is horrible.

If you can post a picture and illustrate the area to be relieved I can give you a better idea of what will work best.

Good luck
Kenny

If you were any closer I would offer to do it for you. I like working with stuff like that.

 

[X Ring Accuracy]

Pick your favorite deep well socket that fits the channel, wrap sandpaper around it and sand....................and sand some more. Check for fit, sand more if neccessary. No worries, seal if you choose to.