Hello All,
Figured I would introduce myself. I have been hunting since I was 12 years old, and I just got out of college. I'm now a mechanical design engineer. I've always enjoyed building different things, one of my biggest hobbies is building race engines. Once I got my full-time job I decided to add another hobby; shooting.
Like I said I have been shooting off and on since I was 12, but I am by no means a hawk-eye.
So, I figured the best way to learn how to shoot well is to start with a rifle that will shoot better than I can. Right now I know I am good to a around 1/2 MOA with my dads savage .204 ruger. Its just a bone-stock m12 (laminate and stainless is 12? i think...) with an accutrigger and savage's stock varmint barrel.
My current build is as follows:
-M110 Action
-Lothar Walther Barrel, 7mm Weatherby Magnum SAAMI spec chamber, Custom Contour (like a heavy palma, but only 26" long), 1:9" twist, Hardass LW50 Stainless
- Badger Ordnance FTE muzzle brake
- Rifle Basix Sav-2 Triqqer
- Boyd's Varmint Stock, I inletted the magwell and installed tool steel pillars, also bedded magwell and action with Quicksteel
I plan on setting the barrel up right at around .0015" Headspace off of my headspace gauge.
One of the big things I was not privy too (due to my own ignorance) before ordering my barrel is the large
amount of free bore in the weatherby cartridges.
I was planning on shooting 168 grain SMK's for my first load work up. Has anyone been able to get these SMK's up to the lands on a SAAMI weatherby chamber?
Should I be trying to get these on the lands?
Also... once I fire form my brass to the chamber, should I be using a full length resizing die? I've heard I should be only bumping the shoulder on the neck back around .001" to prevent work hardening my brass.
My current plan is to make all flash holes and primer pockets uniform, and try to hold concentricity to around .001" and hold my powder loads to +/- .1 grain. I'm not sure how ready I am to get into reloading with a focus on optimizing neck tension and what not, that may be alittle farther down the road. My current goal is to be around 1/2 MOA @ 300 yards after some load development. With this kind of reloading regiment, is this reasonable goal or a pipe dream?
I'm sure these question's are pretty novice for here, but please bear with me. I've been searching alot of different post and am getting slightly confused on what is really necessary.
Thanks in advance,
Bryson
Figured I would introduce myself. I have been hunting since I was 12 years old, and I just got out of college. I'm now a mechanical design engineer. I've always enjoyed building different things, one of my biggest hobbies is building race engines. Once I got my full-time job I decided to add another hobby; shooting.
Like I said I have been shooting off and on since I was 12, but I am by no means a hawk-eye.
So, I figured the best way to learn how to shoot well is to start with a rifle that will shoot better than I can. Right now I know I am good to a around 1/2 MOA with my dads savage .204 ruger. Its just a bone-stock m12 (laminate and stainless is 12? i think...) with an accutrigger and savage's stock varmint barrel.
My current build is as follows:
-M110 Action
-Lothar Walther Barrel, 7mm Weatherby Magnum SAAMI spec chamber, Custom Contour (like a heavy palma, but only 26" long), 1:9" twist, Hardass LW50 Stainless
- Badger Ordnance FTE muzzle brake
- Rifle Basix Sav-2 Triqqer
- Boyd's Varmint Stock, I inletted the magwell and installed tool steel pillars, also bedded magwell and action with Quicksteel
I plan on setting the barrel up right at around .0015" Headspace off of my headspace gauge.
One of the big things I was not privy too (due to my own ignorance) before ordering my barrel is the large
amount of free bore in the weatherby cartridges.
I was planning on shooting 168 grain SMK's for my first load work up. Has anyone been able to get these SMK's up to the lands on a SAAMI weatherby chamber?
Should I be trying to get these on the lands?
Also... once I fire form my brass to the chamber, should I be using a full length resizing die? I've heard I should be only bumping the shoulder on the neck back around .001" to prevent work hardening my brass.
My current plan is to make all flash holes and primer pockets uniform, and try to hold concentricity to around .001" and hold my powder loads to +/- .1 grain. I'm not sure how ready I am to get into reloading with a focus on optimizing neck tension and what not, that may be alittle farther down the road. My current goal is to be around 1/2 MOA @ 300 yards after some load development. With this kind of reloading regiment, is this reasonable goal or a pipe dream?
I'm sure these question's are pretty novice for here, but please bear with me. I've been searching alot of different post and am getting slightly confused on what is really necessary.
Thanks in advance,
Bryson