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First barrel finished

Hi I'm a younger member who turned into a machinist out of highschool awhile back on here I posted about making a spider for a outboard and with help from you guys I made one up for my dad's lathe forgot a setup pick though but from reading books and articles on here just because I like gaining all the knowledge I can and help from my dad who has experience in this watching me I was able to fit a brux bull sporter contour to a older push feed m70 in good old 30.06 and was excited so had to post it for anymore pointers still needs the sporter stock opened up and blued though am happy so far threads on real smooth and recessed crown looks nice and perfectly even
 

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Looks great! What kind of lathe are you using?

The threading looks a little chattery, not to a bad degree that would affect function, but enough to notice. Are you using carbide? HSS? I think a more positive rake grind on the tool or a sharper type of insert would help a lot.

A surprising number of people don’t realize they can hone their carbide inserts sharper with a $20 diamond sharpener from Harbor Freight or Home Depot. A nice sharp threading insert and using the compound instead of the cross slide for threading really helps prevent chatter.
 
Looks great! What kind of lathe are you using?

The threading looks a little chattery, not to a bad degree that would affect function, but enough to notice. Are you using carbide? HSS? I think a more positive rake grind on the tool or a sharper type of insert would help a lot.

A surprising number of people don’t realize they can hone their carbide inserts sharper with a $20 diamond sharpener from Harbor Freight or Home Depot. A nice sharp threading insert and using the compound instead of the cross slide for threading really helps prevent chatter.

It's a grizzly lathe he's had for years were I was able to work through the headstock and I was using a shars threading tool with carbide I think if I would have spun faster would have been smoother but was nervous to with no stops was all having to disengage by hand on time
 
Toptom, if your lathe will allow you to thread in reverse, you can run whatever speed you want and not have to worry about disengaging at a "chicken groove". can thread right up to the shoulder if you want.
 
Toptom, if your lathe will allow you to thread in reverse, you can run whatever speed you want and not have to worry about disengaging at a "chicken groove". can thread right up to the shoulder if you want.

I did research that is something that I will for sure try next time but when you run that way I take it you need a left hand threading tool to turn upside down for clearance if I'm right I tried it with my right hand and would have hit the shoulder
 
Toptom, if your lathe will allow you to thread in reverse, you can run whatever speed you want and not have to worry about disengaging at a "chicken groove". can thread right up to the shoulder if you want.
This guy speaks wisdom.

Like I said, absolutely nothing wrong with those threads functionally or even in appearance. The crests are pretty clean and the flanks look generally smooth - it’s that “micro-chatter” or “shadow chatter” I like to call it sometimes that catches really well in photos but not very well by eye. I’m OCD, so take my comments with a grain of salt.

Overall though - I salute you. My first barrel was a sewer pipe compared to that!
 
This guy speaks wisdom.

Like I said, absolutely nothing wrong with those threads functionally or even in appearance. The crests are pretty clean and the flanks look generally smooth - it’s that “micro-chatter” or “shadow chatter” I like to call it sometimes that catches really well in photos but not very well by eye. I’m OCD, so take my comments with a grain of salt.

Overall though - I salute you. My first barrel was a sewer pipe compared to that!

Thanks guys it means allot was always on my bucket list always grew up around guns and was able to do my first at 25 years old now hope is if it shoots good maybe rebarrel my Savage lrp I shoot benchrest with when it wares out it's aftermarket already
 
I love "chicken grooves".
Call me a pussy :). I see no reason to risk threading right up to a shoulder when it's absolutely not necessary.

Besides, unless you're gonna grind your own, offset, HSS cutter you can't get right up to the shoulder with a 16 tpi cutter and a relief cut is a must.
 
You have to start somewhere.

Good machine shop practice is something that never goes out of style.

As a machinist with well over 50 years of experience, the best piece of advice I can give you is what I was taught from my Dad......In any endeavor, especially machine shop work, knowing how to do things will only get you so far. The real knowledge comes from learning WHY you do things. Learning why you do things peels away much of the mystery that baffles so many.
 
Reminds me of my earlier builds...heavier barrels! Now I like #3 and lighter contours, no more than .650 muzzle and lighter...they still shoot just as well as the heavier ones for hunting.

Good job and I bet it will shoot well for you. Get Richard Franklin’s video on bedding (his barreling video is excellent too) and you’ll increase your learning curve immensely....your jobs will look as nice as anyone’s VERY soon!
 
Feel free to ask as many questions as you need.There are some smart gunsmiths on here that are more than willing to help.Your reverse idea is a good one ,then you can experiment with speeds and such to get the finish you want without the stress.I hope the barrel shoots as good as it looks.
 
I did research that is something that I will for sure try next time but when you run that way I take it you need a left hand threading tool to turn upside down for clearance if I'm right I tried it with my right hand and would have hit the shoulder
With a Grizzly you have to be careful threading in reverse about taking a big bite and unscrewing the chuck
 

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