Firing pin trouble

[TroyMN]

This is a used rifle. I was testing and adjusting the trigger. I had a new primmer in to test and Click....?
The bolt assemble was previously disassembled and polished. I cleaned the old grease looking lube off the spring. I reassembled with wd40. I also put Teflon tape on the shroud threads as listed in one of the articles on the main page. I greased the cocking ramps and back of the locking lugs. The firing pin protrudes .045" in the fired position. I replaced this (pin, spring, shroud) assembly with one off my SPS It fired fine, 3 for 3. I then put the assembly in question in the sps and it fired 2 for 2. The body it did not work in is a Magnum bolt face, the other SPS is a std bolt face. The guide part of the firing pin is not getting hung up because the pin that worked is .001+ wider than the one that did not.
Thoughts? The pin looked to be moving slow, but I can not be sure. Why would it work in one bolt body and rifle and not the other?

Thanks for your help Troy

 

[Thud]

Possible crud in bolt body and something is binding in pin hole. Spray out body not just spring.

 

[treeman]

don't use WD-40 on moving parts check pin protrusion in both bolts and make sure the brass is long enough to hold primer against bolt face

 

[Gundoktr]

You are .010" short of minimum firing pin protrusion in that bolt. Giveme a call, maybe we can figure something out.

Jim

 

[okedoke]

it could be the teflon tape in the sear guide channel milled into the threads on the bottom of the shroud, to much tape is a bad thing good day Craig

 

[TroyMN]

And the winner is.......

it could be the teflon tape in the sear guide channel milled into the threads on the bottom of the shroud, to much tape is a bad thing good day Craig

It turns out i put one or two wraps of Teflon tape right across that groove that should be open for the sear. I must have inadvertently cut off a little bit when I switched it to the other bolt body. That is why the pin worked in the SPS body. I removed all the Teflon tape and am going to skip that idea.
Thank you all very much for your replies. I appreciate the help.

I still have a question regarding WD-40 on the spring and pin. I read you should use lighter fluid but not having any, one other posting said some WD-40 should work.

 

[Hal]

I wouldn't use WD 40 for anything on a gun. There are alot better oils on the market. G-96 is a good one , there are several others.

Use lighter fluid to clean your triggger, and blow the trigger dry.

Hal

 

[Lapua40X]

I wouldn't use WD 40 for anything on a gun. There are alot better oils on the market. G-96 is a good one , there are several others.

Use lighter fluid to clean your trigger, and blow the trigger dry.

Hal

Amen ... there is nothing on a properly cared for gun that needs WD40. It was originally developed as a solvent or rust dissolver, not as a lubricant.

 

[CatShooter]

I wouldn't use WD 40 for anything on a gun.

When WD-40 first came out, it was advertised as a protective oil - I sprayed a 9mm Browning High Power with it (it was my carry gun).

About a year later, I was at the range with some friends, and one started pistol shooting - so I joined in and my Browning High Power went "Click".

The firing pin was glued in place with a brown goo. Needless to say, I went chalk white at the thought that I might have needed the pistol for the reason I carried it When I got home, I checked my other pistold, and none of the ones that had been sprayed, would fire a primer.

They do not advertise it as a lubricant anymore... it is a rust preventive, and if you pour some in a flat saucer and let the solvent evaporate, you will be left with a brown varnish like substance.

G-96 is a good one

Nectar of the Gods...

 

[savagedasher]

WD 40 was built for aircraft W D stands for water displacement. The 40 stand 40Th attempt.
Is not an oil that is why it should never be used on guns. Larry

 

[Eddie Harren]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WD-40

You can click on this link for the truth.