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Fireforming Load for 22 Dasher

I need to fireform some new brass for my 22 Dasher from Lapua 6 BR. Going over my inventory of powders I don't use, I have 3# of W760 which sits between Varget and H4350.

My plan is to false shoulder the 6BR brass using my 22 Dasher bushing then use 88 ELDMs.

Anyone ever used w760 in this capacity or got an idea where to start?
 
I need to fireform some new brass for my 22 Dasher from Lapua 6 BR. Going over my inventory of powders I don't use, I have 3# of W760 which sits between Varget and H4350.

My plan is to false shoulder the 6BR brass using my 22 Dasher bushing then use 88 ELDMs.

Anyone ever used w760 in this capacity or got an idea where to start?
mbeaver1;
I know it isn't the powder that you don't use anymore however, below is the only 22 Dasher Fireforming info:
From:
Precision Shooting Magazine

February, 1999
Make sure the rear of the bolt lugs are well lubricated with grease, to prevent galling.

FIRE FORMING LOAD:

55grn. Bullet
H322 Powder 30.0(Max load for 22BR) to 32.0grn

Pressure is too low:
Resulting in rounded case corners, increase powder weight until fulling formed corners with no signs of pressure.
 
Not a 22 Dasher but close. I Fire formed my 22 Brx Lapua brass, false shoulder, 75g Elds, 5 thou jam with 31g of Varget. It shot very well FIRE Forming. I sarted at 29g worked up to 31 and quit when the shoulders looked good.
 
I don't have a .22 Dasher, but I'd venture a guess that W760/H414 would be a little on the slow side for the initial form. A faster powder like Varget or IMR 4895 would probably produce better results. These powders build pressure more quickly than W760 and might yield sharper shoulders and a more consistent length.

I have formed 6 Dasher brass using a false shoulder with Bullseye or Clays with NO filler in the case, and just enough tissue in the neck to keep things from getting messy. Half a case full, maybe a little more, of either does a pretty good job and you save the bullets with this method. If you decide to try this, make sure you keep your barrel pointed skyward to keep the powder where it belongs.
 
I used 26gr Surplus 8208 and 80gr Bullet seated to jam length. Brass formed well but there was pressure as bolt lift was a little heavy.
I am no fan of the pistol powder method.
If you wish to conserve bullets, try hydro forming. John Whidden sells the Hydro-Form kits.
 
I used 26gr Surplus 8208 and 80gr Bullet seated to jam length. Brass formed well but there was pressure as bolt lift was a little heavy.
I am no fan of the pistol powder method.
If you wish to conserve bullets, try hydro forming. John Whidden sells the Hydro-Form kits.
Not sure how this saves bullets. It still requires firing.
 
Not sure how this saves bullets. It still requires firing.
Indeed, firing a bullet does cause the loss of the projectile.
Hydro-forming is an alternative.

I have a surplus of 80gr bullets that for reasons unknown will not group in my rifle. Regretfully, this discovery was proven after many hours of testing and some percentage of wasted valuable life on a great shooting 7.5 twist Krieger. These 80gr. bullets that are incapable of shooting a 6 or 7 tenths Agg have become expendable at this time. In a different barrel, they might be the greatest bullet ever made.

JEFFPPC, for me, I do not care for the method of fire-forming with pistol or shot gun powder. There was a bunch of testing back around 2000 or 2001 on this technique. There were findings that barrel throat erosion was still occurring without firing a bullet. This is the reason I don't use this technique.
 

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