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fireforming barrel?

Debating on getting a fireforming barrel done for my 30br. I have my own reamer . I was wondering I could use any wore out 30cal barrel? does barrel length matter? Or what action I put it on?

Now the other question is brass prep? Do I trim them to 1.5 before fireforming? Also do I turn before or after?

Also what powders could be used and how much? I would hate to use H4198 as I've been trying to find some for ages and it is scarce.

Thanks
 
Any worn out barrel. Your just looking for a good chamber match.
I fire form with cheap bullets and a charge that is 10% lower then
my match load. As for trimming. I trim to SAMMI length before
forming. On my wild cats, I do a chamber cast to see where I need
to be for trim length. Ball powders tend to be cheaper, so look up
a burn rate chart and find a close match for a givin' book load.
 
Thanks.

I think I'll find a cheap Remington 700 or a savage action to put the barrel on.

What about neck turning? Before or after fireforming?
 
I use custom actions and its no problem for me. I use one of my old barrels that has lost accuracy. I just screw it onto my action and unscrew it to put my good barrel back on. But that would be a problem with factory actions
 
Id get the barrel made for the action your use to make sure headspacing is the same.

Wore out barrel is the ticket, just need the same chamber. Barrel length doesnt matter.

Powder charge doesnt matter as long as its safe. COW charges would work.

I dont trim before a first firing as brass moves when your FF.

As brass moves when you FF, Id be looking at cleaning up neck wall thickness after FF
 
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Best to turn necks with NEW brass. Trim after fully fire formed if you can do so (measure your chamber length to know). This, because the necks will pull back some as the shoulders improve to chamber.
 
I use custom actions and its no problem for me. I use one of my old barrels that has lost accuracy. I just screw it onto my action and unscrew it to put my good barrel back on. But that would be a problem with factory actions
I'm using a Borden BRM for my good barrel but was hoping not to have to switch barrels back and forth if I could help it . Is it possible to mimmic the headspace on another action?
 
I do that quite often with a Borden BR in 6ppc. and also on a Panda. I use a rear entry action wrench from Jim and a Davidson barrel vise. I have 4 barrels for my borden chambered with the same reamer plus one that I use to form 220R for my ppc. I put a very little bolt grease on the sholder of the barrel where it bottoms out on the action and give it a good pull with just the action wrench when it bottoms out. The sholder bump ETC on all my loads are perfect for each barrel. You may want to ask Jim and see what he says. I hope things work out for you
 
The amount of cat brass I form in a year, and expecting to
increase. I may do a water jacket cooled barrel similar to
what Shiraz Bololia came up with. I can't get the link posted
but he has a tube video up on it.
 
If you have a fireforming barrel dont worry about the heat. Ive formed 100 ppc cases nonstop and melted paint before. Who cares if you wear it out? If your chamber is tight enough you can form with a 6mm bullet loaded as a light 6br, then expand that last little bit and turn the necksi wouldnt trim until they get past 1.510 until they get fully formed then do it back to 1.5
 
If you have a fireforming barrel dont worry about the heat. Ive formed 100 ppc cases nonstop and melted paint before. Who cares if you wear it out? If your chamber is tight enough you can form with a 6mm bullet loaded as a light 6br, then expand that last little bit and turn the necksi wouldnt trim until they get past 1.510 until they get fully formed then do it back to 1.5
The question about trimming first is because 6br brass is 1.560 so do I fireform it that way when it's already too long for the chamber? If I need to trim ? How much? Do I turn first if so to what thickness?
 
It's a .331nk with a 1.510 length. Which is why I was asking about trimming as well as if I remember right factory 6br brass is longer than that?
Most of it comes out to 1.505 so fireforming should be good, once fireformed I trim mine back to 1.50. Good luck!! You'll be fine!
 
Thanks. What should I turn to first? 10 thousandths?
Okay, here is what I do, seat a bullet and mike the loaded case, you will want a loaded round of .329 (2 thou Clearence) say the unturned case measures .338 (it won't but number for illustration) then you know you need to take off .009 (do this in steps not all at one time) take some off size the case load a bullet and measure as you go and you'll get a feel for how much to take off, okay, am I clear as mud now? :p
 
Won't let me edit, what I failed to mention is bullets will have a different pressure ring (like the bullet will measure .3085 or .3086) and this is why you can't just say "I'll turn to .010", it may need to be .0975 dependent on pressure ring.
 
Won't let me edit, what I failed to mention is bullets will have a different pressure ring (like the bullet will measure .3085 or .3086) and this is why you can't just say "I'll turn to .010", it may need to be .0975 dependent on pressure ring.
I get it. Thanks.

Is it possible to turn after fireforming ? I'm assuming if so there would still be a slight bit of expanding needed?
 
I get it. Thanks.

Is it possible to turn after fireforming ? I'm assuming if so there would still be a slight bit of expanding needed?
You may need to turn before ever loading which is why i go the 6mm route. It puts the shoulder in the right spot so i turn to the right spot first time and avoid the donut
 
You may need to turn before ever loading which is why i go the 6mm route. It puts the shoulder in the right spot so i turn to the right spot first time and avoid the donut
I was thinking of fireforming with a 6mm bullet or possibly without a bullet .

I know once ready for a 30cal bullet it will need turned.
 

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