I'm going to rechamber and set the barrel back on a .308 SPS after truing the action and installing a new .250" trued recoil lug. I'm thinking of fire lapping this factory barrel before any of this work begins as it seems to me the "negative" aspect of fire lapping is moving the throat forward and this will be corrected by the set back and rechamber. Your thoughts or experiences please...
Fire lap and Set back
- Thread starter VooDooMagic
- Start date
must have scared everyone off with this question...
Really thought I'd provoke more (number of) insightful, experienced responses with a question like that, thanks Kenny and Preacher for weighing in. Must not have hit any "hot buttons" this time...
VooDoo, you have to remember this site is pretty much filled with guys who own extremely accurate full on custom rifles capable of .25MOA accuracy or better. Most probably never keep a factory barrel long enough to care about it, especially an inaccurate or rough one, so have likely never gone through the trouble of fire-lapping.
It does work well in many instances, and is easier than hand-lapping. I have hand-lapped a barrel once before, and I will take Tubb's Final Finish any day of the week over it. You will eat up a little throat, but your set-back and rechamber will handle that with no problem. With hand lapping you run the risk of belling out the muzzle, as you continually reverse the lap right there so it gets more lapping than other areas. I have heard of ways around it, I prefer to avoid it all together.
Just do it and don't worry about it. I'm sorry if I sound insensitive, but it's only a factory tube. I have gambled a barrel a lot harder to replace barrel than that, ever try finding a new barrel for a 50yr old Rem 740 30-06? I would have needed one had I messed it up. It still shoots though so I guess I'm safe.
Preacher is a smart guy as well. If you want to try hand lapping shoot him a pm and see if he will guide you through it.
Good luck either way.
It does work well in many instances, and is easier than hand-lapping. I have hand-lapped a barrel once before, and I will take Tubb's Final Finish any day of the week over it. You will eat up a little throat, but your set-back and rechamber will handle that with no problem. With hand lapping you run the risk of belling out the muzzle, as you continually reverse the lap right there so it gets more lapping than other areas. I have heard of ways around it, I prefer to avoid it all together.
Just do it and don't worry about it. I'm sorry if I sound insensitive, but it's only a factory tube. I have gambled a barrel a lot harder to replace barrel than that, ever try finding a new barrel for a 50yr old Rem 740 30-06? I would have needed one had I messed it up. It still shoots though so I guess I'm safe.
Preacher is a smart guy as well. If you want to try hand lapping shoot him a pm and see if he will guide you through it.
Good luck either way.
It works well for a factory gun , I did a Savage heavy barrel in 308 then rechambered to 300 win mag and it shot very well , sub 1/2moa and would take 15-20 shots before any effect on accuracy was noticed.
On rechambering a rem , I suggest if you have the barrel shank to remove ALL of the old threads and totaly rechread the chamber , set the barrel up and indicate off the bore then make a few very lite passes with a boring bar to make 100" sure that the remaining chamber is strait so that the reamer will follow the bore not the old possible crooked chamber
If your doing a full "blue print" to the action chase the barrel thread out .010" with a single poilt to make sure that they are strait with everything else.
On rechambering a rem , I suggest if you have the barrel shank to remove ALL of the old threads and totaly rechread the chamber , set the barrel up and indicate off the bore then make a few very lite passes with a boring bar to make 100" sure that the remaining chamber is strait so that the reamer will follow the bore not the old possible crooked chamber
If your doing a full "blue print" to the action chase the barrel thread out .010" with a single poilt to make sure that they are strait with everything else.
Now THAT'S what I was hoping for! Thank you gentlemen...
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