Well, that is one way, for sure. I just don't like the firing pin assembly flopping back and forth. Maybe I'm missing something.The 'better way' is to just reinstall the firing pin assembly, without the cocking sleeve. No extra pieces required.
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Well, that is one way, for sure. I just don't like the firing pin assembly flopping back and forth. Maybe I'm missing something.The 'better way' is to just reinstall the firing pin assembly, without the cocking sleeve. No extra pieces required.
I've used that same tool for decades, sometimes there's no need for another way.This https://www.brownells.com/reloading...lair-bullet-seating-depth-tool/?sku=749004650Sinclair tool has worked for me on the Savage’s well, but I would love or to learn how to do the method above.
The Sinclair tool does do a good job.I’m glad to hear you like it too.I've used that same tool for decades, sometimes there's no need for another way.
What in god's name are you babbling about?The firing pin does NOT stick out past the bolt head surface when the bolt is cocked!!
A Hornady modified case with a chamber plug in the caliber of your choice WILL get you the measurement you're after.
I never liked the idea of taking the bolt apart. I use the split neck method. My method may seem excessive but it is accurate and shows the error you can get because the bullet doesn't get pushed in the same amount each time.After a bit of struggling with trying to use Mr. Wheelers' method in a Savage, I have stumbled upon one possible solution. Keep in mind that this is somewhat different as this relies on the bolt closing instead of opening to determine the 'touch' number.
1. Disassemble bolt. Remove ejector (in this pic, ejector has already been removed), front wave washer, rear baffle and cocking piece pin from bolt. Reassemble bolt with remaining parts.View attachment 1000356
View attachment 10003572. Use a fully sized, deprimed case that offers zero resistance to bolt closure. The bolt should fall on its own with no pressure. Without this step, the process is useless.
3. Seat a bullet out long, chamber, keep seating further until bolt just falls on its own. This is your 'touch' number using whatever comparator means you have. Here I'm using a modified Hornady insert with a Wilson .237 (bore size) bushing. View attachment 1000358
I have always used the slit neck method for determining length so I was interested in what this had to offer. The difference in the two methods in a 6BR was .0005, so I guess I'm good.
Another benefit is that it's a great way to set up your FLS die. Zero influences from baffles, FP spring, ejector, or washer, so you get exactly what you see/feel.
This is not THE way, it's just one way.
Comments, thoughts, etc. encouraged.
I never liked the idea of taking the bolt apart. I use the split neck method. My method may seem excessive but it is accurate and shows the error you can get because the bullet doesn't get pushed in the same amount each time.Well, that is one way, for sure. I just don't like the firing pin assembly flopping back and forth. Maybe I'm missing something.