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Finding Distance to Lands Savage Style

The 'better way' is to just reinstall the firing pin assembly, without the cocking sleeve. No extra pieces required.
Well, that is one way, for sure. I just don't like the firing pin assembly flopping back and forth. Maybe I'm missing something.
 
For the short amount of time that the bolt is in this config, does it really matter? Versus finding/making a specialty part, that now you have to keep track of between uses?

Either way works, take your pick.
 
Last time i seated a bullet long coated with imperial and marked with a sharpie. I just closed the bolt, opened and measured. Used inertia puller to move the bullet out a little and repeated. I found this to be easy, repeatable, and i could see from the sharpie it was barely touching.

Just to verify, I seated slightly deeper and got no marks from the lands in the sharpie.

I actually overall found it easier than the hornady tool, because it was the same result every time. Hornady tool i always have too much variation and do it 10 times.

Now that i have a barrel vice maybe i will try the speedy method.
 
The firing pin does NOT stick out past the bolt head surface when the bolt is cocked!! Wasted extra effort.
A Hornady modified case with a chamber plug in the caliber of your choice WILL get you the measurement you're after.
 
After a bit of struggling with trying to use Mr. Wheelers' method in a Savage, I have stumbled upon one possible solution. Keep in mind that this is somewhat different as this relies on the bolt closing instead of opening to determine the 'touch' number.

1. Disassemble bolt. Remove ejector (in this pic, ejector has already been removed), front wave washer, rear baffle and cocking piece pin from bolt. Reassemble bolt with remaining parts.View attachment 1000356
View attachment 10003572. Use a fully sized, deprimed case that offers zero resistance to bolt closure. The bolt should fall on its own with no pressure. Without this step, the process is useless.
3. Seat a bullet out long, chamber, keep seating further until bolt just falls on its own. This is your 'touch' number using whatever comparator means you have. Here I'm using a modified Hornady insert with a Wilson .237 (bore size) bushing. View attachment 1000358

I have always used the slit neck method for determining length so I was interested in what this had to offer. The difference in the two methods in a 6BR was .0005, so I guess I'm good.

Another benefit is that it's a great way to set up your FLS die. Zero influences from baffles, FP spring, ejector, or washer, so you get exactly what you see/feel.

This is not THE way, it's just one way.

Comments, thoughts, etc. encouraged.
I never liked the idea of taking the bolt apart. I use the split neck method. My method may seem excessive but it is accurate and shows the error you can get because the bullet doesn't get pushed in the same amount each time.
Well, that is one way, for sure. I just don't like the firing pin assembly flopping back and forth. Maybe I'm missing something.
I never liked the idea of taking the bolt apart. I use the split neck method. My method may seem excessive but it is accurate and shows the error you can get because the bullet doesn't get pushed in the same amount each time.
 

Attachments

I use the old cleaning rod method. This is a cleaning rod with a blunt jag and 2 collars inserted from the muzzle. Collar 1 set at jag to bolt face, collar 2 set at bullet tip as touching the lands. Measure between them.
That's COAL at touching. Make a dummy cartridge with that bullet at that COAL and get a CBTO reading from it with your gizzy. Log it.
 
I have used the stripped bolt method as well as the split case. The outcome is usually a little different, but both are repeatable and all I need is a consistent starting point in which to start testing from.
 

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