I bought a burris veracity that has a first focal plane reticle for deer hunting thinking that would be nice for holdovers, after a bit of time with it I am kind of on the fence as to weather or not I like it. Seems really really small when power is backed all the way down. I would be interested to hear from anyone that has more time using on ethan me. Did you get used to it and like it? Did you go away from it?
Ffp vs sfp reticles
- Thread starter john 800
- Start date
I started shootings prs matches last year. My first match I used a sfp atacr. It wasn’t the worst part of my day. Setting up a shooting position was my nemesis that day. Next match I had a ffp nx-8. We were shooting 300-950yrds. Set it at 12-15x power and was much better. Lower power made transitioning target to target easier and I felt more confident shooting multiple distances without changing parallax settings.
If you know you are going to be shooting at short distances (<200) then get a 1-8x power scope. The ffp reticle will be easier to see. At short distances paralex has a greater effect, but haven’t really tested this myself. Would be interested if someone has tested this.
If you know you are going to be shooting at short distances (<200) then get a 1-8x power scope. The ffp reticle will be easier to see. At short distances paralex has a greater effect, but haven’t really tested this myself. Would be interested if someone has tested this.
i used SFP all my life up till a few years ago and all positive! i hear the stories of reticle being too small for close in but never saw that as a problem at all!
in the field, FFP all the way!
50yds
also:
fading light, you should turn pwr down for more light gathering and don't lose your holdover settings like SFP
you dont need the fine lines close use the thicker outside bars and think of the fine lines as a thick line.
i keep telling my SFP comitted buddies when you grow up a bit more you will see what i mean lol.
give it a try, you CAN teach an old dog new tricks!
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Every scope and reticle is a compromise, there is no one size fits all. A FFP with a fine tree reticle
is great for hitting small targets at long range in bright light or against a high contrast background.
But if if you are shooting at a target in a dark area against a low contrast background that
thin reticle will disappear and you would be better with a heaver reticle like the MSR.
Hunting with a FFP scope is fine or horrible depending on the magnification range, the reticle and the ranges you expect see game. Using a 5x25x FFP scope with a fine tree reticle hunting deer in north east forests where shots are 60 yards is just dumb.
Me personally, no FFP on hunting rifles.
is great for hitting small targets at long range in bright light or against a high contrast background.
But if if you are shooting at a target in a dark area against a low contrast background that
thin reticle will disappear and you would be better with a heaver reticle like the MSR.
Hunting with a FFP scope is fine or horrible depending on the magnification range, the reticle and the ranges you expect see game. Using a 5x25x FFP scope with a fine tree reticle hunting deer in north east forests where shots are 60 yards is just dumb.
Me personally, no FFP on hunting rifles.
Paper targets none, metal targets of varying sizes and distances and wind hold without dialing is FFP.
NZ_Fclass
Silver $$ Contributor
For some reason, I have ended up with 2 out of 5 of my F-open and FTR rifles with FFP scopes. They have moved around occasionally to get combinations that work. The BR that I am working with currently has a 10-50 SFP and the 223 FTR has a 3-18 FFP. The 308 has the Burris 8-40 FFP which I quite like, but as I rarely shoot it below 500, other than load development, the reticle size is not an issue. The yet unfired 6SLR will have a SFP 8-32. When I win the Lotto or inherit from an aunt that I did not know existed...I will make Mr Kahles very wealthy, until then, Mr Sightron and Mr Burris do quite well.
I am a huge fan of FFP. That being said,
I only use SFP on anything I hunt with (except p-dogs...). I am not a believer in hold-overs on animals. I want the first bullet to hit vitals every time, without fail. I won't shoot at an animal I am not confident in dispatching humanely and quickly. Trying holdovers on a snowy day with a tiny reticle against a dark background is something I wont do. That bring said,
I also don't mind using SFP in a pinch with an illuminated aiming point. The turrets operate exactly the same and I still use them. All of the Burris scopes I own have the illumination feature.
I believe the most important thing is practicing what system you intend to use before the hunt! Just getting a zero at 100 or 200 and using Kentucky windage isn't the most ethical way to hunt past 300 yards. I use a range finder when I can, and I recommend practicing what an average animal (whitetail/muley/elk/moose etc...) looks like at full power in your scope. The example from Strelok that Rem06 added above is great, but nothing beats an actual animal-sized target in the field.
I have never lost an animal, and I have only had to take a follow-up shot once. Sometimes I have watched them walk away, which is hugely frustrating, but I knew I couldn't anchor the shot.
I only use SFP on anything I hunt with (except p-dogs...). I am not a believer in hold-overs on animals. I want the first bullet to hit vitals every time, without fail. I won't shoot at an animal I am not confident in dispatching humanely and quickly. Trying holdovers on a snowy day with a tiny reticle against a dark background is something I wont do. That bring said,
I also don't mind using SFP in a pinch with an illuminated aiming point. The turrets operate exactly the same and I still use them. All of the Burris scopes I own have the illumination feature.
I believe the most important thing is practicing what system you intend to use before the hunt! Just getting a zero at 100 or 200 and using Kentucky windage isn't the most ethical way to hunt past 300 yards. I use a range finder when I can, and I recommend practicing what an average animal (whitetail/muley/elk/moose etc...) looks like at full power in your scope. The example from Strelok that Rem06 added above is great, but nothing beats an actual animal-sized target in the field.
I have never lost an animal, and I have only had to take a follow-up shot once. Sometimes I have watched them walk away, which is hugely frustrating, but I knew I couldn't anchor the shot.
wildcatter
Silver $$ Contributor
In my opinion it all comes down to how much you want your target covered up at long distance. If you shoot 6' targets at 800 yards or so it don't matter, but when that groundhog, prairie dog, even yote's are your target, and 500, 600 even 800 yards are common, most experienced shooters will pick a SFF every time.
To me hunting is my most demanding need for optics, the farther out I shoot, the more demanding need for aim small shoot small becoming critical, since 500 yards even 800 and better are possible, as are targets where kill shots can be a 3" dia., SFP becomes a much more practical choice.
My competitive shooting is in short range bench rest, group or score, but mainly group, as well as 400 and 600 benchrest, where precision shooting is absolutely the most important thing to succeed, SFP is essential for small groups and winning, and why I have never seen a FFP scope used at any of these discipline's!
To me hunting is my most demanding need for optics, the farther out I shoot, the more demanding need for aim small shoot small becoming critical, since 500 yards even 800 and better are possible, as are targets where kill shots can be a 3" dia., SFP becomes a much more practical choice.
My competitive shooting is in short range bench rest, group or score, but mainly group, as well as 400 and 600 benchrest, where precision shooting is absolutely the most important thing to succeed, SFP is essential for small groups and winning, and why I have never seen a FFP scope used at any of these discipline's!
rijndael
Silver $$ Contributor
It's for when you want your reticle values to be the correct regardless of what power you're on.
That's where a good pair of ranging binoculars are worth the cost.
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