Farley Rest Maintenance

[Hays25]

According to the instruction manual, pure silicone or black moly grease. What specifically does everyone use?

Thanks
Andrew

 

[jdh47]

Black Moly grease goes with just about anything on your clothes.

 

[Mulligan]

@majohnson

CW

 

[butchlambert]

I use Synthetic Bicycle racing wheel bearing grease. I use it on my rest tops during assembly and on the Farleys.

 

[Grey Kiwi]

I use Synthetic Bicycle racing wheel bearing grease. I use it on my rest tops during assembly and on the Farleys.

Yep...thanks Butch...on your advice I use the bike grease (I chose SRAM Butter...I hope that's OK).
Plus I use the UHMW tape on the front plate too (as per your advice).
Certainly made my old Farley a lot smoother.
Sadly, I tried a fellow club member's SEB NEO the other day!
Oh dear...another rabbit hole to fall into. It was 'lovely'. Beautiful to just look at, let alone to play with it!

 

[majohnson]

Grey,
Do fall into the hole. I can make your Farley function much better. Much more consistant horizontial or vertical. And make the small correction moves to get the cross hairs back on your POA easier.

I thought maybe a couple of pictures of parts that needed attention:

1st Plate:
There is visible wear and damage. In a spot you can see that a small piece of metal torn away from rubbing against the hard anodizing. This plate is a sacrificial part, it hardness is less than the R30-35 the hard anodizing is. This part is surface ground on the left edge to fit in the tensioner plate. They are never consistent thickness, however if the joystick moves the mfg sends them out the door. The side you are looking at bolts to the bottom of the rest.

2nd Plate:
This is the bottom side of another plate. You can see the high and low spots in the metal. This side isn’t ground. That shiny edge also fits into the groove of tensioner plate. The joystick on that rest was jerky any time you made a horizontal movement.

I had one plate that had .046” taper in the edge. I’ve seen the lower plate so tight you almost couldn’t move the joystick, because it wasn’t ground correctly and one side was thicker than the other.

Thanks for reading,
Mark

 

[FNSafari]

Yep...thanks Butch...on your advice I use the bike grease (I chose SRAM Butter...I hope that's OK).
Plus I use the UHMW tape on the front plate too (as per your advice).
Certainly made my old Farley a lot smoother.
Sadly, I tried a fellow club member's SEB NEO the other day!
Oh dear...another rabbit hole to fall into. It was 'lovely'. Beautiful to just look at, let alone to play with it!

You want to jump down a real rabbit hole, try a Lenzi

 

[butchlambert]

You want to jump down a real rabbit hole, try a Lenzi

He has repair instructions for the Farley??

 

[FNSafari]

He has repair instructions for the Farley??

Butch,
I have a Farley also. Has been a good rest. I had Dave Short modify it with an out front weight and it is even better imo.

 

[Grey Kiwi]

He has repair instructions for the Farley??

Yep, and came from this forum. Mainly @butchlambert
It helps that I'm an auto engineer, (now retired though), and have the tools and the nouse to strip this thing down, see how it works, and fettle things a tad.
I do have my name down for a SEB Mini-X but that may not come for a year or more...and I may not want it then.
The Farley is doing just fine at the moment. Certainly a way lot smoother now. I bought it 3rd hand at least, and it was quite dry internally.

 

[Mulligan]

I had Mark clean up, relube, and adjust my Farley. It works very well now.

Not long ago I was at a match and several times through the course of a few days shooting, I never had to adjust the joystick while running a target. The rest is now so smooth, it is just amazing.

I have asked Mark to build me a counter weight for it for my heavy guns it works so well.

CW