I have Erik's tuner on two of my F-TR rifles, a .308 Win and a .223 Rem. They absolutely work as advertised, but there are a few considerations. First, it is an additional step in the reloading process; i.e. charge weight > seating depth > tuner testing. I typically load up about 50 rounds for the initial tuner test, several foulers/sighters, plus three shot groups on even numbered tuner increments ("0" to "+1" on the 2nd rotation). Next, I will usually go back over what appears to be the "optimal" tuner window a second time, testing in single increments. It is important that you keep good records of the groups at various tuner settings, in the event you need to adjust it at a match. You will often see groups expand vertically or horizontally to either side of the "optimal window", so you need to know which way to spin it to reduce the group spread if you start getting excess vertical or horizontal dispersion during a match. In other words, you may want to turn the tuner an increment or two in the direction where you observed groups with increased horizontal dispersion if you start getting excess vertical during a match. But you need to know which direction that is. If you turn it the wrong direction, it will likely make the problem even worse.
Second, it is important to note that just because you can shrink groups with a tuner, that doesn't replace proper load development. The idea is to carry out standard load development with the tuner screwed all the way down to "0". Only when you have the load properly developed should you start testing the tuner settings. A sub-optimal load that you made shoot tiny groups solely by using the tuner is still just that, a sub-optimal load, and it will likely go out of tune much more easily as conditions change and/or the barrel heats up.
Finally, I have come to believe over time that it is also a good practice to test the optimal tuner settings ("window") over the range of atmospheric conditions you might reasonably expect to see during a typical F-Class shooting season. If the optimal tuner setting changes due to a markedly different temp/humidity on a given day by an amount that is greater than half the width of the "optimal window", it is likely that it will no longer be in tune if you simply leave it set in the middle of the original "optimal window" that you initially identified. In other words, identifying and maintaining the optimal tuner settings is no different than load development. There is no "one size fits all", or "set it and forget it". You have to test in a variety of conditions so that you know in advance where the tuner needs to be set in a given set of conditions, even if you ultimately find that you leave it on the same setting the majority of the time.
The tuners themselves are not too expensive, although the cost adds up by the time you include having the barrel threaded and the amount of testing that goes into knowing how to set it properly in a given condition. These are additional considerations that someone not using a tuner typically doesn't think about. Only the end user can decide whether the benefits are worth the extra cost, time, and effort. As I stated earlier, Erik's tuners most definitely work as advertised, but in order to get the most out of one, you also have to put in a lot more effort.