F/L Bushing Die setup?

[TrxR]

After reading the Shoulder bump thread it got me wondering what the best way to setup a die is? Anyone know where there is a good Video or write up on the proper way to setup a Redding Full length type S die.

Also when using Lapua Brass for .223 will the die setup after the first firing be the same as the next firing? They will have fairly stout loads for 90gr Bergers.

Thanks

 

[Preacher]

If your using a bolt gun, you can remove the firing pin assembly, and then when you chamber a round you'll be able to feel exactly how much pressure it will take to chamber the sized case.
Keep screwing the die into the press, and trying it in the chamber until you can just barely feel the case in the chamber when you close the bolt. If the bolt falls all the way down you have pushed the shoulder in to much, and you'll need to back of the die a little until you can feel the case in the chamber..
I like the bolt to fall part way down, and then use a tiny bit of pressure to finish closing it.
Once the die is set you really don't need to change anything after that...

 

[TrxR]

This will be a bolt gun that I will be shooting F/TR with.

Thanks

 

[Zia Hunter]

You can also use a comparator to set up your dies using FF brass. Some brass may require several firings before it fully expands in he chamber. Lots of information on past threads on which tools and how to use them. Be sure to let the bushing float in the die and the stamping indicating the bushing size should be face down.

 

[DennisH]

Readings will be different with every sizing.

I bought two die shim kit's from Sinclair's and it's almost simple to get my desired headspace.

JMO

 

[DennisH]

Once the die is set you really don't need to change anything after that...

Different lots will vary as with bullets.

But I check my readings with every sizing. My biggest issue is putting consistent force on the pull handle. Once you master this, it's pretty consistent, again JMO.

 

[boiler_house7]

I first check several brass with a comparator where case headspace is set, with the longest recorded. I chamber the fired brass in chamber if closes with little resistance i then but a piece of scotch tape on back of brass and trim with a exacto knife if bolt wont close i know I'm fully blowed and out aprox .002. I then have the redding competition shell holder set and start with the .012 shellholder and set die to full length size and check brass with the comparator until i get the shoulder to bump i want. Start with the .012 does not bump, step down the shell holders until does. some dies with the standard shellholder will not bump, gotta remove some from the die base. Once you feel you have bumped say .003 put two pieces tape on back of brass if bolt won't close your under .004 and closes with one piece tape your at .003 Important to use consistent case lube i use the imperial wax helps on consistency once you have your bump set where you want it. I bump .002 for target and .003 for my hunting rounds allows .001 for spring back. I used to use a feeler gauge from a standard shellholder top to the bottom of the base on the die will do the same thing, I just got lazy. Hope this helps.

 

[Killshot]

Without using a good caliper and a case gauge (comparator) you're just guessing on how much shoulder set-back you're causing. Get the right tools, they aren't expensive.

Normal set-up is with the ram in the UP position the screw the die in until it hits the shellholder, then lower the shellholder and turn the die 1/10th of a revolution and size a case, measure with a case-gauge and then adjust the die as needed for less or more set-back.

No tape, no funky shellholders.

 

[boiler_house7]

The shellholders take out the slack in the press and will be a lot more consistent on bumping.

 

[gsg5pk]

Some tools that make your life easier;

RCBS Precision MIC
Redding Competition Shell Holder Set

 

[TrxR]

I plan on getting the comp shell holders as well as the hornady headspace comparator set. So I would set my die according to the longest brass measured?

Thanks

 

[jsimonh]

I use the redding comp shell holders. I measured several fired cases and then resized a few using a standard holder kissing the die. That let me determine how far it was bumping back with a standard holder and then I switched it out with the proper redding holder. I bump the shoulders .001-002 when I FL size and it seems to be working well for me.

 

[amlevin]

The best measuring tool is the rifle you're going to be shooting the brass in.

Use the "stripped bolt" method and adjust for the closing pressure you desire.

Besides, it's not a bad idea to strip the bolt and clean it regularly so conduct die adjustment checks at the same time.

 

[BoydAllen]

Using the stripped bolt method assumes that the die is small enough for that particular chamber (or the chamber is large enough for the die to work).This is information that no poster can have about another's chamber and die. If there is a mismatch, it is possible that the shoulder would be bumped more than is desirable by the time that the desired feel is achieved. If a die is adjusted for the proper amount of bump, and you don't like the feel of the case that you used to make the adjustment, you need a different die, or you can have the chamber opened up a little so that the die will work. The latter operation requires a lathe and an operator that knows what he is doing.

On the die setup, if you don't want to over work the neck of the case that you are using to set up a bushing Fl die, you can simply leave the bushing out of the die until you have the shoulder bump right. It is good to remember that one turn of a die equals .071" of adjustment, so folks that tell you to make your adjustments by an eighth of a turn or even a sixteenth are really recommending pretty coarse moves. You can probably turn your die in till it touches and back it out a quarter of a turn, and then move in from there. Once you have the bump where you want it, be sure to thoroughly remove the sizing lube from the case before testing it in the rifle, because you don't want the lube in the chamber. It will increase bolt thrust. When you are measuring bump, and adjusting the die, you will reach a point where the head to shoulder measurement increases, and then as you continue it will start to decrease. This is normal, and happens because the body diameter is being reduced before the die is adjusted far enough down for the case to make contact with the shoulder inside the die.

 

[Joe Maisto]

Readings will be different with every sizing.

I bought two die shim kit's from Sinclair's and it's almost simple to get my desired headspace.

JMO

Shim kits are the easiest and work just fine. They go from .003 -.010. There is another shim kit for the bullet seater.
Simple to seat your bullet deeper of shallower. Wouldn't be without either.
Also, near impossible to get the same reading EACH and EVERY time using even the best vernier calipers.
My opinion...