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F-Class Scope Question

How necessary is it to have 1/8 vs 1/4 MoA adjustments on your 1000yd rig scope??

A good wind call can eliminate the need for such finite adjustments no?

Or do you need the 1/8 adjustment in case you are 1/8 out from center on your spotter shots??

Thoughts??
 
Great question. Here's my .02. 1/8 clicks are used by the vast majority of F-class shooters. But there is absolutely nothing wrong with 1/4MOA adjustments IMHO. My family of 4 f-class shooters has been using 1/4 MOA knobs for years and it has not adversely affected our scores or x-count at any distance. For mid-range matches in low wind conditions, 1/8 click scopes provide the ability to center the group perfectly. But in high-winds at longer distances where the range of adjustments will be much larger, I think the 1/4 click scope is easier to operate and it's easier to keep track of where you are. Our particular scopes have 25 minutes of adjustment in a single rotation....so it is much more difficult to get "lost" on the knobs even when we have more than 10 minutes of wind on. That comes in handy in the afternoon at Ben Avery. ;D
 
sigma2chi said:
How necessary is it to have 1/8 vs 1/4 MoA adjustments on your 1000yd rig scope??

A good wind call can eliminate the need for such finite adjustments no?

Or do you need the 1/8 adjustment in case you are 1/8 out from center on your spotter shots??

Thoughts??

I definitely want to have the 1/8 minute elevation adjustment. To get that, generally one must take a 1/8 minute windage knob also. A 1/8 minute windage knob is helpful in setting "wind drift" corrections. Other than that, I use "hold off" technique to the bitter end of target frame width. For corrections outside of the target frame, I'll add one or more minutes of windage on the windage knob, and resume with "hold off" as needed.

Dan
 
The 2013 World Champion F-T/R Team scopes were 1/8 moa elevation and 1/4 MOA windage. It worked out very nicely.
 
dannyjbiggs said:
I definitely want to have the 1/8 minute elevation adjustment. To get that, generally one must take a 1/8 minute windage knob also. A 1/8 minute windage knob is helpful in setting "wind drift" corrections. Other than that, I use "hold off" technique to the bitter end of target frame width. For corrections outside of the target frame, I'll add one or more minutes of windage on the windage knob, and resume with "hold off" as needed.

Dan

^^^^^^^^
What he said. :)
 

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