Eye Level Beam scale (?)

[necchi]

As many know, My powder charge only relates to Me and My measurement. In other words, as long as the charge I weigh is repeatable and my scale truly measures to with-in +/- one tenth, I can use that scale reliably to to work charge variables to find the load I need for MY gun. (follow?)

If I have my scale set at zero on the bench below eye level (the needle IS at zero from my line of sight), Why would MY measured charge be different than if the scale was set at eye level?

As long as I use the sliding weights on the beam and not the graduation marks of the scale to change my powder variable, How can an eye level scale be "more" accurate?

Am I missing something here or is it simply a personal preferance?

FWIW, I'm running a wonderfull little Hornady/Pacific model M, I've had it 10yrs.

 

[in2deep]

I think that parallax may occur if you move your head just a little up and down that may affect your reading unless you really paid attention. I know mine sure varies unless I put it up on a shelf. I even put a big magnifying glass in front of mine to make the little dashes easier for my old eyes to see
Here is a link to a fellow that makes a simple prism for what you are talking about:

http://www.omegapowdertrickler.com/

 

[Laurie]

There are two related but not quite the same factors at play here - 'accuracy' (ie a measured 35.0gn charge weight = 35.0gn plus or minus 0.1gn) and consistency. If your eye level means you see the beam as level when it isn't (parallax as in2deep rightly says) your actual measured charge may be 35.2 or 35.3gn (say) but that doesn't matter if the charge works in your rifle, is safe, and you adopt the same position every time you handload, so you are using the exact same charge weight plus or minus 0.1gn - ie consistency.

The problem I find with beam scales sitting below eye level is that I shift around on the chair as I do different things, let my natural round-shouldered stoop get worse etc, so my head / eye height change unless I make a conscious effort to return to the position I started out with when I zeroed the scales.

 

[BoydAllen]

One of the big issues with beam scales is how little the pointer is displaced by .1 grain. I find that some magnification is helpful in that it makes this small difference in pointer position easier to discern. Also, scales do not generally repeat well, without a little tuning. Without a more accurate scale to use as a reference, it is difficult to evaluate a scale's performance, unless it is really bad.

 

[BBTC48]

I've always wondered how to make this as consistant as I could and I've found a really nice magnifyer I'm going to apply in front of the match needle (RCBS 505). And I've read that there's someone that does a "tune-up" on scales for a price when sent to him. Couldn't we find out what one of these good tune-ups entail and spread the word for all our forum members to try out on their scales? All in the name of better performance and tehnique. Not trying to steal the guy's livelyhood or anything but we all spread info back and forth to each other about "tricks of the trade". Please don't laugh at my scale...it's what finances have provided. It's probably not the best but with dillegence I can get good chrony numbers with hunting rifles.

 

[brian427cobra]

A cheap USB camera your computer and a FREE program called FSCamView works great.

 

[280man]

I went the hightech route to raise my scale up. Went to Lowes and purchased a 2 dollar 8"x8" cement block

 

[Martin S]

I made a little bench to set my scale on. Now I look right at the end of the pointer on the scale. I find this works for me.
Martin