I am looking into building a switchbarrel rifle and was wondering which action would be the easiest to use. The Remington 700 or the Savage,or Stevens, with the barrel nut. I currently do not have a barrel vice or action wrench so I would have to purchase items for either way I decide to go. What else would I need besides the vise and wrench? I may go the cheap route on a hunting barrel and try to find a used 6PPC barrel and have it recontoured and rechambered for 6br. I know it would be a slower twist and use lighter bullets, but I would be using it for a coyote hunting rifle and meybe some groundhog hunting. Would I be wasting my time trying this approach or should I just purchase a new barrel and go from there? I appreciate any input I can get on the subject. Thanks in advance. Tim
Easiest switch barrel
- Thread starter 30xs
- Start date
I would go with the Remington. The gunsmith will set the headspace for any barrel he chambers up for the rifle, and all you have to do is tighten the barrel to the action with an action wrench and a barrel vise. The Savage with the nut system would require you to set the headspace yourself each and every time you change barrels. And getting the headspace exactly the same as you had it last time...As for barrels, I wouldn't sink a bunch of money into a used barrel. Now if the threads need no work and the smith will do the rechamber for a reasonable fee, a lightly used barrel may be feasible.
I have a Rem. 40X switch barrel rifle that i am very happy with.
When the action was trued my gun smith put a pin in the recoil lug that connects it to the receiver and keeps the two aligned when the barrel is removed. The action is bedded into the stock and all that is required is to put the barrel in a barrel vice and use a action wrench to remove and replace the barrel. I use a long breaker bar,24 in.) and set the torque by feel.This eliminates the need to check head space.
jerrold
When the action was trued my gun smith put a pin in the recoil lug that connects it to the receiver and keeps the two aligned when the barrel is removed. The action is bedded into the stock and all that is required is to put the barrel in a barrel vice and use a action wrench to remove and replace the barrel. I use a long breaker bar,24 in.) and set the torque by feel.This eliminates the need to check head space.
jerrold
30xs said:
How about an idea from left field, outside the bun? Have you considered a T2K,Tubb 2000)? Yes, I know they're very expensive. But they also hold their value very well.
Yes, you'll need a barrel vise and action wrench, but other than one intriguing setup built by Pat Gammon in his days with NECO, I think every switch barrel rig requires such tools.
If you're gonna chamber/fit your own barrels, then more power to you. But if you're gonna have a 'smith do this work, then you're looking at $450-500 per barrel, plus you have to send them your action, and the lead time. With the T2K, you can buy barrels, pre-fit/chambered/ready to go, and install them yourself. No action shipping, no hassles with transit or FFL questions from the shipper, and no down time.
Just a thought, from a dude who's getting ready himself to drink the T2Koolaid.
30XS,
Whether you or a gunsmith sets up the bbls, you should install witness marks on the bbls that align the bbl with a mark on the action. These marks are set once the bbl is torqued in place. That way all you have to do is line up the marks and you are ready to go.
Bbl torque is something has had volumes written about it. Benchresters often just snap a bbl in place by hand, others think that you need many Ft-Lbs of torque for security.
For a switch bbl gun,especially if both bbls are strictly used with a scope) the bbls won't require a high torque.
30-40 Ft-lbs of torque would be plenty. Always lube the threads when you change bbls as that will avoid any thread galling.
Bob
Whether you or a gunsmith sets up the bbls, you should install witness marks on the bbls that align the bbl with a mark on the action. These marks are set once the bbl is torqued in place. That way all you have to do is line up the marks and you are ready to go.
Bbl torque is something has had volumes written about it. Benchresters often just snap a bbl in place by hand, others think that you need many Ft-Lbs of torque for security.
For a switch bbl gun,especially if both bbls are strictly used with a scope) the bbls won't require a high torque.
30-40 Ft-lbs of torque would be plenty. Always lube the threads when you change bbls as that will avoid any thread galling.
Bob
im building one right now as we speak
just waiting for the shilen barrel to come its a police 308 and the matchbarrel gona be a 250.ack imp. it well be realy sweet i hope...johan
just waiting for the shilen barrel to come its a police 308 and the matchbarrel gona be a 250.ack imp. it well be realy sweet i hope...johanTo answer the question directed to me, I do not know of any recommended torque on seating barrels. I have personally seen everything from just beyond hand tight to very high torque in the short range bench rest game. In my gun, the receiver face is squared, the recoil lug is machined equal on all sides and the barrel is square to the lug and receiver. Making sure that the lube on the threads does not flow into the juncture of the barrel and lug, the barrel has a small recess just beyond the end of the threads nearest the muzzle) I hand tighten the barrel, then put my weight on the breaker bar to seat the assembly. It will move about 1/16 in and bottom out solid.
For what it is worth,
if one has a switch barrel set up and a receiver trailer hitch on a vehicle, a portable " vice stand" can be made. Get a piece of iron that fits into the receiver hitch about two feet long or a little less. Using a barrel vice like Sinclair sells, drill a 1/2 in. or so hole through the base on each end of the vice and a corresponding hole through the iron that fits the receiver hitch. Bolt the two together and you have a vice stand when inserted into the hitch.
I like to position the stock as close to the vice as possible, when tightening the vice with the receiver positioned so that a sharp downward push on the wrench will break the barrel loose. To tighten, reverse the barrel and a downward push will seat it to the receiver.
This arrangement allows one to switch barrels at the range.
jerrold
if one has a switch barrel set up and a receiver trailer hitch on a vehicle, a portable " vice stand" can be made. Get a piece of iron that fits into the receiver hitch about two feet long or a little less. Using a barrel vice like Sinclair sells, drill a 1/2 in. or so hole through the base on each end of the vice and a corresponding hole through the iron that fits the receiver hitch. Bolt the two together and you have a vice stand when inserted into the hitch.
I like to position the stock as close to the vice as possible, when tightening the vice with the receiver positioned so that a sharp downward push on the wrench will break the barrel loose. To tighten, reverse the barrel and a downward push will seat it to the receiver.
This arrangement allows one to switch barrels at the range.
jerrold
Tim, the easiest is the Savage/Stevens, because it comes from the factory as a switch barrel. Unlike the Remington, there is no torque shoulder on the receiver for the barrel to seat against.30xs said:
For the Savage system,including the Stevens 200), you need a receiver wrench and a barrel nut wrench. You do not need a barrel vise and I do not recommend one. You also need a headspace gauge. You can buy a SAAMI spec headspace gauge, or you can size an empty hull with your sizing die on your press and fill it with epoxy.
To switch barrels on the Savage, you remove the stock and unlock the bolt. Let the bolt hang in the receiver. Apply the receiver wrench as close as you can to front of the receiver. I like to clamp my receiver wrench in a bench vise. Then, you slip the barrel nut wrench over the barrel and onto the nut and unscrew like you would most normal threaded things. Remove the barrel. Transfer the barrel nut to the new barrel. Hand screw the new barrel about halfway in, insert your headspace gauge, put the bolt in the "in battery" position, and screw the barrel barrel all the way down on the gauge as tight as you can get it by hand. Then crank down the barrel nut and tighten it with the barrel nut wrench and you are done. Takes less than 5 minutes.
The other advantages to the Savage are that the lock time is about as fast as a Remington, which is pretty darned fast for a factory gun, and the Savage floating bolt head, which lends itself to accuracy. There are plenty of aftermarket accessories for the Savage, too. Not as many as for the Remington, but almost.
How I switch barrels in a Remington.
Secure the barrel vice,see above). Insert the barrel and lock it down. Insert the action wrench and break the barrel loose from receiver. I prefer the action wrench that inserts into the receiver like a bolt and is about 8-10in. long with a hex head on the end to attach a box end wrench or a socket. Move the rifle to a workbench or such, I have a homemade cleaning cradle that supports the stock at two points, behind the trigger guard and under the barrel) Turn the barrel out by hand.
Using break part cleaner or some equivalent, thoroughly clean the barrel threads in the receiver. No wiping here, don't want lint in the threads. Do the same cleaning on the threads of the barrel to be installed. After the cleaner is dry put a strip of grease, just enough to fill the thread, I like Shooters Gold) about 3/8 to 1/2 in wide on the threads from one end to the
other. The object here is to cover the threads but not so much that it flows out in front of the receiver as the barrel is turned in. Turn the barrel in by hand to hand tight. Replace the rifle into vice and tighten the assembly with a torque wrench, witness marks or by feel, whichever you prefer.
I feel sure others may have other methods that work as well. I will say, I have three switch barrel guns and this always works for me. I don't know how long it takes, I don't rush it, after all we are not changing socks here.
OH by the way, I never took the receiver out of the stock.
jerrold
Secure the barrel vice,see above). Insert the barrel and lock it down. Insert the action wrench and break the barrel loose from receiver. I prefer the action wrench that inserts into the receiver like a bolt and is about 8-10in. long with a hex head on the end to attach a box end wrench or a socket. Move the rifle to a workbench or such, I have a homemade cleaning cradle that supports the stock at two points, behind the trigger guard and under the barrel) Turn the barrel out by hand.
Using break part cleaner or some equivalent, thoroughly clean the barrel threads in the receiver. No wiping here, don't want lint in the threads. Do the same cleaning on the threads of the barrel to be installed. After the cleaner is dry put a strip of grease, just enough to fill the thread, I like Shooters Gold) about 3/8 to 1/2 in wide on the threads from one end to the
other. The object here is to cover the threads but not so much that it flows out in front of the receiver as the barrel is turned in. Turn the barrel in by hand to hand tight. Replace the rifle into vice and tighten the assembly with a torque wrench, witness marks or by feel, whichever you prefer.
I feel sure others may have other methods that work as well. I will say, I have three switch barrel guns and this always works for me. I don't know how long it takes, I don't rush it, after all we are not changing socks here.
OH by the way, I never took the receiver out of the stock.
jerrold
.
Have been playing with switch barrel rifles for 30+ years.
Have switch barrels built on Mauser, Montana, Remington, Ruger, Sako, Savage, Weatherby Mark V, and other actions. No Winchesters.
Have 150+ barrels for Savage alone.
Have one action which has barrels ranging from the 14-221 Walker to the 470 Capstick and way too many in-between.
Still have much to learn.
My recommendation to anyone is to start with the Savage action using their barrel nut.
Can switch barrels in the field in about two minutes without removing the stock or the scope from the action.
With a good scope and mounting system can shoot a 222 Magnum, switch to a 220 Swift, adjust the scope, and hit another prairie dog, then do it all again switching to a 7mm-300 Weatherby. Hate to shoot two consecutive prairie dogs with the same cartridge.
Need to have a barrel bag, similar to a golf bag, for the gun bearer in Africa to carry. Do not recommend switching barrels between shots fired during a cape buffalo charge.
.
Have been playing with switch barrel rifles for 30+ years.
Have switch barrels built on Mauser, Montana, Remington, Ruger, Sako, Savage, Weatherby Mark V, and other actions. No Winchesters.
Have 150+ barrels for Savage alone.
Have one action which has barrels ranging from the 14-221 Walker to the 470 Capstick and way too many in-between.
Still have much to learn.
My recommendation to anyone is to start with the Savage action using their barrel nut.
Can switch barrels in the field in about two minutes without removing the stock or the scope from the action.
With a good scope and mounting system can shoot a 222 Magnum, switch to a 220 Swift, adjust the scope, and hit another prairie dog, then do it all again switching to a 7mm-300 Weatherby. Hate to shoot two consecutive prairie dogs with the same cartridge.
Need to have a barrel bag, similar to a golf bag, for the gun bearer in Africa to carry. Do not recommend switching barrels between shots fired during a cape buffalo charge.
.
NorCalMikie
Gold $$ Contributor
Savage/Stevens by far is the easiest. Witness marks?? A piece of masking tape with a line on it for the barrel. No marks on the reciever. Barrel swap in 5 minutes and you're done. Bolt head, another 5 minutes. As far as torque, just snug it up. If it moves, you can see the barrel mark,tape). Never had one come loose. They don't need to be as tight as they come from the factory.
Have read and heard folks discuss at length the optimum torque for the barrel and nut on a Savage. Some go into quite scientific and engineering sounding arguments.
Talked to Bob Greenleaf, chief engineer at Savage for 30 years. He said they didn't even have a gauge for it when he was there. It was however tight the lady on the assembly process made it that time.
He said someone got a new wrench after he left and that the current ones are way too tight.
He has some switch barrel ones that he tightens by hand without any fixtures. Holds the rifle upright between his knees and tightens it with his hands using a plain wrench.
.
Talked to Bob Greenleaf, chief engineer at Savage for 30 years. He said they didn't even have a gauge for it when he was there. It was however tight the lady on the assembly process made it that time.
He said someone got a new wrench after he left and that the current ones are way too tight.
He has some switch barrel ones that he tightens by hand without any fixtures. Holds the rifle upright between his knees and tightens it with his hands using a plain wrench.
.
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