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discharge on bolt closing

I have a triggertech primary trigger in a bolt action. I had put grease on the cocking piece where it makes contact with trigger and had a round go off on closing the bolt. I was able to repeat the the firing pin fall on an empty chamber later. I have cleaned the grease off since and cannot repeat the failure to remain cocked. I haven't been able to contact triggertech and I am wondering if the grease is what created the problem. I have read that other triggers need to be run dry. Any thoughts? I had about 100 rounds through rifle when problem first appeared.
 
I would say so. That’s one spot I would never use grease or oil. I’ll clean a trigger with lighter fluid, but that’s it.
 
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I'd pull the trigger and try clean the substance out, brake cleaner or the like. I'd probably even adj the trigger to a heavier release for a spell after.
 
had a round go off on closing the bolt.

There are many things that could cause that. After you replaced the trigger did you run your rifle through all the recommended safety checks with an empty chamber to verify it was safe?
 
Called a slam fire.
I take off & soak my trigger with charcoal lighter fluid every so often.
Roinson (sp) squirted down in through out the yr.
Get adjustment specs, readjust.
 
The grease was put on the cocking piece on the bolt not in the trigger itself. It seems to be a pretty standard practice from what I have read. Now if the grease got into the trigger housing and on the sear I would understand. It has been between 20 and 30 degrees out when I have been shooting, so I wouldn't think the grease would melt into the trigger. Maybe I am not understanding it.
 
This rifle was a semi-custom so I did not install the trigger. Everyone is on vacation for the holidays so I can't get any answers from them so the safety tests were hopefully performed by them. I have since pounded stock on rubber flooring with safety off and cannot get the firing pin to fall. I have cycled the action switching safety on and off, pulling trigger with safety on then switching to fire position with no firing pin movement.
 
At the back of the bolt, it is the cocking cam that is greased, with bolt grease so that it will not travel to places where you do not want it. Something like a toothpick makes a good applicator. I do this sparingly every time that I clean the barrel. I do not grease the cocking piece. As the others have said, I would clean the trigger and readjust it according to manufacturer's instructions, paying close attention to sear engagement and not trying to go too light on the trigger spring. To clean out gunk, with the trigger in the action and the barreled action out of the stock (with the bolt out of the action), you should be able to use something like brake parts cleaner, and after you have that done and blown out with compressed air to dry, follow the trigger manufacturer's instructions on lubrication. They may call for none, or something like lighter fluid, but generally you do not want gun oil, in an enclosed trigger.
 
The lighter fluid should be used to clean triggers and also contains a small amount of lubrication to it and is more than sufficient to provide the lubricant to the trigger.
 
I had a rifle built on a Mausingfield action, the bolt lugs and raceways got coated with cerakote. I had a Jewell put in, set at 20oz. When I went to pick the gun up, we had some feeding issues from a magazine, now the smoothness of the action was highlighted. Working on it, the smith kept dousing the bolt with oil, it was dripping off. Every time he removed the bolt to do something I inconspicuously wiped oil off the top of the trigger. In retrospect, I should have cleaned it out, I did not. After 600 or so rds, the trigger was mush, no clean break anymore, thing is, it worked that way, and I shot 3600 rds with that action w/o touching it. I just made it work.
When I finally sold the action, and got away from Jewell triggers, it cost me over 50 bucks to have it cleaned up and fixed so I could sell it.
Oil on a gun anywhere is a dust or particle magnet, never win.
 
That's very unsafe. reset and check everything out. Even if it chambers ok, bump the stock on the ground (with no round chambered or a case with just the primer) and see if the firing pin releases.

I've reworked some stock Savage triggers and got them down to a little over 1 lb. Everything seemed to work, safety functioned, and you couldn't get the sear release except with a trigger pull. Later on I was shooting and had some problem (?) so put the safety on after chambering a round. I never normally use a safety so went to fire, pulled the trigger, and of course nothing happened. I took the safety off and that instantly caused a discharge without touching the trigger. The fix was easy, readjust the safety, but at that time I didn't know I had a problem.
 
The grease was put on the cocking piece on the bolt not in the trigger itself. It seems to be a pretty standard practice from what I have read. Now if the grease got into the trigger housing and on the sear I would understand. It has been between 20 and 30 degrees out when I have been shooting, so I wouldn't think the grease would melt into the trigger. Maybe I am not understanding it.
I confess my confusion. Cocking piece is what exactly. When you 'cock' the trigger, you are in fact resetting the sear engagement. IF you got any grease on those two parts, then the slam fire was easier. Don't mean to upset you, but we need to be on the exact same page before we can help or offer an opinion. When you have a slam fire...it is because the sear has disengaged. Period.
 
A story about the reverse.

Hereabouts, we have minimum trigger weights for Palma style rifles. Had a friend who used to sail close to the wind, and as a matter of course he would wipe the sear on the bolt with a piece of chalk before he went to be tested, knowing that the friction on the Remington-style sear would increase.

Seems to me you did the reverse & had an oopsie.
 

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