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Dillon 550 Primer Seating Issue

One thing I will say about the priming set up on my 550C is that it does have a low tolerance for dirt and it runs under the filthiest part of the press. I do a clean up of and lube of my 550C about (8) times a year but I will clean the primer set up about (16) times a year or sooner if I see the primer slide start acting grabby.
 
It's not easy to pick up an upside down primer in a pick-up tube.

You may beat the odds and do it with one, but not so many and not notice.
If you dont use pick up tubes it is easy...

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I used to have that issue... A small percentage would flip over coming out of the drop tube and while moving forward in the arm. Now don't hate me for this I fixed the problem by making a minor adjustment. I can not for the life of me remember what it was,... I fixed it many years ago and have forgotten whit I did..

I will say this make sure the arm is moving back far enough by adjusting that little screw in the back of the housing...
 
If you dont use pick up tubes it is easy...

I never really loaded enough ammo on my 550 to justify (in my mind) getting those primer tube loaders. I always made do with the FA vibratory loaders. They worked... but still a PITA in their own way. Then someone turned me on to the Double Alpha vibratory loaders. Not as slick or hands-free as what you have going on there... but they still work pretty slick.
 
Raining today and had some spare time and found my problem. operator error! Feel like and idiot. I had the large primer tube in the primer feed tune
 
Jay,

With the inconsistencies I've experienced with the Dillon primer system, I've taken to seating all primers by hand. Much better results on target, and scores. Rifle or pistol, still the same experience.

HTH,
DocBII
I disabled my 550b primer system decades ago. My blood pressure could not handle that piece of crap system. Loading primed brass on a 550b is MUCH less stressful now.
 
I have my original 550B from 2005 and a 550C from 2015. Had a third 550 for 5 years but became surplus. I started loading 45ACP and had no end of trouble with the primer feed, primers flipped, half flipped, not feeding etc. I slowly went thru the learning curve. I even put it away about 18mths to save my blood pressure. Eventually I discovered I had a primer cup pin that was installed at factory on a minute slant. Replaced under warranty I started making reliable accurate ammo my fussy old 1911 liked, hundreds and hundreds of rounds. Along the way I learned the following:

1. Cleanliness is next to godliness and Isopropyl Alcohol is your friend. I keep a 500ml pump spray bottle in my reloading room to degrease everything from equipment to my fingers. Its cheap. Degrease the slide components and the pickup tube tip and keep them free of any grease or oil.
2. After degreasing spray surfaces needing lube with CRC Dryglide (contains P.T.F.E.). When dry dust with powdered graphite. DO NOTwet lube with oil or grease - it just attracts and holds dirt. Do the same for lubing under the shell plate. The only place grease or oil goes on my Dillon is on the Ram and linkages and that's mess enough.

3. Contrary to some keep the two cap screws that secure the primer slide housing done up tight. No need to murder them - they screw into helicoils in an aluminum block and you can burst the sides of the block. Its a warranty fix, at least the first time, but best not go there. I saw it on a mates old 550 that's done a lot of work. Eyeball those helicoils occasionally- if they are loose or proud that will cause problems. There's no need to "float" the slide if you set it up correctly and run the press with a smooth rhythm. 0

4. Before you lock the two retaining screws down you MUST line the mechanism up so the primer cup enters the shell plate priming hole cleanly without catching. Two dimensions here. One is the side to side play of the housing. Second is the travel of the bar. Method is to install housing and bar with cap screws a little loose and with the depth travel screw loose. Carefully drop the Ram until the primer cup is in the shell plate. Align the slide housing for side to side play and tighten the two underneath cap screws. Adjust the travel stop and lock nut so the cup is centered in the shell plate hole. Lightly lock the travel stop screw with its lock nut and test so that when you work the press handle the primer cup goes up and down through the shell plate hole without catching. The littlest snick will tip a primer. When happy do final tightening of cap screws into housing (from underneath), and the travel screw lock nut.


5. Provided the above is done properly the remaining issues are

- dirt jams including spent primers or pieces thereof, spilled powder and new primers that have jumped out of the cup from excessive speed or operating vibration etc. Get a small bristle pastry brush and regularly sweep debris from around your primer slide. If the slide sticks or jams stop and clean. It's a dirt issue not a lube issue. Usually a spent primer right up inside the housing. For reducing spent primer issues, replace the spent primer catcher cotter pin with a small panel pin (dressing nail), so the swing door does not jam closed but swings freely. Dirt can cause the slide not to pull back quite far enough to accept a new primer drop. Also can make the slide travel jumpy so a new primer spills, turns sideways or inverts.

- new primers failing to drop due to a damaged or worn tube bottom tip. These can be damaged by a spent primer being crushed back against them. Or they wear and drop a primer early. This then stops the slide travelling fully back and it returns empty Replacement tips are cheap and easy to install.

- worn, damaged or distorted primer cups and cup pins. If it can't be made to enter the shell plate hole cleanly and smoothly replace it..these are consumable parts.

- a poorly mounted press and rough press operation. If your press rocks, rolls, jumps and stutters as you operate it you will get powder jumping out of filled cases and primers jumping out of the cup, turning or inverting. It can be inadequate mounting of the press or just going too fast and rough.

- Loose or spilled powder is dirt. Check and clean your priming pin if your primers are indented. You may find a crushed grain of powder on top. And powder will bind the slide.

Finally, the last big "dirt" problem is lead shavings from your projectiles. Simply caused by not sufficiently expanding the case mouth especially for cast bullets. Lead shavings stick around, get under the shell plate causing it to bind and stutter, also the primer slide. On top of the primer pin it will indent the primer. Set your powder through expanding die up properly for zero lead shavings when a bullet is seated.

Hope this helps. I love my Dillon 550s. They love me back if I set them up well, clean and maintain them.
 

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