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Dial indicators

Hello all,

I am getting set up to start truing my own actions, and chambering my own barrels. I would like some input from those that have plenty of experience. I am interested in both the .001, and .0001 indicators with bases. From what i have heard, it is advised to spend a little less money on the .001 indicators, and spend more on the .0001 indicators. It would be convenient for me to buy them in "set" form, which would include the indicator and base in one package. I plan on running two of each. Thanks for your input in advance.

Tony.
 
These things fall under buy once, cry once. Look into Mitutoyo & Interapid, both are top quality & have many different models. My suggestion is to go to a Production Tool website or simular & see what they offer. Most of these "cutter" & tooling suppliers will also have a tech line that will cut out a lot of head scracthing. These guys know the products & will point you in the right direction once you give them your applications. Saves a lot of headaches.
 
Thanks Larry! please keep the reply's coming. If any of you have anything available, I may also be interested in buying from a member.

Tony.
 
As stated, those products are worth the money. Buy once, cry once. If on a budget, the SPI, Fowler, may serve you well. Depends on what you want to spend. I tried the cheap route, learned my lesson.
 
X Ring Accuracy said:
As stated, those products are worth the money. Buy once, cry once. If on a budget, the SPI, Fowler, may serve you well. Depends on what you want to spend. I tried the cheap route, learned my lesson.

Thanks X-ring, my plan was to go first class with the .0001" indicators for the final dial in on the actions and barrels. I would imagine I could get away with mediocre indicators for the initial .001" set up, does this make since, or am I not seeing the full picture?

Tony.
 
The best indicators in the world will not make up for experience. My suggestion is to buy the best you can afford. Start making chips. You will ruin things, tear stuff up, cry, tear more tools and material up, cry ALOT, etc, etc. You get the idea. Did I mention crying and drowning your sorrows? The final .002 you cut on a perfect threading of a tennon goes down the toilet for no known reason, you cry. Then you stare at it and the light bulb goes off. Its always human error. Experience. I was perfect from day one, I only read this somewhere and I stayed at Holiday Express. :) Good stuff. GO make some chips ! And keep us posted.
 
X Ring Accuracy said:
The best indicators in the world will not make up for experience. My suggestion is to buy the best you can afford. Start making chips. You will ruin things, tear stuff up, cry, tear more tools and material up, cry ALOT, etc, etc. You get the idea. Did I mention crying and drowning your sorrows? The final .002 you cut on a perfect threading of a tennon goes down the toilet for no known reason, you cry. Then you stare at it and the light bulb goes off. Its always human error. Experience. I was perfect from day one, I only read this somewhere and I stayed at Holiday Express. :) Good stuff. GO make some chips ! And keep us posted.
Boy, ain't that the truth? That's life work'n without a net.

JS
 
Cigarcop said:
Truing an action.....I just did my first....an AZZ PUCKERING experience deciding to finally engage that half nut and let'r rip.. :)

Boy, you guys are really building my confidence! ??? Just kidding, I have actually done three chamber and true jobs, but the gunsmith was looking over my shoulder the whole time. He lives seven hours from me, so I have decided to start doing this myself. Just in the process of gathering tool.

Cigarcop, did you chamber your first barrel also, and if so, what technique did you use to dial in the bore? I am tore between the range rod with two indicators, or the Gritters technique.

Tony.
 
Tony,

Go to Long Island Indicator Service.com and click on the dial test indicator heading.
You won't find a more honest and experienced company to deal with IMO.
 
JRS said:
Tony,

Go to Long Island Indicator Service.com and click on the dial test indicator heading.
You won't find a more honest and experienced company to deal with IMO.

Wow, nice website, very very informative. Most newbees (like myself) would have no clue where to start. This is a big help. Thanks!

Tony.
 
Preacher said:
Going into the bore when your dialing it in is better than using a range or indicator rod.
At least your not depending on the bushing fit that way...

Preacher, interesting thought. PM sent.

Tony.
 
Tony,

Regardless of which method you use, you really ought to make the trip to a dark alley in New Orleans to buy your chicken bones and rum from a one legged woman. It seems that voodoo has a large part in rifle building success. Just ask Bob Pastor.

JS
 
jscandale said:
Tony,

Regardless of which method you use, you really ought to make the trip to a dark alley in New Orleans to buy your chicken bones and rum from a one legged woman. It seems that voodoo has a large part in rifle building success. Just ask Bob Pastor.

JS

Thats some funny $hit right there! I have had several phone conversations with Bob in the last week or two, what a gentleman! I am sure appreciating the responses and phone conversations from and with other forum members, I have two builds under my belt with a veteran gunsmith looking over my shoulder, but I think I am going to really enjoy getting started on my own ;D

Tony.
 
I don't know you and will say that I'm sure you'll build a very accurate rifle. Bob is a good guy. If I can offer any any help, feel free to call me on the phone number provided on my website.

JS
 
Speaking of Range and Indicator rods.

I had a visitor today in The Lathe Cave. This Gentleman had some questions about indicating barrels. I showed him several different methods. Inside the bore, Gordy Gritters method, Range Rods and Indicator rods and deltronic pins. He already had his mind made up that indicator and range rods were junk, because if you indicate the bore in with them and then turn your tenon and thread, you can't possibly get the rods back inside in the exact same position. I fully agreed with him. He was in shock that an argument didn't get started.

I then proceeded to indicate a barrel in with an indicator rod with a snug fitting bushing. After the dial indicators stopped moving and he verified the accuracy of the position of the barrel, HE SAID, "You will never get those readings again after you take the rod out and install it again after cutting my tenon and threading."

So, I didn't remove the rod and left the indicators in place. The guy was in shock. He watched as I turned the tenon and threaded. The indicators were moving all during the process, due to side tool pressure on the tenon. After the threading was finished, the dials were dead nuts again.

The look on his face was priceless. For he finally understood that you don't have to remove the indicator rod until you are ready to either cut the cone and chamber. Using this method even if the barrel went out of concentricty, it's very easy to dial it back in, because the indicator rod and dial indicators were never removed.

Every other method requires you to remove the indicator or pins or rods.

Just remember " Any method that a craftsman uses to indicate a barrel concentric for chambering, is the Right Way, as long as he accomplishes the task accurately."


He left The Lathe Cave with a totally different perspective.

Chicken Bones are going on sale next month!
 
I love it when people under estimate me. The look on their face is priceless when they see what i can do!
 

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