Devcon Bedding

[jdemp1]

Hello All
Was wondering what Devcon product do you all favor ?
Stainless filled, Alum etc. I went to the Devcon homepage and looked at the products. Problem is the Stainless is a putty type compound, would that not be a pia to work with ? Thick etc. What supplier do u get your Devcon products from ?
Thanks JED

 

[rayjay]

Devcon 10110. I got it from Grangers but only because a buddy had an account there so when I went there I was able to use his business name and pay in cash. I hope MSC has it when I need a new batch.

 

[tightneck]

The standard plastic steel is what I use. A putty is what you want, the liquids are a PITA as the compound runs out everywhere. It can be had from Brownells as well as other supply houses.

 

[WhelenMan]

I just finished doing my first competition rifle build using the Devcon 10110. It was everything I could have asked for with a minimum of problems. I've used other bedding products in the past on sporting rifles and from this point on it will be the Devcon 10110 from what I experienced.

 

[jdemp1]

Thank you all for answering !!!
JD

 

[Travelor]

Another well satisfied customer of Devcon 10110.

I have bedded a number of rifles with this including skim bedding and it is just great. It also machines very well when cleaning up the areas around the trigger and mag wells inside the stock after the bedding hardens.

 

[Macs]

I like devcon but sometimes when I can't find it I use grey marine tex it works very well is easy to mix & very machineable. I think from my stand one is as good as the other.

 

[mameral]

What did you use as a release agent?

 

[TRECustom]

I use Birchwood Casey stock wax. Have used other waxes, but the stock wax is thin enough to allow a tight fitting bedding job, is easy to spread, and cleans up easy.

Tom

 

[mameral]

I appreciate the response. I have heard different things. I am REALLY nervous about permently gluing my rifle to my stock. How do you make the sides nice and sharp. I've read that electricians tape works for that.

 

[Bob3700]

Here are a couple of thoughts when using Devcon Aluminum epoxy.

First, many in the past use Simonize paste wax as a release agent. It is thin and provides a more intimate fit between metal and stock.

Devcon comes in two viscosities. F,putty) and F2,liquid).

For the best bedding/fit, make the initial pour with F,putty) about .250" thick. That gives you a nice solid base.

For pillars I use billet aluminum and Devcon them into the stock first.

On this initial pour, make sure that you plug any holes in the action around the trigger area with plumbers putty or similar product. Wait a full two days and let the F fully cure. In those two days the F will shrink just enough to allow you to remove the metal from the stock with relative ease.

Now, go back and sand the F surface,320 grit paper)so that the next application has something to grab on to. Mix up some F2 liquid) and place a skim coat on the bedding you just roughed up. Let that sit a full two days as well. The metal will come out of the stock with a little more effort this time but you will have the best contact between stock and metal.

The above is a recipe for success. Give it a try.

Bob

 

[mameral]

Thanks for the advice. I am actually trying it on a Remington Sendaro which has an H&S precision which uses an aluminum bedding block. I got the Devcon 10110. I was going to try it on a Savage .17 first so that if I messed up it wasn't a 800 dollar rifle that I glued together. That would be bad.

 

[Shootndig]

I have used all kids of things for release agent, most have worked. Some are definitely easier to work with however. I've been using neutral shoe polish,paste) lately and been pretty happy with it. It's thin, dry,controllable, cleans up well, you can use it on the stock where necessary, easy to find, and cheap! :thumb:
As far as glueing them together...just make sure you've got release agent everywhere the bedding might go... two coats. Then make sure you've got release agent everywhere the beddings not supposed to go, but will including screw holes, screws, threads, etc. Then you'll probably be alright. Did I mention release agent?
Spend a minute looking at the underside of your rifle before you start tho. I've had more problems with mechanical locking than actual glueing. Locking happens when you get to overzealous with the bedding compound and end up with compound squished up and around some part of the action/receiver that has a larger portion or part below it. It doesn't take much either. Recoil lugs are one of the worst offenders.

 

[Dirtball]

Have used Devcon 10110 and shoe polish many times with out a problem. I do the action and pillars all at one time. If you have not done this before you should read and probably reread this link.
Dave
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

 

[Clark]

Devcon 10110?

That is too hard to remember.
I but it from Brownells as "Steel Putty".
I like it becuase it is slow and thick.
I don't have to fight time or gravity.

I did a 243 Mauser last week with it, and if I get going, I could do another tonight.

 

[3in1hole]

Just did my first bedding job with Devcon Steel Putty. Wow, will never go back to Acraglass. You have time to work with this stuff and it doesn't run all over the place.

 

[Sighter]

I am a convert to Devcon as well. I had used Pro Bed 2000 with decent results but really like the Devcon's workability and strength.

I also sstarted using the all at once process with pillars attached to the action. Great article. What a superior way to insure alignment and proper fit! Makes you smack your head and say why didn't I think of that years ago...

 

[centershot]

I have done several rifles with Devcon Aluminum. I did the pillars with the F2 putty and then the action with the F liquid. I filled the screw holes with a product called duct seal. Very similar to modeling clay. I have had a can of Butcher's Paste Wax for 25 years. Please, put more than one coat on! I too was very afraid that the action would not come out of the stock. Sometimes to get it started, I would put bolts in the holes where the action screws would go and tapped them with a hammer to "break" it loose. I said tap, not beat the snot out of it. Tape around the upper circumference would keep the Devcon away from the sides of the action. This will act like "fingers" to keep the action from leaving the stock.

If you have a lathe and can make nice pillars with a radius to match the round action that is probably the way to go. Not everyone has a lathe.

Just remember, when you put it aside to let it cure, don't "peek". leave it alone for 24 hours.

 

[nmkid]

After much procrastinating I used Devcon 10100 and neutral shoe polish. Came out just fine. Remember to mix a little more than you think you'll need!

 

[Joe Wade]

I switched to Marine-Tex after reading the article that Speedy wrote on this web site.
The Marine-Tex is slightly thinner than Devcon and I felt it filled the voids better with smother results.