dehumidifier rod in an old frig.

[jlvandersnick]

As you all know when a certain powders or primers becomes available, you better jump on them and get some extra.. consequently I have a bunch of powder and primers that will be stored LONG term.

We had to replace our frig, so I gutted the old one to use just for storing powder and primers. I sealed up all holes to the outside so it would be pretty air tight. There are three holes, each about 2 inches square between the top and bottom compartments.

so obviousily one should make sure nothing is touching or is too close to the rod

Do any of you see anything wrong with putting one of the dehumidifier rods on the bottom and using it to store the aforementioned. Would the rod actually do any good? Should the interior be air tight relative to outside the unit?

.I tested it by putting the rod in and putting a thermometer and humid meter in each compartment for a few days and comparing readings to the outside. The test didn't seem to show much difference other than a temperature increase inside.

any experience would be appreciated.
Jerry

 

[Webster]

As you all know when a certain powders or primers becomes available, you better jump on them and get some extra.. consequently I have a bunch of powder and primers that will be stored LONG term.

We had to replace our frig, so I gutted the old one to use just for storing powder and primers. I sealed up all holes to the outside so it would be pretty air tight. There are three holes, each about 2 inches square between the top and bottom compartments.

so obviousily one should make sure nothing is touching or is too close to the rod

Do any of you see anything wrong with putting one of the dehumidifier rods on the bottom and using it to store the aforementioned. Would the rod actually do any good? Should the interior be air tight relative to outside the unit?

.I tested it by putting the rod in and putting a thermometer and humid meter in each compartment for a few days and comparing readings to the outside. The test didn't seem to show much difference other than a temperature increase inside.

any experience would be appreciated.
Jerry

You have 2 violations.
1. A tight container with strong walls
2. An electrical device in the container with the powder.

You are never supposed to store gunpowder in a tight strong container. It can lead to an explosion instead of a fire. I think there are also laws about home storage. The SAAMI website is difficult to find an article on a safe storage area. No electrical devices, even light bulbs are not supposed to be in the storage container. If there is some type of electrical fault it could ignite the powder. I don't think your supposed to store primers and powder in the same container. There is a pound of powder limit for storage.

SAAMI
Recommendations for Storage of Smokeless PowderStore in a cool, dry place. Be sure the storage area selected is free from any possible sources of excessheat and is isolated from open flame, furnaces, hot water heaters, light bulbs, etc. Do not stores mokeless powder where it will be exposed to the sun’s rays. Avoid storage in areas where mechanicalor electrical equipment is in operation. Restrict from the storage areas heat or sparks which may resultfrom improper, defective, or overloaded electrical circuits. Do not store smokeless powder in the same area with solvents, flammable gasses, or highly combustible materials. Store only in Department of Transportation approved containers. Do not transfer the smokeless powder from an approved container into one which is not approved. Do not smoke in areas where smokeless powder is stored or used. Do not subject the storage cabinets to close confinement. Storage cabinets should be constructed of insulating materials and with a weak wall, seams, or joints to provide an easy means of self-venting.

If the smokeless powder deteriorates with time it's most likely caused by not washing all of the acid out below a required value. Nitric and sulfuric acid are used to turn the cellulose into nitro-cellulose. Proper storage won't help these powders. Your supposed to open the containers once in a while, look for signs of deteriation and get rid of bad powder. I had some bad powder a long time ago, it smelled bad and contained red dust.

 

[Doom]

You need to refer to NFPA 495 Chapter 14 which is avalable for free access. You also need to understand that what you have constructed could be legally construed as a bomb by the ATF. In the event of something happening as a fire or worse there will be an investigation.

Montana may not address storage in residences directly but may address it via the building codes and insurance companies may also address this also in their policy references.

 

[F Class John]

All the above plus...

10-3.7 Smokeless propellants intended for personal use in quantities not exceeding 20 lb (9.1 kg) may be stored in original containers in residences. Quantities exceeding 20 lb (9.1 kg), but not exceeding 50 lb (22.7 kg), may be stored in residences if kept in a wooden box or cabinet having walls or at least 1-inc. (25.4-mm) nominal thickness (and there's some provision for allowing venting as stated above in the case of ignition so as to not build up pressure).

The above is from the NFPA 495 that @Doom referenced and is also on the Alliant website (and other powder companies have similar pages).

Alliant Powder - Storage & Handling

www.alliantpowder.com

On a side note, depending on the concerns there are plenty of shooters (including myself) now using desiccant packs and these kinds of devices to control humidity in their powders long term. Might be something to look into.

 

[Webster]

All the above plus...

10-3.7 Smokeless propellants intended for personal use in quantities not exceeding 20 lb (9.1 kg) may be stored in original containers in residences. Quantities exceeding 20 lb (9.1 kg), but not exceeding 50 lb (22.7 kg), may be stored in residences if kept in a wooden box or cabinet having walls or at least 1-inc. (25.4-mm) nominal thickness (and there's some provision for allowing venting as stated above in the case of ignition so as to not build up pressure).

The above is from the NFPA 495 that @Doom referenced and is also on the Alliant website (and other powder companies have similar pages).

Alliant Powder - Storage & Handling

www.alliantpowder.com

On a side note, depending on the concerns there are plenty of shooters (including myself) now using desiccant packs and these kinds of devices to control humidity in their powders long term. Might be something to look into.

Desiccant packs don't really work. I would have to look the article up again. I will try to find it. You don't know what condition they are in when you buy them. You can dry them in the oven.

Basically, a pack can only absorb about 40% of its wt. in moisture then they don't work. The real problem is you have to calculate how many packs you need based on the volume of the container and how much moisture is in the contents. Then you have to determine how often to replace the gel packs based on when they quit absorbing

Good write up.

All About Silica Gel Desiccants

Silica gel is a desiccant used worldwide with its own important characteristics that set it apart from others. Find the different types here.

www.agmcontainer.com

.

 

[ebb]

Metal box full of gunpowder = bomb Where I live is the worst in the world for having humidity issues. It goes for days with the humidity never getting under 80%. Sealing something up in a mostly air tight box is the worst thing you can do. A wood cabinet with vents, and if it is going to live in the basement a dehumidifier running close by.

 

[okie]

you must be a welder??

 

[DiffEQ]

Desiccant packs don't really work. I would have to look the article up again. I will try to find it. You don't know what condition they are in when you buy them. You can dry them in the oven.

Basically, a pack can only absorb about 40% of its wt. in moisture then they don't work.
.

I don't use silica gel because of the PITA. I get the moisture absorbers at Dollar Tree, and consume ~30 per year across my safes, powder and reloading gear. I swap them quarterly as needed and glance at them every time I'm in the safe or cabinets. They do work.

you must be a welder??

LOL, yeah, the old fridge with a 100 watt bulb in it.

 

[Kracken McGraw]

I don't use silica gel because of the PITA. I get the moisture absorbers at Dollar Tree, and consume ~30 per year across my safes, powder and reloading gear. I swap them quarterly as needed and glance at them every time I'm in the safe or cabinets. They do work.

LOL, yeah, the old fridge with a 100 watt bulb in it.

Leaving a light bulb on in a small room all the time does do some good.

 

[DiffEQ]

Leaving a light bulb on in a small room all the time does do some good.

I have a tub full of incandescent light bulbs cuz you cannot find those suckers any more. In some cases, that's all that will work.

 

[Doom]

I don't use silica gel because of the PITA. I get the moisture absorbers at Dollar Tree, and consume ~30 per year across my safes, powder and reloading gear. I swap them quarterly as needed and glance at them every time I'm in the safe or cabinets. They do work.

LOL, yeah, the old fridge with a 100 watt bulb in it.

Not a good idea, putting a salt in any gun storage area.

 

[Fast14riot]

Silica gel "crystal" cat litter works and is cheap, in large quantities.

 

[DiffEQ]

Not a good idea, putting a salt in any gun storage area.

Going on eight years doing it this way now. Doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

[L.Sherm]

By a small dehumidifier, there's one in my reloading room i bought off amazon.

 

[Jonnyofalltrades]

Going on eight years doing it this way now. Doesn't seem to be a problem.

Spill some of that slop one time. You will wish you'd never been born. Just last night I was looking at a favorite rifle that I damaged years ago when one of those evil contraptions sloshed over just a bit.
Oh yeah, and just because it looks like you got it all out of the carpet? No, it's still there.

Maybe in a powder magazine.
NEVER around firearms!

 

[Walt Krafft]

Reading this thread, there are a lot of solutions that don't really address the problem of moisture in the reloading room. Address the moisture problem rather than just trying to remove it after it arrives. It may be expensive. but your building will be better off. Moisture causes all kinds of problems beside degrading powder and primers.

 

[The German]

Powder is already in a sealed container, good for years of storage in these. Primers, I would vacuum seal for long term storage. No need for dehumidification at all.

Fridge should be fine for storage, but as pointed out a few times, no locking doors, otherwise it will act like a bomb in a fire.

 

[barefooter56]

As you all know when a certain powders or primers becomes available, you better jump on them and get some extra.. consequently I have a bunch of powder and primers that will be stored LONG term.

We had to replace our frig, so I gutted the old one to use just for storing powder and primers. I sealed up all holes to the outside so it would be pretty air tight. There are three holes, each about 2 inches square between the top and bottom compartments.

so obviousily one should make sure nothing is touching or is too close to the rod

Do any of you see anything wrong with putting one of the dehumidifier rods on the bottom and using it to store the aforementioned. Would the rod actually do any good? Should the interior be air tight relative to outside the unit?

.I tested it by putting the rod in and putting a thermometer and humid meter in each compartment for a few days and comparing readings to the outside. The test didn't seem to show much difference other than a temperature increase inside.

any experience would be appreciated.
Jerry

Be advised that drying out smokeless powders can change their burn rate= faster.

Storage of smokeless powders | How to store gunpowder | Reloading safety | Reload your own ammunition | Gun powder - Vihtavuori

Storage of smokeless powders for shooters who reload their own ammunition. Read here how to store your gunpowders safely.

www.vihtavuori.com

 

[neckturner]

On a side note, depending on the concerns there are plenty of shooters (including myself) now using desiccant packs and these kinds of devices to control humidity in their powders long term. Might be something to look into.

I use the Boveda packs. "The Cap" isn't needed, just get one of the larger Boveda's, fold it and stuff it into the powder.

Thus saving $66USD.

 

[DiffEQ]

Spill some of that slop one time. You will wish you'd never been born. Just last night I was looking at a favorite rifle that I damaged years ago when one of those evil contraptions sloshed over just a bit.
Oh yeah, and just because it looks like you got it all out of the carpet? No, it's still there.

Maybe in a powder magazine.
NEVER around firearms!

Those things are kinda hard to break. Never spilled or sloshed one. Then again, I pull them and replace if they are close to the crystal level, even if there are crystals left.